|
|
|
06-04-2008, 02:59 PM
|
#11 (permalink) | |
|
NG09: The Comeback Tour
|
Re: complete electrical failure
Their is a fuse on the interior that connects to the IOD circut. (don't recall what IOD stands for). If that fuse is blown/removed you'll remove all power to the car. Find it and check it.
__________________
NG07 T-Shirts For Sale * NG08 T-Shirts For Sale
NG08 Stuff from Cafepress Custom 12x18 poster/photo prints
 |
|
|
|
| Sponsored Links | |
Advertisement |
|
|
06-04-2008, 03:07 PM
|
#12 (permalink) | |
|
Forum user
|
Re: complete electrical failure
Quote:
__________________
Not to old to have fun - yet ??? -
2007 Dodge SRT-8 Superbee 2007 Hemi Quad Cab 4X4 2006 Harley V-Rod , 1999 S&S 1200 Sportster 2005 H/D FatBoy(Stage II),1973 BMW R75/5 restored 2004 Ducati Monster SR2,1972 BMW R75/5 restored 2004 Ford MACH I Mustang, Pro-Charger 535 RWHP 2002 Viper SRT-10,2000 Custom 883 Sportster 1992 Stealth RT TT (Stage III) 633.9 AWHP 1992 Stealth RT 1991 Stealth RT TT  and More |
|
|
|
|
|
06-04-2008, 03:28 PM
|
#13 (permalink) |
|
rock on, yeah rock on
|
Re: complete electrical failure
yep, checked all those fuses and they were good. thanks for the tip beckerb, but i think i found the issue.
i was checking continuity testing for the ground cables. good continuity between the ground point (right behind the battery) and the other end of the cable, so the cable is good. but no continuity between the ground point and the battery post itself. also, no continuity, or very little between the one end of the terminal cable and the battery post. the terminals i have are painted. obviously the paint is not a good conductor. months ago, i lost the original nut that fit up into the recessed area on the bottom side of the terminal clamp that held the screw in that held the grounding wire on. the replacement nut was just slightly too large to fit up in the recessed area, but the screw was plenty long enough to go through still, so i used it not thinking. it all worked fine, for months, until just last night apparantly. odd. it wasn't loose, it just quite i guess. anyway, i took a hammer and pounded that nut up into the recessed area. put it all back together, and good continuity all the way through, and the interior lights come on. i haven't tried to crank the engine yet, but i don't see it being a problem now :knocks on wood: thanks guys! edit: drove the car tonight. started right up. seems like it's all fixed 
__________________
Dyno Collection Thread
1993 Dodge Stealth ES, White, April 2002 - April 2005, SOLD  1 of 53 1993 Dodge Stealth TT, Black, Since April 2004, 1 of 5 ever made more rarity info 2003 Subaru Forester 2.5X, Blue, Sept. 2005, Daily Driver with 165 HP of Fury! At least it's AWD.    305 awhp, 325 awtq(BPU minus full catback exhaust)Mods at that time 13.02@104.67 (9bs, dp, fipk, 15.5 psi, bov, no cats, streetmax clutch, 1.77 60', decent conditions, full weight (even spare tire/jack) 13.09@105.08 (1.80 60', same conditions as above) Beyond BPU: (meaning upgraded turbos/fuel/etc) before engine rebuild Mods at that time 12.38@113.00(20 psi, 110 octane, massive knock above 6k rpms) 12.41@115.10(ditto) After Rebuild: Current Mods Dyno Tune by IPS 12.8@108 (12.5 psi dropping to ~11 @redline, 2.0 60', pump gas, my tune) Last edited by spfan : 06-04-2008 at 08:58 PM. |
|
|
