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#1 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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well my car used to cut off for no reason while driving so i thought it was a bad ecu. pulled the ecu and yeah the caps looked shot so i bought a rebuilt ecu from nappa auto parts. well after a few minutes of driving with the new ecu i got cel 41 ("bad injector circuit") i didnt have any codes with my old ecu but it did have bad caps. so i used my tmo data logger to shut down each injector and the engine stumbled on each one so if it is an injector im not sure which one. when i searched it mentioned some other ways to diagnose the problem but really didnt go into detail of how to do it so im pretty much stuck. i dont know if its a good code or a bad ecu. if anyone can help with some troubleshooting methods i would really appreciate it or if theres anyone who lives in the charleston sc area with a working 1st gen vr4 ecu we can use to test that would be great too.
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Engine Mods: Forged Weisco Pistons 20 over, forged shot peened rods, forged second gen crank, Clevite Bearings, 3sx light weight pulley, Vac reduction, EGR delete, Polished Plenum and valve covers, Polished spark plug cover, Blue hose dress up kit, Aluminum Dress up Kit; Turbo/Boost Mods/Tunning: Free boost mod, Blitz super sound blow off valve, Greddy Eo1 Boost controller, Greddy Emanage (Not installed yet), Greddy Full auto Turbo timer ;Shifting: 3sx short throw shifter, solid shifter bushings;Fuel: Import power fuel pump hot wire kit, relay bypass; Electrical/Ignition: Optima Battery, MSD 8.5 spark plug wires;Intake&Exhaust: Stillen downpipe, Borla Exhaust ,K&N FIPK; Meters&Gauges: Greddy Oil Preasure, Oil temp and Egt in Cianci apiller pod, A/F Gauge ashtray conversion (not installed) GTech Pro Performance meter, Laptop with Tmo datalogging; Suspension: 3Sx Front Strut Tower bar; Wheels: Pacer Rims, BF Goodrich g-force tires; Looks&Sounds: Black interior conversion, silver faced blue lit reverse glow gauges, Alpine Head unit, Alpine Amp, Alpine 6.5 Fronts, Alpine 6x9 Rears, 2 Alpine 10" Subs.Misc. Speed Bleeders, 2 way Alarm
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#4 (permalink) |
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18 year old VR4
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any luck? I have the same code on a '93 dohc base.
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-Marshall
2nd Place "Best 1st gen" category '08 NG Car Show ![]() Check out My Pics and "The Story of My Car" UPDATED 6/22/08 with engine rebuild Engine rebuild: Done! 8/07 Paint: Done! 11/07 |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Master Of Disaster
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ahem...
I'd recomend a continuity check across the 12V+ Supply, Make sure the resistor pack doesn't have a dead channel, follow that with making sure the ground side of the injector has continuity all the way to the ECU. Once that has been done, if no results, check all injectors to make sure they carry the proper resistance. You can only replace the harness for the rear injectors, not the front, as it is part of the entire EFI harness. BUT, you can buy individual injector pig tails if you had to, and replace broken clips, or replace ALOT of wiring, and build your own new front harness. If you do end up building a new harness, make sure you use TXL or SXL wire in the proper gauge.
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1992 3000GT VR-4 #15 of 24. The ORIGINAL Sandstone Gray '99 Conversion. ![]() www.3stech.org - Now with 100% less invite codes! Free Registration! |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Verified Seller
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You don't have to pull the plenum to check the injector circuits... get a wire diagram, ID the injector wires at the ECM, and test with an ohm meter.
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Because One broken Stealth just wasn't enough... I made twins.. |
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