So here shortly I am gonna replace these NGK wires that came on the car with new stock ones and have my TB rebuilt. I want to get my rear valve cover, TB, upper/lower intake and water housing polished. BUT, I live in Houston and it's always humid. It would be a lost cause because they would fade out almost instantly and most of it I wouldn't be able to get to to polish over and over. I have been told that you can take the freshly polished parts to a paint shop and have them clear coated and be done with it. Has anyone done this successfully? Anyone wanna chime in and say if this would work or might be a bad idea? If bad idea what the hell can I do to clean up these parts? Those and my CAS are the only things in the engine bay that look old. Driving me nuts!
Oh, and the stupid yellow battery. I gave up long ago finding the OEM plastic battery cover. No one kept it. I haven't seen one since I toasted my 93 Stealth back in 99. I need to build a cover plate or something.....
Shooting for almost completely stock. Smart and nearly invisible upgrades to make the ultimate GT cruiser the platform will allow.
Mods: 9:1 with Ross forged pistons, solid motor mounts ,tcase cage, solid rear diff bushings, Latitude 42 HID projector conversion, Snake-Eyes headlight controller, Renegade Tech Works full 3 stage ECS, Full interior Dynamat (the right way), Fuel pump relay bypass, Tein S-Techs, R1 Concepts cross drilled/slotted rotors, gutted pre cats, Stillen DP.
White 1992 Stealth RT/TT (Stock-ish)
White 1992 3000gt VR-4 (modded)
Red 2002 Audi TT AMLaMans edition coupe
I painted my battery LOL, the whole case was white. Used paint for plastics, just tape off the terminals and the water holes. No ill effects, and I did a bunch of research.
I would look into Zoop Seal. If you clear polished parts, and it's not perfect, the clear will turn yellow in no time.
I guess I should add... the clear will likely not stick either, if it's a truly polished part, there nothing for the clear to grab. Plus, it will likely fisheye because of the compounds used to get the mirror like shine.
Well, I guess I'm back to trying to find a way to clean this crap. I tried metal polish and then aluminum polish. It just makes it worse. Only other thing I can think of is getting them all powder coated a color that closely matches what they look like new......balls!!!
Go to a paint store. I used one called Diamond clear?! i think. Has to be applied in VERy thin coats. I did not do this, it ran, and dried with heaps of bubbles in it LOL. Its hard to see when your painting clear onto mirror! Definately is out there, wheel company's use someonthig similar on polished lips and so forth,
1993 Mitsubishi Magna
- Bored and stroked 11:1 6G74 DOHC (Now 4L)
- Ported heads
- Custom camshafts
- Titanium valvetrain
- Chrome ECU
- One off intake Manifold
- 560cc Evo Injectors/Evo MAF
- Extrators/3" exhaust
- 3000GT 1st/2nd gen brake setup
- Enkei Kojin 18x8.5's
- Rebuild FWD Box with WaveTrac LSD
- E85 Flex fuel Ready
- Evo 3 RECARO's/Ralliart Magna MOMO Steering wheel.
Ok, KBS Coating Products has Clear Diamond Finish. Says it can be used on everything including bare aluminum heads, intake and all. Says that it can handle it but says it will withstand 325f without yellowing. Says it's a single stage and you just mix and spry. Short of the turbos does anything under the hood get that hot? I thought the intake got hotter but I really have no idea at all.
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