Changing out the brakes

[ajimmyjammin]

a good impact. if that don't work, use a torch to warm them up... don't go crazy with it (cherry red) just get them real hot then put the impact on them.

[mywetdream]

some good old fasion elbow strength is needed

[Kelgalis]

Okay, thanks for the comments guys, but this really needs to get done ASAP because there's seriously virtually nothing left on the pads, and I don't have much time. I'm probably going to be heading over to this one man shop on saturday after I get off of work and doing it 'with' him, basically I'll be on the side watching mostly, but at least I'll see how everything is done and what's involved with it. The same guy did my ball joints and alignment, he does a stellar job and has very low rates.

- Kyle

[NeoValentine]

Well if they just tt pads you can pull the pins and remove the spring shield and pull the pads out, good luck expanding the Pistons but it's doable.

[Kelgalis]

Originally Posted by NeoValentine

Well if they just tt pads you can pull the pins and remove the spring shield and pull the pads out, good luck expanding the Pistons but it's doable.

the front d/s and rear p/s calipers are dragging, so I'm replacing the entire assembly along w/ new rotors and soft lines.

[993kgtSL]

just get a short pipe. worked perfect for me. if your going to change the pads might as well resurface your rotors.

[Trover4]

well if you have an air compressor that can handle the load there is a store called Harbor Freight Tools that has larger impact wrenches (some...i repeat some...are fairly well made and durable) will cost you somewhere in the $80 range for a 3/4" drive

[Furball2001]

i used a long torque wrench set to like 60 pounds. mine were frozen on as well.

Soaked in PB and kept at it with my torque wrench, eventually the bolts gave.

The rotors are seperate from the hubs, you don't have to worry about replacing the bearings.
use a rubber mallet if the front ones stick.

The rear ones are a little different, you will notice the rears have 2 threaded holes on the inner part.insert a long bolts into these holes, make sure your parking brake is disengaged, and turn the bolts slowly and evenly into the rotor. this will pop off the rear rotors, they stick because of the parking brake(drum brake shoes)

once you have the rotors off inspect the wheel bearings make sure there 100%.
Inspect your brake shoe clips, clean everything really well. inspect your parking brake shoes for wear also.

then it should take you less then an hour to reassemble. the main brake parts.

Replacing the brake lines is another story, i went through hell replacing them on a different car. soak everything in PB, and make sure you use a REALLY good flaired wrench set on them. expect it to take a long time, and be really careful to hand thread everything back together. before you clamp everything down. clean everything really good and try to dry everything up so you can see leaks easier.

Inspect the Rubber covers on the the caliper float pins make sure nothing is dry rotted or ripped. remember to re-lube the caliper float pins with disc brake grease.(high temp grease)

When you finally get the rims back on, make sure you torque them to around 100 pounds, don't use an impact wrench or over tighten the lugs.

here this when i redid my brakes: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2614351/2

[Kelgalis]

Originally Posted by Furball2001

i used a long torque wrench set to like 60 pounds. mine were frozen on as well.

Soaked in PB and kept at it with my torque wrench, eventually the bolts gave.

The rotors are seperate from the hubs, you don't have to worry about replacing the bearings.
use a rubber mallet if the front ones stick.

The rear ones are a little different, you will notice the rears have 2 threaded holes on the inner part.insert a long bolts into these holes, make sure your parking brake is disengaged, and turn the bolts slowly and evenly into the rotor. this will pop off the rear rotors, they stick because of the parking brake(drum brake shoes)

once you have the rotors off inspect the wheel bearings make sure there 100%.
Inspect your brake shoe clips, clean everything really well. inspect your parking brake shoes for wear also.

then it should take you less then an hour to reassemble. the main brake parts.

Replacing the brake lines is another story, i went through hell replacing them on a different car. soak everything in PB, and make sure you use a REALLY good flaired wrench set on them. expect it to take a long time, and be really careful to hand thread everything back together. before you clamp everything down. clean everything really good and try to dry everything up so you can see leaks easier.

Inspect the Rubber covers on the the caliper float pins make sure nothing is dry rotted or ripped. remember to re-lube the caliper float pins with disc brake grease.(high temp grease)

When you finally get the rims back on, make sure you torque them to around 100 pounds, don't use an impact wrench or over tighten the lugs.

here this when i redid my brakes: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2614351/2

As far as putting it back together, just bleed the brake lines extensively to make sure there's no air in the system?

Also, can brake squeal spray be used for the float pins?