My stock 97vr4 is also having this issue except I have sat the car for as long as an hour or so before restarting. It looks like that's still within the window for a crappy idle. Subscribed for a definite solution(s)...
cleaning IAC and changing fuel filter does nothing, if I shut it off and try to start within 15 minutes it will either not start making me wait a half hour or it will start and run like it's chocking on sausage for a minute or 2
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I got a video of mine. It died twice before I filmed it. It runs like there is no MAF plugged in and dies a couple of times. Then I try to back out of my driveway and make it a few feet and it dies on me. Then I manage to keep it running long enough to back it completely out of the driveway and it runs fine. I have a narrowband below my boost gauge on the pillar and as you can see, my O2s aren't cycling. Not even after I make it out of the driveway and it decides to run right. They aren't even showing up on the gauge unless I give it gas.
Modifications as of 3/21/13:
3.1L, 0.050" oversized pistons, forged crank, 3SX lightweight crank pulley, K&N intake, CX Racing pre turbo pipes. SS Y-pipe, SS oil feed/return lines, DNP precat deletes, test pipe, ESP downpipe, DSM SMICs, Ninja Performance boost controller set to 13 psi, vacuum reduction, 6 puck clutch, Drweldin custom spark plug cover, Depo Racing gauges, custom leather seats, and MMCdroid OBDI-Bluetooth datalogging adapter. Everything built and done by me. More to come soon.
Currently building/on the shelf:
3.01L, 0.020" oversized pistons, forged crank, NA block, 13T turbos, KYB GR-2 struts, Tein S-Tech lowering springs.
I have the same problem. With the following mods. Hotwired fuel/bypassed relay. Full vacuum reduction/ egr delete. No boost leaks. Stock injectors/ stock ecu.
If i start the car hot after about 20-45 mins I have the problem. It sounds like a misfire. If i hold the gas down a little for a min or two it clears out and runs fine. Sounds like a slightly fouled out spark plug or running on 4 cylinders.
Let me know if anyone finds a solution to this problem. Is anyone with a fully stock car experiencing these problems?
The insulate fuel rails seems to sound like a good idea to test out.
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1995 3000GT VR4l New Engine/Turbos in Progress l 1992 3000GT VR4- SOLD
That video is EXACTLY what my car is doing minus the stall. It has only done that once so far. And my car is BONE STOCK aside from a drop in K&N. If I feather the throttle it will stay lit but sounds like a missfire for a minute and then levels out to normal.....
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Had a 93 base from 97 to 2000 till it blew up. Fell in love with the platform and I will own a gen 1 RT/TT! Greatest car ever!......AND I JUST BOUGHT ONE!
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White 1992 Stealth RT/TT (Stock)
Admiral Blue 2005 Honda VTX1300c (SOLD)
Red 1997 Ford F-150 step side (Work Truck)
White 2011 Ford Crown Vic (Company Car)
It normally doesn't stall like that. I filmed it because it was stalling it did it twice before I pulled out the camera. It normally just sounds like its running on half of its cylinders.
Lunchbox, about your thoughts on cracking the fuel rail to purge any vapors. I know what you are talking about but i dont remember seeing anything like a bleeder/test port on mine.
the fuel rail is the highest pont so that's where any vapor would migrate to.
If you have a hotwired fuel pump and you allowed it to run a few minutes before restart would this move any vapor back to the tank? or would the FPR create a restriction in flow that impedes that possiblity.
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I am wondering if this is something that is caused by us pulling off all the heat shields or if its just the car thats not tuned well for the newer fuels. It seems odd that stock cars are suffering from this issue and no one can seem to figure it out. I have replaced almost everything and now I am getting a new MFI relay to see if its a low voltage issue on the ECU circuit caused by worn contacts in the main relay
Lunchbox, about your thoughts on cracking the fuel rail to purge any vapors. I know what you are talking about but i dont remember seeing anything like a bleeder/test port on mine.
the fuel rail is the highest pont so that's where any vapor would migrate to.
If you have a hotwired fuel pump and you allowed it to run a few minutes before restart would this move any vapor back to the tank? or would the FPR create a restriction in flow that impedes that possiblity.
I have a hot wired pump and I tried letting it run about 10 seconds or so before I started the car. It made no difference. I might not have done it long enough though.
No, now that I looked at my fuel rails there isn't the release, and even letting hotwired pump run I don't think would clear the rails if I understand how the regulator works, It would just build pressure and not be able to pull anymore out of the tank till the motor was running and vacuum opened the reg and sent stuff back in the return, I could be wrong.
That is a valid point about the fuel now, because mine is totally stock low mile car and it has never been opened aside from the upper intake for wires and plugs, I checked too and my intake is sealed all the way, no leaks. I bet the fuel is vaporizing at a lower temp because of the 10% mix. I am no chemist but it is a possibility, the additives have a lower thermogenic stability than gasoline....I think
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Re: cant put my finger on it
1995 3000GT VR4 
l New Engine/Turbos in Progress l 
