A/C Clutch or whole compressor? - 3000GT/Stealth International Message Center

ProwlerGT · 08-24-2007, 05:17 AM

I was doing some reading on how A/C systems work in cars and with that reading and some already known facts I've arrived at a thought that for an a/c compressor itself to go bad it would seem to me that would be a rather infrequent event because the compressor itself does not compress liquid freon.... it compresses a gas/air. It would seem my main concern for maintenance over time would be the A/C clutch itself and perhaps the bearings in the pulley wheel.

Here's what I'm getting at. Whenever I've been driving and I'm say going at least 15-20 mph or over the A/C will kick on and work fine and COLD. My problems have been when trying to kick on the A/C when at very slow speeds or mainly at idea. I have seen the A/C button light flash a couple times and the A/C not work at all and other times I've heard a really aweful noise coming from under the hood when trying to kick on the A/C as well. Turning off the A/C alleviates the noise. I am wondering if this is the clutch assembly not working properly anymore and if all I really need to replace is the clutch assembly itself. I wrote about this a while back, but it is now that I'm finally getting to it and I figured with the heat wave on lately maybe I'd get some educated responses.

Also, I've recently eliminated some shorts and other feedback/overload wiring issues where the ground was arcing with the positive connection in some areas of the car and I wonder if this would have affected the magnetic clutch on the A/C compressor??? Would that be impossible?

I would highly appreciate anyone's comments because I have another compressor to install if I need it, but I would much much much rather install just the newer clutch assembly off of the extra one I have than take down the whole A/C system if it seems to work fine to my senses when I'm rolling down the road as opposed to just idling or coasting slowly.

Mikes95RT · 08-24-2007, 05:59 AM

I have the same thing going on and finally my AC died.Before it died it was making a rattle with the AC off and it would go away when the AC came on.Then it got to where it would rattle loud after turning the AC off and I diagnosed it as the AC clutch dragging.Now the clutch doesn't engage at all and I have no AC.Before it died I had great cold AC so I doubt it's the compressor.Also the clutch is hard to find.I can buy a rebuilt compressor with the clutch for the same price at advance auto as I can buy the clutch at Mits. Also I was having a charging problem and as soon as the AC died the alt is charging like it should.It was reading low with the AC off and I figure the clutch was dragging and slowing the alt down a bit...Maybe.

ProwlerGT · 08-24-2007, 06:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mikes95RT

I have the same thing going on and finally my AC died.Before it died it was making a rattle with the AC off and it would go away when the AC came on.Then it got to where it would rattle loud after turning the AC off and I diagnosed it as the AC clutch dragging.Now the clutch doesn't engage at all and I have no AC.Before it died I had great cold AC so I doubt it's the compressor.Also the clutch is hard to find.I can buy a rebuilt compressor with the clutch for the same price at advance auto as I can buy the clutch at Mits. Also I was having a charging problem and as soon as the AC died the alt is charging like it should.It was reading low with the AC off and I figure the clutch was dragging and slowing the alt down a bit...Maybe.

Dammnn..... this low voltage charging situation (and/or car killing at times) with the A/C clutch dragging the alternator is something I had suspected on mine too and every time I have asked about that I've either gotten no response or people acting like I'm nuts. Do you think the fact that the pulley wouldn't come off of mine could mean that something weird happened to it? (IE: leak or other mechanical wear down) I put serious force on the pulley after removing the surrounding bolts and knocked it several times with a heavy rubber hammer and I got squat.

I thought a replacement compressor was in the $300 range at the autozone type stores?

I thought Mits wasn't selling the clutch kit anymore???

Mikes95RT · 08-24-2007, 06:21 AM

I was quoted $230.00 for the clutch kit..Mits and $280.00 whole compressor at Advanced.Also the AC compressors changed in 93 or 94.They are not interchangable.The early ones run on the old refridgerant and have a different bolt configuration to stop retrofitting.

tachyon_ftl · 08-24-2007, 11:25 AM

Um. Last week, I found out that the AC compressor was leaking from the shaft seal, which was the reason ( I hope) that there was no coolant in the system. I called a local foreign car place (without much hope) and to my surprise they said they had a compressor that would fit my '96. Cool. Together with a new dryer, which I had to buy to get a warranty on the compressor, it was about $525 (the dryer was $30 of that, big deal). I figured this was as good as it would get, since the price for an OEM unit on Mentor's website was about $550. (And yeah, I know Rockville has better service so I go there but the prices are the same.)

So when you buy an aftermarket unit, the piping/wiring manifold is not included. There's a rectangular blank-off plate where it goes, and you swap out the existing manifold from your compressor. OK.

The compressors, old and new, were the same outside. And the bolt pattern for the manifold matched. But inside... well, on my '96 one of the AC system sensors, on that manifold, is over an inch long. In the OEM unit, there's a little well for it inside the compressor. On the aftermarket unit... no well. So I got to take the old compressor out, take it apart, then put it back together and put it back in the car. Then take the aftermarket unit back (place took it back no problem, at least.)

So, if you're buying an aftermarket compressor, for a 2nd Gen anyway, take the manifold off and take it to the parts store, then pull that plate and make sure it fits. You might even be able to pull that manifold off with everything else still on the car, which saves a hell of a lot of aggrevation if it doesn't fit into the new compressor.

I am debating now whether to bother with it this season; I might just wait until next year. Crap... not even Labor Day, and my 2008 list is started!

Paul T

SmoothGT · 08-24-2007, 11:32 AM

im sorry im kinda lost..but did someone say you can buy a new a/c compressor (for a 3000Gt) at like autozone/advance autoparts???

TugVR4 · 08-24-2007, 01:02 PM

I just started having this issue. Driving the car it works fine, very slow speeds and idle will make the belt squeal like hell and if I let it go itll finally stop squealing and the compressor clutch just kicks on and off over and over.. I figured it was the compressor so I changed it and refilled the system. Still doing the same thing!I disconnected the white SINGLE wire that engages the clutch and it doesnt help. Any thoughts?
Tug

Mikes95RT · 08-24-2007, 03:42 PM

Mine squealed like that a few years ago and it ended up being the belt.I knew it was tight but somehow the belt was bad and it would squeal no matter how tight it was.I replaced the belt and tightened it and no squeal at idle and the AC worked at idle. It can't hurt to try.A belt is cheap enough.

Yes. You can buy a complete compressor at Advance auto.

TugVR4 · 08-27-2007, 07:53 AM

I have a new belt I just put on and trying different tension is a no go. It acts like the compressor is locking up or dragging...?

ProwlerGT · 04-02-2008, 11:24 PM

Just wanted to follow up on this somewhat old thread. If others have managed to get their clutch off while the compressor is still hooked up I'd REALLY SERIOUSLY like to know how you did it. I just got to doing mine yesterday and it would not budge for ANYTHING. I had the 2 jaw puller which you can BARELY BARELY get in there and all it did was bend the lip of the pulley in both spots.

See post #293 in my revival thread:
ProwlerGT's 3000GT Revival Thread - Start Up

The armature plate for some reason is dragging the pulley ONLY when the armature plate bulk metal portion with the pivoting sliding lil arms in it is at the BOTTOM of its rotation. I will know in a few days if my "clean-up" method (see post 293 in above thread) worked at all to free up this binding point since I could not remove the pulley.

08-24-2007, 06:21 AM	#4 (permalink)
Mikes95RT Foolish Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Rock Hill S.C. Trader Rating: (5)	Re: A/C Clutch or whole compressor? I was quoted $230.00 for the clutch kit..Mits and $280.00 whole compressor at Advanced.Also the AC compressors changed in 93 or 94.They are not interchangable.The early ones run on the old refridgerant and have a different bolt configuration to stop retrofitting.

08-24-2007, 11:25 AM	#5 (permalink)
tachyon_ftl '96 VR4 Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Hollis, NH Drives: It's spos'd to move? Trader Rating: (12)	Re: A/C Clutch or whole compressor? Um. Last week, I found out that the AC compressor was leaking from the shaft seal, which was the reason ( I hope) that there was no coolant in the system. I called a local foreign car place (without much hope) and to my surprise they said they had a compressor that would fit my '96. Cool. Together with a new dryer, which I had to buy to get a warranty on the compressor, it was about $525 (the dryer was $30 of that, big deal). I figured this was as good as it would get, since the price for an OEM unit on Mentor's website was about $550. (And yeah, I know Rockville has better service so I go there but the prices are the same.) So when you buy an aftermarket unit, the piping/wiring manifold is not included. There's a rectangular blank-off plate where it goes, and you swap out the existing manifold from your compressor. OK. The compressors, old and new, were the same outside. And the bolt pattern for the manifold matched. But inside... well, on my '96 one of the AC system sensors, on that manifold, is over an inch long. In the OEM unit, there's a little well for it inside the compressor. On the aftermarket unit... no well. So I got to take the old compressor out, take it apart, then put it back together and put it back in the car. Then take the aftermarket unit back (place took it back no problem, at least.) So, if you're buying an aftermarket compressor, for a 2nd Gen anyway, take the manifold off and take it to the parts store, then pull that plate and make sure it fits. You might even be able to pull that manifold off with everything else still on the car, which saves a hell of a lot of aggrevation if it doesn't fit into the new compressor. I am debating now whether to bother with it this season; I might just wait until next year. Crap... not even Labor Day, and my 2008 list is started! Paul T

08-24-2007, 11:32 AM	#6 (permalink)
SmoothGT Forum Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Florida Drives: 94 3000gt sl Trader Rating: (0)	Re: A/C Clutch or whole compressor? im sorry im kinda lost..but did someone say you can buy a new a/c compressor (for a 3000Gt) at like autozone/advance autoparts???

08-24-2007, 01:02 PM	#7 (permalink)
TugVR4 Forum Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Elmira, N.Y. Drives: 96 3000gt SL,93vr4,9 Trader Rating: (13)	Re: A/C Clutch or whole compressor? I just started having this issue. Driving the car it works fine, very slow speeds and idle will make the belt squeal like hell and if I let it go itll finally stop squealing and the compressor clutch just kicks on and off over and over.. I figured it was the compressor so I changed it and refilled the system. Still doing the same thing!I disconnected the white SINGLE wire that engages the clutch and it doesnt help. Any thoughts? Tug __________________ Red 93/99 vr4 11.2@130mph

08-24-2007, 03:42 PM	#8 (permalink)
Mikes95RT Foolish Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Rock Hill S.C. Trader Rating: (5)	Re: A/C Clutch or whole compressor? Mine squealed like that a few years ago and it ended up being the belt.I knew it was tight but somehow the belt was bad and it would squeal no matter how tight it was.I replaced the belt and tightened it and no squeal at idle and the AC worked at idle. It can't hurt to try.A belt is cheap enough. Yes. You can buy a complete compressor at Advance auto.

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08-27-2007, 07:53 AM	#9 (permalink)
TugVR4 Forum Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Elmira, N.Y. Drives: 96 3000gt SL,93vr4,9 Trader Rating: (13)	Re: A/C Clutch or whole compressor? I have a new belt I just put on and trying different tension is a no go. It acts like the compressor is locking up or dragging...?

04-02-2008, 11:24 PM	#10 (permalink)
ProwlerGT King Detail Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: New Orleans area Drives: 95 3000GT Base DOHC Trader Rating: (11)	Re: A/C Clutch or whole compressor? Just wanted to follow up on this somewhat old thread. If others have managed to get their clutch off while the compressor is still hooked up I'd REALLY SERIOUSLY like to know how you did it. I just got to doing mine yesterday and it would not budge for ANYTHING. I had the 2 jaw puller which you can BARELY BARELY get in there and all it did was bend the lip of the pulley in both spots. See post #293 in my revival thread: ProwlerGT's 3000GT Revival Thread - Start Up The armature plate for some reason is dragging the pulley ONLY when the armature plate bulk metal portion with the pivoting sliding lil arms in it is at the BOTTOM of its rotation. I will know in a few days if my "clean-up" method (see post 293 in above thread) worked at all to free up this binding point since I could not remove the pulley.