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#1 (permalink) |
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2 + 2 is CHICKEN!
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Yesterday I finally got around to turning my extremely warped rotors. I cleaned off all the caliper pins, lubed them, and cleaned/sprayed the back of the pads with that pad quiet stuff. Now I see two issues:
1 - The pass. rear outside pad is only making contact on about a 1/4" of the center of the rotor. The pads slide on the pins very easily, no grooves worn into the sides of the caliper where the pads touch(Driver-rear had grooves from the pads, but is contacting fine). Bad caliper? Need bleeding maybe? Related to front pads having about 90% wear? 2 - I made a hard stop from about 80 to 20, my front rotors turned redish/bluish (heat scorching). How bad/dangerous is that? Thanks to anyone with some experience here.
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#2 (permalink) |
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Paid Member
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I would suggest replacing your pads if they have 10% left
But if those are the fronts they shouldn't have anything to do with your rears. Wait a little while and see if the pad seats into the "unwarped" rotors better. If you had warped rotors with the pads there is a possibility they were just wearing funny because of that. As far as the 80 - 20 stops, I have the same problem, but I think it is because I am using crappy rotors/pads. Oreilly brand to be exact. It is just getting very hot and its not so much "dangerous" as it can glaze your pads/rotors, so it could become a "glass on glass" braking scenario. Glass on Glass doesn't stop very well. Basically when that happens you are probably going to experience a lot of brake fade, but as long as that is not your normal stop and you do that very rarely, you'll be ok. What pads/rotor combination are you using? Hope this helps! -Steven
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Dec. 2001
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Quote:
Pretty much summed it up there. Assuming that the caliper is fully functioning, the warped rotor would most likely have caused it. Like stated above the pad/rotor combo you are using could be an issue as well. They came with ceramic rear pads from factory. A big mistake people make is thinking that they have to brake hard to break the pads in.
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![]() 1991 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin Turbo MODS|ATR Downpipe|HKS Super Dragger|DN Pre Cat Elims|AEM WB02 Gauge|Ek2mfg Fuel Rail Loop|Polished Fuel Rail|Wrinkle Black Intake Mani|Mirror Red Valve Cover|Injector Harness Cover|Ohio Bob Short Throw Shifter|DN Intake Pipes|Palm Datalogger|TD04L 15G Turbos|EGR Block Off Plates|Vac Reduction|Evap Delete|Cruise Control Delete|A/C Delete|Battery Relocated|E2kmfg Poly Mounts|PTE 680 Injectors|Hotwired Walbro 255lph FP|Snow Performance Water/Meth Injection|Tein Coilovers|18x9 Saleen Replicas| 265/35/18 Sumitomo HTR II|New Shortblock|Rebuilt Heads|IPS FMIC|RPS Max Street|AEM EMS|AEM IAT|AEM 3.5 BAR| Next Up: Tuning AEM 1994 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin Turbo Under Construction |
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#4 (permalink) |
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2 + 2 is CHICKEN!
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Not sure of what brand/quality is on there currently, it's just what was on there when I bought the car. Pretty sure they're ceramics on oem rotors though, I never have any brake dust on my rims.
But I just wanted to make sure the scorching wasn't a sign that the rotor might fail or something. I can defintely feel the brake fade though, that 80 to 20 stop didn't feel good at all. I'll be putting pads on it soon, I was just bored at work and decided to do some free maintanance. Thanks for the tips. |
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