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#1 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Time to rip out the block again, and While ive got it out, im gonna upgrade the turbos. I was originally thinking 13G's, but I found a pair of 13C's for sale..... not sure which to go with, or what the major differences are. I was told the 13C's were a little bigger than 13G's....... is that true? Any preferences....???
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#4 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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13g or 13c What is the difference?
It is 2008 though so I don't even feel anyone should be using 13c's or g's, might aswell get 13t's which will outperform both the c's and g's by a good bit and they are cheap too. A 3s pushing 350-375 whp is nice but 400-440 is that much nicer especially when the cost is not that much. New 13g's run 1300, converted 13t's run 900-1200 for the set. You go figure out how much you want to roll around with.
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His - Red 93 RT/tt
Mods: Hallman's MBC @ 16 psi, turbo XS type H BOV, stillen dp, custom exhaust, Spec stage 2 clutch, RPS FW, 3sx lightweight crank pulley, BCP7RES-11 @ .030 gap, autometer gauges, slightly gutted mas, dsm SMIC's, ACPT 1 piece CFDS, Tein S springs, pte 580 inj's, safc neo/SITC, 13t's, hotwired walbro, maximal performance solid motor mounts, DR plenum spacer. Hers - BPU Green 94 vr4 |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Your only regret is that you could have gotten so much more for just 500.
Do everything else in anticipation of the turbo (clutch, fuel, IC, etc). Then get the turbos in. 13g's are a nice turbo but when the 13t guy next to you is making on pump gas what your 13g setup makes maxxed out that 500 doesn't look so bad then does it. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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3/S enthusiast
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You can use the stock fuel system, but you most likely will not be able to get the max potential out of the turbos. The stock fuel system will not even support maxing out the 9b's so it's all a matter of how far you want to go.
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![]() ![]() Mods ------------------------- 1991 Mitsubishi 3000gt VR4---------------My website If you live in the Delaware, Maryland, or Virginia area check out our website and 3si chapter forum |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Yank in Yorkshire
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flow map comparison (thread reference, wiki reference):
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Jim Matthews - Yorkshire, England, UKTeam3S, 3SI #30, GTOUK #155 http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.html Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd Active Suspension Damping, Ek2MFG dual-flex downpipe, Zorstec custom SS cat-back dual A'PEXi Super AVC-R Mk-I, MHI TD04L-13Gs, K&N FIPK, IPS SS Y-pipe A'PEXi Super AFC 5-knob, 450cc Black Tops, MirageCorp Logger Mobil 1 & Redline fluids, Hotwired Denso 1020 Pump, IPO/SX AFPR SCE 332x32/322x28 cryoed StopTechs, Wilwood proportioning valves Winter: stock alloys 17x8.5-46, Hankook Icebear W300 235/45VR17 Summer: Enkei RPM2 17x9-40, Yokohama AVS ES100 245/45ZR17 Track: Enkei RPM2 17x9-40, Yokohama A-032R Hcomp 275/40R17 My reliable daily driver since Feb 1997! ![]() |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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13C's only flow 20 cfm/ea more than 13G's. If they're in GOOD condition - I'd go with those simply because it's such a good price. They're very compareable turbos to eachother, and you can expect to put out similar numbers with both of them. /end thread
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On the car:
- Titan Bending TD05 Headers / O2 Housings (8/19/2006) - TD05 E16G's Braided feeds/returns (03/04/2007) - DSM SMIC's - Precision Turbo 680 CC Injectors - E2K Fuel Loop - E-Manage Blue w/ ignition Harness - Custom 3'' exhaust from turbos back (T-Pros DP) - Magnacore Wires - 3SX Braided break lines, Carbotech Vented and Slotted Rotors, and Hawk Pads - SBC-iD III Boost Controller - K&N FIPK - Ebay Y-pipe (shinny) - GTO MR Gears / 5 spd rear end (Installed 07/18/2005) - RPS Max Street Disc - 120K and Rod/Main Bearings (Finished 12/16/2005) - Walbro 255 lph f/p 13C Turbo Track Times (stock fuel): -13.2 @ 104, 1.86 60' (10.5 PSI - Took out jack/spare/rear and pass seats) -12.9 @ 106, 1.84 60' (12.3 PSI - slipping clutch, small boost leak, FULL INTERIOR) |
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