Ricky, I'm posting this information. It should be shared.
Hey Jeremy,
It turns out that the factory wiring for the starter solenoid just
barely meets the amperage draw requirements for the starter to engage.
Even worse, the powersource comes from the actual ignition wiring. Over
time, the connections corrode and the starter solenoid, as it ages,
requires more amperage in order to engage the starter. The factory
wiring is simply not up to par. You might notice that turning off the
AC, stereo, radar detector, etc will sometimes help it start without
clicking, this is because basically all the electronics in the car are
fed through a very small connection from the battery. A turbo timer, if
you have one, also draws its juice from the same line as the starter
solenoid.
If you want more in depth info on the problem, I can go into further
detail, but here is the fix.
Have you ever worked with a relay? Basically, a relay uses the
slightest amount of power to flip a switch inside itself and allow power
from another source to feed a device. There are two wires that run to
your starter, the big battery cable which actually powers the starter
and a small 12 gauge wire that is supposed to power the solenoid which
feeds from the ignition switch inside the car. The fix is relatively
simply if you understand how to hook up a relay. If you do not, let me
know and I will walk you through it.
Using a 30 amp or 40 amp relay (which can be purchased at just about any
parts store) you want to use the factory starter solenoid wire as the
trip wire for the relay. Cut the small wire going to the starter which
can be found under the MAS. Connect the end coming from the ignition to
Pin 85 and simply ground 86. Than run 10 gauge directly from your
batter to Pin 30. Connect the old starter wire (the end that runs to
the starter solenoid) to Pin 87. That is basically it.
What this does:
The factory ignition wire tends to send a very weak signal, not enough
to actually fire the starter, and hence the click click click. A relay
however needs simply milliamps to engage which the factory wiring is
sufficient to supply, this in turns, directs current directly from the
battery, an ample amount of power, directly to the starter solenoid and
makes the starter fire right up.
I hope this has made sense, I am in a hurry right now, so if you need
any clarification or would like walk through help, feel free to call me
anytime today till 8pm at *snip* (My work, I will be answering) or
after 8 at *snip*. Or email me here.
This is a 100% fix.
Please do not post this information, I had no intentions on even sharing
this as I have issues with the board and the board has issues with me,
but I am willing to help out on a person to person basis.
Good luck,
-Ricky
EDIT-
Here is a detailed link with pictures, compliments of Erik Gross:
1995 3000GT VR-4: Click-Start Fix
100% Guaranteed 'Click, Click, Start" Fix Part 2
Re: 100% Guaranteed 'Click, Click, Start" Fix Part 2
