<?xml version="1.0" encoding="ISO-8859-1"?>

<rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/">
	<channel>
		<title>3000GT/Stealth International Message Center - Engine - Turbo</title>
		<link>http://www.3si.org/forum</link>
		<description />
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 22:29:39 GMT</lastBuildDate>
		<generator>vBulletin</generator>
		<ttl>60</ttl>
		<image>
			<url>http://www.3si.org/forum/images/misc/rss.jpg</url>
			<title>3000GT/Stealth International Message Center - Engine - Turbo</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum</link>
		</image>
		<item>
			<title>engine ticking</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/engine-ticking-479687/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:54:50 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[First off, let me say that this is NOT a rod bearing issue. I've heard rod knock. This isn't it. :o

I'm running Rotella 20-50 oil. I have the stock boost solenoid deleted (some people say it ticks). 1991 engine with original, small-hole lifters.

When I start the car up in a cold morning, the valvetrain clicks around for a while until it's warm. Then it usually goes away. However, when I start driving the car, I notice that around 1500-3000rpm, if I am using MODERATE throttle, I can hear ticking from the engine bay/firewall. Under no throttle or heavy throttle, I don't hear it at all. This is very repeatable; I can be cruising, and make the sound start at a very particular amount of low throttle, and make it dissappear by either letting off the throttle or giving it more throttle.

I suspect it might be that I'm just running really thick oil and that's what happens. It's the way that the sound only occurs during light throttle that confuses me.

Any ideas? Is there another solenoid or something that could be ticking?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>First off, let me say that this is NOT a rod bearing issue. I've heard rod knock. This isn't it. :o<br />
<br />
I'm running Rotella 20-50 oil. I have the stock boost solenoid deleted (some people say it ticks). 1991 engine with original, small-hole lifters.<br />
<br />
When I start the car up in a cold morning, the valvetrain clicks around for a while until it's warm. Then it usually goes away. However, when I start driving the car, I notice that around 1500-3000rpm, if I am using MODERATE throttle, I can hear ticking from the engine bay/firewall. Under no throttle or heavy throttle, I don't hear it at all. This is very repeatable; I can be cruising, and make the sound start at a very particular amount of low throttle, and make it dissappear by either letting off the throttle or giving it more throttle.<br />
<br />
I suspect it might be that I'm just running really thick oil and that's what happens. It's the way that the sound only occurs during light throttle that confuses me.<br />
<br />
Any ideas? Is there another solenoid or something that could be ticking?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>slo6</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/engine-ticking-479687/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>91 Stealth RT TT NEED MECHANIC HELP Metro Detroit Area</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/91-stealth-rt-tt-need-mechanic-help-metro-detroit-area-479677/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:23:17 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have a 91 RT TT with 75k miles on it.  I need to find someone in the area to help me out with doing the 60k maintence.  I have also broken the 2nd gear syncro and need some help with who/where to take it.

Thanks,
Mike</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a 91 RT TT with 75k miles on it.  I need to find someone in the area to help me out with doing the 60k maintence.  I have also broken the 2nd gear syncro and need some help with who/where to take it.<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
Mike</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>mas8987</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/91-stealth-rt-tt-need-mechanic-help-metro-detroit-area-479677/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>19T owners share your setup!</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/19t-owners-share-your-setup-479620/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 03:43:10 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[hey guys,

in light of this recent excellent deal on 19t's...i'm sure theres going to be a lot more of them around. thought this would be a good thread to start so we can all help each other out with different 19T setups...
lets hear what you've got! are you running a stock bottom end? stock heads? how much power is possible on the stock pistons and rods? interested in the power outputs you guys are making with these turbos tooo....]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>hey guys,<br />
<br />
in light of this recent excellent deal on 19t's...i'm sure theres going to be a lot more of them around. thought this would be a good thread to start so we can all help each other out with different 19T setups...<br />
lets hear what you've got! are you running a stock bottom end? stock heads? how much power is possible on the stock pistons and rods? interested in the power outputs you guys are making with these turbos tooo....</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>mitchoreed</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/19t-owners-share-your-setup-479620/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Heads- Cam Caps need help</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/heads-cam-caps-need-help-479599/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 23:23:00 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I was told that our cam caps are heads specific correct? My heads were detroyed, so I bought a used set of heads from another member on this board and he didnt send me the cam caps. Is there anyway I can use the cam caps from my old set of heads? Or do I have to have them cross drilled to fit the new set? How is this proccess done and is it expensive for a machine shop to do?

thanks,
Lance</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I was told that our cam caps are heads specific correct? My heads were detroyed, so I bought a used set of heads from another member on this board and he didnt send me the cam caps. Is there anyway I can use the cam caps from my old set of heads? Or do I have to have them cross drilled to fit the new set? How is this proccess done and is it expensive for a machine shop to do?<br />
<br />
thanks,<br />
Lance</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>AmpLid</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/heads-cam-caps-need-help-479599/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Clutch break-in AND new motor break in?</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/clutch-break-new-motor-break-479597/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 22:11:30 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[My recent engine rebuild is done and the engine is in the car; I had to pull my tranny and replace my clutch with a brand new one.

I still need to finish breaking in my engine, but I also want to properly break-in my clutch.  Would it be okay to get into say, 3rd gear nice and slow, then once in 3rd, do a good hard pull and then slow back down, and do it a few more times?  That way, I'm not shifting hard on the clutch and I can still break my motor in.

Does this make sense?  Any help is appreciated.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>My recent engine rebuild is done and the engine is in the car; I had to pull my tranny and replace my clutch with a brand new one.<br />
<br />
I still need to finish breaking in my engine, but I also want to properly break-in my clutch.  Would it be okay to get into say, 3rd gear nice and slow, then once in 3rd, do a good hard pull and then slow back down, and do it a few more times?  That way, I'm not shifting hard on the clutch and I can still break my motor in.<br />
<br />
Does this make sense?  Any help is appreciated.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>deviantlinux</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/clutch-break-new-motor-break-479597/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>greddy profec b ll question....help asap</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/greddy-profec-b-ll-question-help-asap-479594/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 21:25:28 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>i might buy a profec spec 2 unit for around 50 bucks.....it is the display only...no solenoid. how much is it gonna cost for me to get the rest of the parts to make it work? is this a good deal for the dispaly unit?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>i might buy a profec spec 2 unit for around 50 bucks.....it is the display only...no solenoid. how much is it gonna cost for me to get the rest of the parts to make it work? is this a good deal for the dispaly unit?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>Lou3000gt</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/greddy-profec-b-ll-question-help-asap-479594/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Engine mounts</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/engine-mounts-479591/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 21:14:06 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi folks,
Just a quick question about the interchangeability of OEM engine mounts.
I'm replacing mine and have bought a set from IPS, which were listed as being for all models, 91-99. I noticed when they arrived that the front (t-belt side) mount was aluminum rather than steel, and didn't have the damper block that my existing one had. I didn't think too much of it at the time, and just figured it was a new superseding part.

Having recently done a check with CAPS, it looks like there are three different part numbers for that engine mount, and none of them seem to supersede to the others.
My car has a build date of Feb '91, and lists MB581692 as the correct mount.
From June '91, CAPS shows MB892448 - I'm not sure how this differs from the previous one, but I assume it is still steel.
From '94 on, the PN listed is MB870005. This part is the aluminium mount that I have.
I notice that 3SX have two different mounts listed, depending on year. I'm not sure what PN their 1st Gen one is.

Can anyone tell me if these parts are indeed interchangeable, or if I should swap the mount I have for the correct one as listed by Mitsi?
My preference is not to swap it - as I'd have to pay air freight to the US and back (I'm in New Zealand) to get the correct part. But I don't want to end up regretting my decision!

The Stealth Technical Manual has this to say (regarding the 1st gen mount):
"DOHC models have a dynamic damper on the top of the engine mount to cut out high frequency noise."
If I go ahead and use the Aluminum one will it be at the expense of increased engine noise? What did they change with the '94+ models to allow the use of the aluminum mount without a damper?

If anyone can provide some insight on this, that'd be great!

Kind regards,
Kenneth Wells
'91 GTO TT < currently undergoing full engine rebuild - but it's taking me a while!]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi folks,<br />
Just a quick question about the interchangeability of OEM engine mounts.<br />
I'm replacing mine and have bought a set from IPS, which were listed as being for all models, 91-99. I noticed when they arrived that the front (t-belt side) mount was aluminum rather than steel, and didn't have the damper block that my existing one had. I didn't think too much of it at the time, and just figured it was a new superseding part.<br />
<br />
Having recently done a check with CAPS, it looks like there are three different part numbers for that engine mount, and none of them seem to supersede to the others.<br />
My car has a build date of Feb '91, and lists MB581692 as the correct mount.<br />
From June '91, CAPS shows MB892448 - I'm not sure how this differs from the previous one, but I assume it is still steel.<br />
From '94 on, the PN listed is MB870005. This part is the aluminium mount that I have.<br />
I notice that 3SX have two different mounts listed, depending on year. I'm not sure what PN their 1st Gen one is.<br />
<br />
Can anyone tell me if these parts are indeed interchangeable, or if I should swap the mount I have for the correct one as listed by Mitsi?<br />
My preference is not to swap it - as I'd have to pay air freight to the US and back (I'm in New Zealand) to get the correct part. But I don't want to end up regretting my decision!<br />
<br />
The Stealth Technical Manual has this to say (regarding the 1st gen mount):<br />
"DOHC models have a dynamic damper on the top of the engine mount to cut out high frequency noise."<br />
If I go ahead and use the Aluminum one will it be at the expense of increased engine noise? What did they change with the '94+ models to allow the use of the aluminum mount without a damper?<br />
<br />
If anyone can provide some insight on this, that'd be great!<br />
<br />
Kind regards,<br />
Kenneth Wells<br />
'91 GTO TT < currently undergoing full engine rebuild - but it's taking me a while!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>NZgto-tt</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/engine-mounts-479591/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Installing Joe P Pro-Z TT</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/installing-joe-p-pro-z-tt-479529/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 01:15:10 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I am installing my Joe P MBC that is made for tt cars, and had a few questions.  If I delete my stock boost solenoid what do I do with vac line  (has white dashes) from the top of the boost solenoid that runs to the rear turbo.  My second question is I know most people run the vac line from the y-pipe to the MBC, but I had read of someone using a different vac line such as one after the throttle body to his MBC and found that his turbo's spooled up a lot faster. I believe he put a T into the vac line that was running to his BOV and then ran it to his MBC is this a better boost source??]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I am installing my Joe P MBC that is made for tt cars, and had a few questions.  If I delete my stock boost solenoid what do I do with vac line  (has white dashes) from the top of the boost solenoid that runs to the rear turbo.  My second question is I know most people run the vac line from the y-pipe to the MBC, but I had read of someone using a different vac line such as one after the throttle body to his MBC and found that his turbo's spooled up a lot faster. I believe he put a T into the vac line that was running to his BOV and then ran it to his MBC is this a better boost source??</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>Brsmustng93</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/installing-joe-p-pro-z-tt-479529/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Hey guys please help</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/hey-guys-please-help-479522/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:40:42 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hey guys,
i would like to know where the thermostat, the temperature sending unit, and the fan switch are located, i cant seem to find them.
right now im having problems, the fans dont turn on, and my temperature gauge does not register.
any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks alot.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hey guys,<br />
i would like to know where the thermostat, the temperature sending unit, and the fan switch are located, i cant seem to find them.<br />
right now im having problems, the fans dont turn on, and my temperature gauge does not register.<br />
any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks alot.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>RO.</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/hey-guys-please-help-479522/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>What is stock oil press supposed to be?</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/what-stock-oil-press-supposed-479504/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 21:01:15 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Details to follow. Basically my cars been at the dealership over 2 months for smoking stock turbo. Replaced it with a rebuilt pair of dr650Rs. It was still smoking from the front turbo. So  I had Re-rebuilt the front dr650 by a very reputable turbo guy all brand new parts shipped direct from England. Took it to the dealership they reinstalled and say its still smoking. It is possible I guess maybe they didnt run it long enough to get the residual oil puddle out of the exhaust pipes, I hear it takes a couple weeks to burn out under normal driving.

The Turbo guy is reinspecting  his work now. He swears he doesnt make mistakes, as he runs it up on a machine and inspects for leaks with a special violet oil and a blacklight, tests for boost pressure, balance, clearance issues , and spoolup before it leaves the shop. He seems to think the dealership are idiots and didnt prime the turbo with oil.

 After 3 smoking turbos I think maybe it is an oil pressure problem or restriction downstream causing blow by into my exhaust. The dealership guys aren't much help with troubleshooting. They always blame it on me having aftermarket equipment.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Details to follow. Basically my cars been at the dealership over 2 months for smoking stock turbo. Replaced it with a rebuilt pair of dr650Rs. It was still smoking from the front turbo. So  I had Re-rebuilt the front dr650 by a very reputable turbo guy all brand new parts shipped direct from England. Took it to the dealership they reinstalled and say its still smoking. It is possible I guess maybe they didnt run it long enough to get the residual oil puddle out of the exhaust pipes, I hear it takes a couple weeks to burn out under normal driving.<br />
<br />
The Turbo guy is reinspecting  his work now. He swears he doesnt make mistakes, as he runs it up on a machine and inspects for leaks with a special violet oil and a blacklight, tests for boost pressure, balance, clearance issues , and spoolup before it leaves the shop. He seems to think the dealership are idiots and didnt prime the turbo with oil.<br />
<br />
 After 3 smoking turbos I think maybe it is an oil pressure problem or restriction downstream causing blow by into my exhaust. The dealership guys aren't much help with troubleshooting. They always blame it on me having aftermarket equipment.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>DC 95VR-4</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/what-stock-oil-press-supposed-479504/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>nitrous</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/nitrous-479471/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 14:04:06 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[thinking of getting and running a wet setup anypro's and cons....
what do i need special to run on my car?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>thinking of getting and running a wet setup anypro's and cons....<br />
what do i need special to run on my car?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>billbrown72</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/nitrous-479471/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>How To Tell 2 or 4 Bolt (Without removing oil pan)?</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/how-tell-2-4-bolt-without-removing-oil-pan-479448/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 04:22:09 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[What sort of pictures could I provide to tell this?  This is not the original engine in my 92 TT and from what I gathered when it was replaced, it was from a newer car, but I would like to be sure.

I guess as a last option, I could remove the oil pan and inspect, but I'm asking for other options first.  

Thanks.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>What sort of pictures could I provide to tell this?  This is not the original engine in my 92 TT and from what I gathered when it was replaced, it was from a newer car, but I would like to be sure.<br />
<br />
I guess as a last option, I could remove the oil pan and inspect, but I'm asking for other options first.  <br />
<br />
Thanks.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>BOOSTD</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/how-tell-2-4-bolt-without-removing-oil-pan-479448/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Prosport Peak and hold...</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/prosport-peak-hold-479426/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:15:46 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[When I pick up my new VR4 and garage it:p, I will basically be replacing the stock center gauges as my first mod. I was wondering if anyone who uses the prosport peak and hold gauges could tell me what they think about them. I honestly don't care if anyone who uses different gauges chimes in... I want some reliable gauges that have gotten some good reviews from other members. I'm not about to remove the dash and install some POS gauges that I will just have to replace.

Also, 52mm fit a lot better than 60mm in our stock center location, correct?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>When I pick up my new VR4 and garage it:p, I will basically be replacing the stock center gauges as my first mod. I was wondering if anyone who uses the prosport peak and hold gauges could tell me what they think about them. I honestly don't care if anyone who uses different gauges chimes in... I want some reliable gauges that have gotten some good reviews from other members. I'm not about to remove the dash and install some POS gauges that I will just have to replace.<br />
<br />
Also, 52mm fit a lot better than 60mm in our stock center location, correct?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>x2xtreme360</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/prosport-peak-hold-479426/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Just installed Rear turbo, it's smoking (I've searched)]]></title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/just-installed-rear-turbo-its-smoking-ive-searched-479417/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 22:18:04 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hey guys, so I just finished up putting my my newly rebuilt tranny, and also a newer rear turbo that I bought off a forum member.  It's a stock 9B, had little if no shaft play in it.  So I primed the rear turbo (took out the ECI fuse, and turned the car over 2 times at about 7-10sec intervals.  After that I started it, and with in probably 3-4 minutes I am getting a decent amount of smoke coming up from the turbo under the hood.  It seems to be coming from all around the turbo, honestly I can't get my head close enough to see exactly, but I there's no oil or coolant under the car from the feed and return lines.  I guess what I'm asking is this common with a turbo that has set for a while?  So I let it idle longer (I let it idle for about 5min, then saw smoke so shut it off).  What do you guys think??  Thanks.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hey guys, so I just finished up putting my my newly rebuilt tranny, and also a newer rear turbo that I bought off a forum member.  It's a stock 9B, had little if no shaft play in it.  So I primed the rear turbo (took out the ECI fuse, and turned the car over 2 times at about 7-10sec intervals.  After that I started it, and with in probably 3-4 minutes I am getting a decent amount of smoke coming up from the turbo under the hood.  It seems to be coming from all around the turbo, honestly I can't get my head close enough to see exactly, but I there's no oil or coolant under the car from the feed and return lines.  I guess what I'm asking is this common with a turbo that has set for a while?  So I let it idle longer (I let it idle for about 5min, then saw smoke so shut it off).  What do you guys think??  Thanks.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>94PearlwhiteTT</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/just-installed-rear-turbo-its-smoking-ive-searched-479417/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Boost gauge hook up question</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/boost-gauge-hook-up-question-479377/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 08:45:10 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have a boost controller installed. Since my boost controller already has a vacuum line running inside the car, is it ok to add in another "T" to that same line? 

Or, do I need a seperate vac line from someplace else?

I suppose it would work, but would it be a lot less accurate if that stock vac line is split off twice? (4 times total, really)

Thanks!:mitsu:]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a boost controller installed. Since my boost controller already has a vacuum line running inside the car, is it ok to add in another "T" to that same line? <br />
<br />
Or, do I need a seperate vac line from someplace else?<br />
<br />
I suppose it would work, but would it be a lot less accurate if that stock vac line is split off twice? (4 times total, really)<br />
<br />
Thanks!:mitsu:</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>Superfast3000GT</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/boost-gauge-hook-up-question-479377/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>oil pressure sensor relocate?</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/oil-pressure-sensor-relocate-479364/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 03:47:35 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>is there anywhere i can relocate the bigger oil pressure sensor to i got a new oil pump from 3sx and i thought id wait till it was all in to put the sensor in and now the plug they had in it stripped out and wont come out for anything does anyone know if it can be located to any place else?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>is there anywhere i can relocate the bigger oil pressure sensor to i got a new oil pump from 3sx and i thought id wait till it was all in to put the sensor in and now the plug they had in it stripped out and wont come out for anything does anyone know if it can be located to any place else?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>TurboBoy93TT</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/oil-pressure-sensor-relocate-479364/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>H-E-L-P!!! i need a good mechanic</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/h-e-l-p-i-need-good-mechanic-479354/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 02:21:30 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[i currently have an issue with my car. i'll start by saying I NEED A MECHANIC ASAP!

let me begin by saying the car was running fine, it had the ticking sound that apparently is coming from the lifters but that's about it. until i took it to a "mechanic" that will do a tune-up and install some parts for me. my car is a 1995 3000gt vr4. here are the parts that he replaced.

-timing belt
-water pump
-3sx pulley
-msd wires
-spark plugs
-fuel filter
-headers
-pre-cat delete


now for some odd reason it is not pulling at all....smoke is coming out like crazy!!!! dont even know from where!!!! i ran out of ideas....i need you guys help. i want someone that will get my car up and running like a beast! 

now i live in Bradenton, FL 34203 i need someone local that will put effort to get my car ready and no a loser who will fucked up my car even more. here is my phone # (941) 725 2053cell or (941) 727-6705office. if i dont answer just leave a message.


thank you guys!
_________________________________________________________

more info....


the smoke is while....the car was sitting for a long time couple of months maybe 8-9 months...could the gas has to do with that?


i turned the car on yerterday night, let it warm out then i decided to drive it couple  houses in the block....at first it did moved fine (no boost at the time)...when i punch it a lil bit it boosted quick by the time it reached all the boost it lost the power in a fraction of a second. after that happen i brake and decided to check it...but he car wasnt moving at all....the car turned off when that happen....the car did turned on but the power wasnt there at all!!!!! 
also, the RPM is moving up and down at first...then stay below 1k....by the time i putted in 1st it was horrible it did not wanted to move forward nor reverse....at the time the smoke keep on coming it was *WHITE SMOKE*]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>i currently have an issue with my car. i'll start by saying I NEED A MECHANIC ASAP!<br />
<br />
let me begin by saying the car was running fine, it had the ticking sound that apparently is coming from the lifters but that's about it. until i took it to a "mechanic" that will do a tune-up and install some parts for me. my car is a 1995 3000gt vr4. here are the parts that he replaced.<br />
<br />
-timing belt<br />
-water pump<br />
-3sx pulley<br />
-msd wires<br />
-spark plugs<br />
-fuel filter<br />
-headers<br />
-pre-cat delete<br />
<br />
<br />
now for some odd reason it is not pulling at all....smoke is coming out like crazy!!!! dont even know from where!!!! i ran out of ideas....i need you guys help. i want someone that will get my car up and running like a beast! <br />
<br />
now i live in Bradenton, FL 34203 i need someone local that will put effort to get my car ready and no a loser who will fucked up my car even more. here is my phone # (941) 725 2053cell or (941) 727-6705office. if i dont answer just leave a message.<br />
<br />
<br />
thank you guys!<br />
_________________________________________________________<br />
<br />
more info....<br />
<br />
<br />
the smoke is while....the car was sitting for a long time couple of months maybe 8-9 months...could the gas has to do with that?<br />
<br />
<br />
i turned the car on yerterday night, let it warm out then i decided to drive it couple  houses in the block....at first it did moved fine (no boost at the time)...when i punch it a lil bit it boosted quick by the time it reached all the boost it lost the power in a fraction of a second. after that happen i brake and decided to check it...but he car wasnt moving at all....the car turned off when that happen....the car did turned on but the power wasnt there at all!!!!! <br />
also, the RPM is moving up and down at first...then stay below 1k....by the time i putted in 1st it was horrible it did not wanted to move forward nor reverse....at the time the smoke keep on coming it was <b>WHITE SMOKE</b></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>supercatracho</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/h-e-l-p-i-need-good-mechanic-479354/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>exhaust smoke?</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/exhaust-smoke-479335/</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 16 Nov 2009 21:59:15 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[*hey guys. I have a 92' VR4 with 89k miles. got intake, bov, mbc, dp, tp, single shot cat back. recently iv noticed on cold start up, their is some white smoke coming out of exhaust. when i rev it stops but when i let off a little more white smoke comes out again. when the car warms up this seems to go away. other then that the car runs great. what could be the problem? i couldnt really find anything under search that is exactly like my problem... so please help me find out my problem! *]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><font color="Red"><b>hey guys. I have a 92' VR4 with 89k miles. got intake, bov, mbc, dp, tp, single shot cat back. recently iv noticed on cold start up, their is some white smoke coming out of exhaust. when i rev it stops but when i let off a little more white smoke comes out again. when the car warms up this seems to go away. other then that the car runs great. what could be the problem? i couldnt really find anything under search that is exactly like my problem... so please help me find out my problem! </b></font></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>GearHead899</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/exhaust-smoke-479335/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Smoking on decel</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/smoking-decel-479312/</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 16 Nov 2009 14:53:54 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[1993 VR-4 with 3sx eliminator turbos, front turbo rebuilt this summer by 3sx, rear turbo rebuilt this past winter by Majestic turbo. Smoking on decel(puff of blueish white smoke) after pushing the boost and RPM's to 5K. Pulled the downpipe and let the car idle for a few minutes and the precat elimanator/O2 housing outlets were bone dry. DO I have to run the car at boost to really test whether a turbo seal is leaking? No smoke on startup aftersitting overnight.:(]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>1993 VR-4 with 3sx eliminator turbos, front turbo rebuilt this summer by 3sx, rear turbo rebuilt this past winter by Majestic turbo. Smoking on decel(puff of blueish white smoke) after pushing the boost and RPM's to 5K. Pulled the downpipe and let the car idle for a few minutes and the precat elimanator/O2 housing outlets were bone dry. DO I have to run the car at boost to really test whether a turbo seal is leaking? No smoke on startup aftersitting overnight.:(</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>Stealthdoc</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/smoking-decel-479312/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>EBay Header Down pipes</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/ebay-header-down-pipes-479254/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 15 Nov 2009 22:31:06 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Curious if this is crap or something to look at getting? Not interested in the headers, but just the down pipe and rear cat eliminator...

Dodge Stealth Turbo Manifolds/ 3000GT Super Setup combo:eBay Motors (item 110452273587 end time Nov-18-09 09:03:15 PST) (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110452273587&category=33742&_trksid=p4340.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSI%26its%3DI%252BC%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D10%26ps%3D63)

Bill]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Curious if this is crap or something to look at getting? Not interested in the headers, but just the down pipe and rear cat eliminator...<br />
<br />
<img style='height:1px;width:1px;text-decoration:none;border:0;padding:0;margin:0;' src='http://rover.ebay.com/ar/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?mpt=936905883&adtype=1&size=1x1&type=3&campid=5336116702&toolid=10001'> <a rel="nofollow" href="http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=3&campid=5336116702&toolid=10001&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Febaymotors%2Fws%2FeBayISAPI.dll%3FViewItem%26item%3D110452273587%26category%3D33742%26_trksid%3Dp4340.m263%26_trkparms%3Dalgo%253DSI%2526its%253DI%25252BC%2526itu%253DUCI%2526otn%253D10%2526ps%253D63" target="_blank">Dodge Stealth Turbo Manifolds/ 3000GT Super Setup combo:eBay Motors (item 110452273587 end time Nov-18-09 09:03:15 PST)</a><br />
<br />
Bill</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>CoopKill</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/ebay-header-down-pipes-479254/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Spark Plug issue... Need advice...</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/spark-plug-issue-need-advice-479252/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 15 Nov 2009 22:04:03 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I am in the middle of changing out 60k parts do to a timing belt failure. While removing the rear plugs to use compressed air to check for bent valves, I noticed one of the plugs was actually loose. After pulling it I noticed it was quite a bit dirtier than the other five I had pulled. 

My question is: Is the oil on it do to it being loose and blow-bye causing the buildup? The car doesn't smoke and ran very well before the belt issue. None of the valves are bent, or at least hold 90lbs of compressed air when checking that way. Like I said the plug was barely hand tight. See pic for reference.

Bill
Image: http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dcIEIvS3Pfc/SwB44BiY5kI/AAAAAAAAJAI/totqbCXoT9o/s720/DSC_5422.JPG ]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I am in the middle of changing out 60k parts do to a timing belt failure. While removing the rear plugs to use compressed air to check for bent valves, I noticed one of the plugs was actually loose. After pulling it I noticed it was quite a bit dirtier than the other five I had pulled. <br />
<br />
My question is: Is the oil on it do to it being loose and blow-bye causing the buildup? The car doesn't smoke and ran very well before the belt issue. None of the valves are bent, or at least hold 90lbs of compressed air when checking that way. Like I said the plug was barely hand tight. See pic for reference.<br />
<br />
Bill<br />
<img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dcIEIvS3Pfc/SwB44BiY5kI/AAAAAAAAJAI/totqbCXoT9o/s720/DSC_5422.JPG" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>CoopKill</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/spark-plug-issue-need-advice-479252/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Detonation any ideas???</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/detonation-any-ideas-479238/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 15 Nov 2009 18:28:44 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I've had problem after problem with my vr4 but I just about have it all worked out... I think. I am having a problem with detonation just before I hit boost in nuetral or any gear unless I unplug the MAS. mods are ebay down pipe, walbro fuel pump and hotwire kit, no front precat or main cat(haven't gotten to gut the rear precat yet??????) and my rear turbo is blowin a little oil. Any Ideas??
           Thanks in advance everyone,
                                              Shawn]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I've had problem after problem with my vr4 but I just about have it all worked out... I think. I am having a problem with detonation just before I hit boost in nuetral or any gear unless I unplug the MAS. mods are ebay down pipe, walbro fuel pump and hotwire kit, no front precat or main cat(haven't gotten to gut the rear precat yet??????) and my rear turbo is blowin a little oil. Any Ideas??<br />
           Thanks in advance everyone,<br />
                                              Shawn</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[91stealth']]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/detonation-any-ideas-479238/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Lifter tick or spun bearing? (Video)</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/lifter-tick-spun-bearing-video-479229/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 15 Nov 2009 15:13:59 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Ok so apparently you are supposed to replace the oil in your engine, I'll be mindful of that in the future.

Anyways, just wondering if this sounds more like lifter tick or a bearing, or something else.  In my SOHC, I seem to be able to get rid of what little tick it has by revving the engine.  In this car, though, it's pretty consistent.

I have been getting knock counts sometimes up to 28 (but never more than that, ever, it's like 28 is the ceiling) between 2500 and 3500 rpm when the engine deals with a bit of load.  My wideband reads rich.

Just wondering if it's time to take it to my parents heated garage for the winter and install the engine I have sitting around.

Thanks for the help!

YouTube - Lifter tick or spun bearing?? (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8UMkGFRlAE)]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Ok so apparently you are supposed to replace the oil in your engine, I'll be mindful of that in the future.<br />
<br />
Anyways, just wondering if this sounds more like lifter tick or a bearing, or something else.  In my SOHC, I seem to be able to get rid of what little tick it has by revving the engine.  In this car, though, it's pretty consistent.<br />
<br />
I have been getting knock counts sometimes up to 28 (but never more than that, ever, it's like 28 is the ceiling) between 2500 and 3500 rpm when the engine deals with a bit of load.  My wideband reads rich.<br />
<br />
Just wondering if it's time to take it to my parents heated garage for the winter and install the engine I have sitting around.<br />
<br />
Thanks for the help!<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8UMkGFRlAE" target="_blank">YouTube - Lifter tick or spun bearing??</a></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>Shifty556</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/lifter-tick-spun-bearing-video-479229/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Cutting out at full throttle</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/cutting-out-full-throttle-479223/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 15 Nov 2009 08:32:13 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I just ran into a new problem with my 91 3000gt Vr4. First I noticed that my idle had dropped to around 500rpm's one morning on start up., Now it varys from 500 to 700. Sometime's on start up it will idle real low for about 30 seconds and the needle will bounce off 2 or 3 hundred. As for driving normal, everything feels fine, engine sounds good, and even idleing low the engine still sounds clean and smooth but what I've also noticed, about 5 seconds into full throttle it will want to cut out a few times but afterwards it does accelerate. Im trying to narrow it down. Can anyone help me?




I had a similar problem once before, I have a aftermarket BOV and from what I understand is that theres a hole on the stock tubing and it has to be plugged when an aftermarket BOV is installed and the plug fell out one time, I had it fixed somewhere, does anyone know where it is located? As for things I've eliminated is: 1 year old ECU from dealership, Plugs and wires changed recently, Rebuilt engine block with 20,000 miles so far, Rebuilt stock turbo's, EGR Deleted, Moble 1 synthetic every 3000 miles, 6 mon old Stage 2 clutch, Also my check engine light is not on. Thanks]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I just ran into a new problem with my 91 3000gt Vr4. First I noticed that my idle had dropped to around 500rpm's one morning on start up., Now it varys from 500 to 700. Sometime's on start up it will idle real low for about 30 seconds and the needle will bounce off 2 or 3 hundred. As for driving normal, everything feels fine, engine sounds good, and even idleing low the engine still sounds clean and smooth but what I've also noticed, about 5 seconds into full throttle it will want to cut out a few times but afterwards it does accelerate. Im trying to narrow it down. Can anyone help me?<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
I had a similar problem once before, I have a aftermarket BOV and from what I understand is that theres a hole on the stock tubing and it has to be plugged when an aftermarket BOV is installed and the plug fell out one time, I had it fixed somewhere, does anyone know where it is located? As for things I've eliminated is: 1 year old ECU from dealership, Plugs and wires changed recently, Rebuilt engine block with 20,000 miles so far, Rebuilt stock turbo's, EGR Deleted, Moble 1 synthetic every 3000 miles, 6 mon old Stage 2 clutch, Also my check engine light is not on. Thanks</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>Jesse_3kgt</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/cutting-out-full-throttle-479223/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Stock Actuators</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/stock-actuators-479222/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 15 Nov 2009 07:58:36 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Does anyone know if you can uprgrade the actuator spring in our stock 9b's or if anyone sells actuator kits for our 9b turbos? I want to upgrade just one turbo to a 16t and keep one 9b for one continuous boost cycle from low end to top end. I think it would be cool to have this setup.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Does anyone know if you can uprgrade the actuator spring in our stock 9b's or if anyone sells actuator kits for our 9b turbos? I want to upgrade just one turbo to a 16t and keep one 9b for one continuous boost cycle from low end to top end. I think it would be cool to have this setup.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>Xx3si89xX</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/stock-actuators-479222/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Rear bank has 0 compression.</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/rear-bank-has-0-compression-479220/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 15 Nov 2009 07:11:26 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I recently bought a '92 VR4 from some guys who weren't very mechanic-savy. The idle seemed really rough when I went to buy the car, so I figured I'd do the 120k mi maintainence and see if that fixed any of the problems. After further inspection, I also replaced the vacuum lines (they weren't connected properly anyway). After all this, the car would still start, but it was extremely rough idling. It felt like it was going to die, and then rev to 700ish rpm. 

I just pressure tested my engine and found that all of the cylinders on the rear bank (closest to firewall) are getting 0 compression. The front bank seems normal at around 135. 

I thought I might be having a problem when I hooked up my vacuum gauge to the manifold when the car was idling really rough and noticed that the needle was jumping from 5-10mmHg vacuum. It looked like the jumping was directly related to engine speed.

I guess I'm just looking for input on what to do next. I'm considering looking for a replacement head I could just bolt up so I can get my VR4 up and on the road. Could it be as easy as someone just having the intake + exhaust cams swapped on the head?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I recently bought a '92 VR4 from some guys who weren't very mechanic-savy. The idle seemed really rough when I went to buy the car, so I figured I'd do the 120k mi maintainence and see if that fixed any of the problems. After further inspection, I also replaced the vacuum lines (they weren't connected properly anyway). After all this, the car would still start, but it was extremely rough idling. It felt like it was going to die, and then rev to 700ish rpm. <br />
<br />
I just pressure tested my engine and found that all of the cylinders on the rear bank (closest to firewall) are getting 0 compression. The front bank seems normal at around 135. <br />
<br />
I thought I might be having a problem when I hooked up my vacuum gauge to the manifold when the car was idling really rough and noticed that the needle was jumping from 5-10mmHg vacuum. It looked like the jumping was directly related to engine speed.<br />
<br />
I guess I'm just looking for input on what to do next. I'm considering looking for a replacement head I could just bolt up so I can get my VR4 up and on the road. Could it be as easy as someone just having the intake + exhaust cams swapped on the head?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>DuctTapeProdigy</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/rear-bank-has-0-compression-479220/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>94 Engine swap into 1g.  Any issues?</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/94-engine-swap-into-1g-any-issues-479207/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 15 Nov 2009 01:10:12 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I've got a motor from a 94 and it's a 4 bolt that mated up to a 6 speed (of course).  I'm looking at buying a 1st gen to fix up and wondering what issues I'll have with swapping in the 94 motor.  I have all of the sensors/harness from the 94 motor, but not the wiring harness.

Thanks!]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I've got a motor from a 94 and it's a 4 bolt that mated up to a 6 speed (of course).  I'm looking at buying a 1st gen to fix up and wondering what issues I'll have with swapping in the 94 motor.  I have all of the sensors/harness from the 94 motor, but not the wiring harness.<br />
<br />
Thanks!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>3KGTCRUISER</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/94-engine-swap-into-1g-any-issues-479207/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>No fuel, no spark.</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/no-fuel-no-spark-479188/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 14 Nov 2009 20:15:03 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I just bought a 92 vr4 project car that I am trying to fix up.  The entire interior is out of the car including the dash.  The engine is a fresh build but the IC  system was removed and the vacuum lines were a mess.  I reinstalled the entire IC system and rerouted the vacuum lines correctly, made sure all the fuses were good and the ECU was hooked up right.  The engine cranks fine but wouldnt start.  I swapped the PTU and coils into my NA and the NA ran fine so both of those are good.  When I pull the front fuel rail and an injector no gas comes out when cranking so no fuel getting there.  Pulled the plugs and used NGK wires and plugs to test for spark and got nothing.  I checked the ECU for leaky caps and they look clean.  So, I dont know what the next step should be.  Are there components in the interior of the car that could cause these problems?  What other components in the ignition system should I be testing?  Thanks.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I just bought a 92 vr4 project car that I am trying to fix up.  The entire interior is out of the car including the dash.  The engine is a fresh build but the IC  system was removed and the vacuum lines were a mess.  I reinstalled the entire IC system and rerouted the vacuum lines correctly, made sure all the fuses were good and the ECU was hooked up right.  The engine cranks fine but wouldnt start.  I swapped the PTU and coils into my NA and the NA ran fine so both of those are good.  When I pull the front fuel rail and an injector no gas comes out when cranking so no fuel getting there.  Pulled the plugs and used NGK wires and plugs to test for spark and got nothing.  I checked the ECU for leaky caps and they look clean.  So, I dont know what the next step should be.  Are there components in the interior of the car that could cause these problems?  What other components in the ignition system should I be testing?  Thanks.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>vegeman</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/no-fuel-no-spark-479188/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>stock boost gauge clicks</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/stock-boost-gauge-clicks-479154/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 14 Nov 2009 02:34:53 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I did a vac. reduction, and afterward the car ran fine. then i installed a egr block and throttle body spacer and now the stock boost gauge clicks. when back together, the car ran fine but the boost gauge clicks when the turbos are boosting (i have AEM tru-boost to tell me actual boost) but when the turbos arent really being used the gauge is quiet. I also had to take out the glove box to run more wires through, and the only thing i can think of is one of those lines hit something on the gauge. anyone have similar circumstances/noise?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I did a vac. reduction, and afterward the car ran fine. then i installed a egr block and throttle body spacer and now the stock boost gauge clicks. when back together, the car ran fine but the boost gauge clicks when the turbos are boosting (i have AEM tru-boost to tell me actual boost) but when the turbos arent really being used the gauge is quiet. I also had to take out the glove box to run more wires through, and the only thing i can think of is one of those lines hit something on the gauge. anyone have similar circumstances/noise?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>TTconfuciusbaldy</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/stock-boost-gauge-clicks-479154/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Advice on Engine Rebuild</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/advice-engine-rebuild-479149/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 14 Nov 2009 00:01:35 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I had a compression test done on my 94 AWD TT.  Stock engine and the test results reflected an even 130psi on all six cylinders.  The technical manual states that optimum is 156psi with minimum of 115psi.  What's anyone's take on this.  I have the transmission off and also replacing valve seals too.  Is 130psi respectable and safe or should I use this opportunity to get the cylinders re-bored?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I had a compression test done on my 94 AWD TT.  Stock engine and the test results reflected an even 130psi on all six cylinders.  The technical manual states that optimum is 156psi with minimum of 115psi.  What's anyone's take on this.  I have the transmission off and also replacing valve seals too.  Is 130psi respectable and safe or should I use this opportunity to get the cylinders re-bored?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>Defianse</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/advice-engine-rebuild-479149/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Removing fuel return line?</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/removing-fuel-return-line-479117/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 13 Nov 2009 18:50:01 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[How necessary is the fuel return line?  My return line (the metal part aft of the fuel sending unit) is rusted and broken and therefore the fuel is not returning to the tank.  Is it safe to just clamp up the rubber portion of the line so that the fuel doesn't leave the engine.  The reason I want to clamp it up is because it looks like it will be impossible to fix without taking the fuel tank off and/or getting a new fuel tank and I don't want the line just pumping fumes near my trunk/exhaust or entering the car so I'm breathing it in while driving.  How crucial is this line?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>How necessary is the fuel return line?  My return line (the metal part aft of the fuel sending unit) is rusted and broken and therefore the fuel is not returning to the tank.  Is it safe to just clamp up the rubber portion of the line so that the fuel doesn't leave the engine.  The reason I want to clamp it up is because it looks like it will be impossible to fix without taking the fuel tank off and/or getting a new fuel tank and I don't want the line just pumping fumes near my trunk/exhaust or entering the car so I'm breathing it in while driving.  How crucial is this line?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>Mattio</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/removing-fuel-return-line-479117/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>1998 VR4 Project Opinions Needed</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/1998-vr4-project-opinions-needed-479102/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 13 Nov 2009 15:26:36 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Im about to put down some cash on my car and wanted some recommended setups for 400+ setups...Its a daily driven car 500hp would be my max.

i currently have.

Catbak
Intake
MBC
MSD Wires

and i have plans to buy.

TD04 19Ts
CXRacing FMIC
AEM Wideband AFM                                   
AEM TRU-Boost Controller 
Walbro Fuel Pump with Hotwire kit
Stage 2 Clutch
Injectors (i would like to know what size to get)
And the Whole FPR,Loop,Filter deal from 3SX

do any of you have any ideas or setups that can easily get me to 400-500awhp with those plans i have in mind with a couple of your ideas. Keep in mind its a daily driver nothing crazy.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Im about to put down some cash on my car and wanted some recommended setups for 400+ setups...Its a daily driven car 500hp would be my max.<br />
<br />
i currently have.<br />
<br />
Catbak<br />
Intake<br />
MBC<br />
MSD Wires<br />
<br />
and i have plans to buy.<br />
<br />
TD04 19Ts<br />
CXRacing FMIC<br />
AEM Wideband AFM                                   <br />
AEM TRU-Boost Controller <br />
Walbro Fuel Pump with Hotwire kit<br />
Stage 2 Clutch<br />
Injectors (i would like to know what size to get)<br />
And the Whole FPR,Loop,Filter deal from 3SX<br />
<br />
do any of you have any ideas or setups that can easily get me to 400-500awhp with those plans i have in mind with a couple of your ideas. Keep in mind its a daily driver nothing crazy.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>-|CRONZ|-</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/1998-vr4-project-opinions-needed-479102/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Boost Issue</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/boost-issue-479073/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 13 Nov 2009 02:55:16 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>My VR4 is not boosting right.   I was wondering are those vacuum hoses that attached to the soleniods when not attached properly will affect my boost?  I notice that those hoses are not attached when I purchased the car.  We found some other problem like the rear turbo had to be replaced and that has been replaced ever since.  But still having issue with boost.  Please help if you guys have experience this.

Thank you,</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>My VR4 is not boosting right.   I was wondering are those vacuum hoses that attached to the soleniods when not attached properly will affect my boost?  I notice that those hoses are not attached when I purchased the car.  We found some other problem like the rear turbo had to be replaced and that has been replaced ever since.  But still having issue with boost.  Please help if you guys have experience this.<br />
<br />
Thank you,</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>carlodavid1027</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/boost-issue-479073/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>1991 TT Shake/Hesitates? Whats The Deal?!</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/1991-tt-shake-hesitates-whats-deal-479068/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 13 Nov 2009 01:53:35 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hey Guys,
I just bought a 1991 Stealth TT with a fully rebuilt engine and tranny within the last 10k miles. The problem is when it gets above/around 3000 rpm it starts to shake/hesitate. I still have 40k miles left on my engine warranty but I'm wondering if anyone knows what the problem is. I heard sparks, and leaking boost are the most common problems.

1991 Stealth TT
-Engine Rebuilt in last 10k miles
-Tranny Rebuilt in last 10k miles
-Shakes/Hesitates above 3000rpm

Thanks for any help/input!

*NEW DISCOVERY
-WHEN THIS HAPPENS MY BOOST GAUGE IS READING 14psi!!*
Could that mean that my wastegate isn't opening?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hey Guys,<br />
I just bought a 1991 Stealth TT with a fully rebuilt engine and tranny within the last 10k miles. The problem is when it gets above/around 3000 rpm it starts to shake/hesitate. I still have 40k miles left on my engine warranty but I'm wondering if anyone knows what the problem is. I heard sparks, and leaking boost are the most common problems.<br />
<br />
1991 Stealth TT<br />
-Engine Rebuilt in last 10k miles<br />
-Tranny Rebuilt in last 10k miles<br />
-Shakes/Hesitates above 3000rpm<br />
<br />
Thanks for any help/input!<br />
<br />
<b>NEW DISCOVERY<br />
-WHEN THIS HAPPENS MY BOOST GAUGE IS READING 14psi!!</b><br />
Could that mean that my wastegate isn't opening?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>mdmfootball82</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/1991-tt-shake-hesitates-whats-deal-479068/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>WTB: 93 Vr4 ECU</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/wtb-93-vr4-ecu-479060/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 13 Nov 2009 00:30:52 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Where can i get a 02/1993 Vr4 ECU, and what are my other options???</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Where can i get a 02/1993 Vr4 ECU, and what are my other options???</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>eskimoVr4</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/wtb-93-vr4-ecu-479060/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Wtf!!!!!!!!!!!</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/wtf-479029/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 12 Nov 2009 17:10:28 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[my car has been running perfect....drove it last night......woke up this morning and had left my windows down......perfect weather though, but my car will not friggen start.....fuel pump is not coming on.....checked all the fuses...........need some advice........its really humid here but damn i have left my windows down before........tried locking and unlocking doors......checked hotwire fuse, underdash fuses...........anyone ever experiance this before?......it'll turn over but looking at fuel pressure gauge not getting nothing and cannot here the walbro whine when i turn key!!!!!!
as stated above car was running perfect!!!!!]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>my car has been running perfect....drove it last night......woke up this morning and had left my windows down......perfect weather though, but my car will not friggen start.....fuel pump is not coming on.....checked all the fuses...........need some advice........its really humid here but damn i have left my windows down before........tried locking and unlocking doors......checked hotwire fuse, underdash fuses...........anyone ever experiance this before?......it'll turn over but looking at fuel pressure gauge not getting nothing and cannot here the walbro whine when i turn key!!!!!!<br />
as stated above car was running perfect!!!!!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>billbrown72</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/wtf-479029/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>BOV(BPV) hits shifter</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/bov-bpv-hits-shifter-478999/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 12 Nov 2009 06:26:26 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I just put in a Evo MR bypass valve and the way I have it installed it hits the shifter when shifter i put into 1, 3, and 5. Ive tried moving it around (spinning it) and no success. Tried a google search too, but nothing.
help?
:confused:</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I just put in a Evo MR bypass valve and the way I have it installed it hits the shifter when shifter i put into 1, 3, and 5. Ive tried moving it around (spinning it) and no success. Tried a google search too, but nothing.<br />
help?<br />
:confused:</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>TTconfuciusbaldy</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/bov-bpv-hits-shifter-478999/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Switching to Synthetic, Flush or Not?</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/switching-synthetic-flush-not-478948/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 11 Nov 2009 22:14:09 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I know, another thread about motor oil.  Well, before everyone starts, I did read the ferrarichat article (very helpful), but have a question about flushing the motor before I switch to synthetic.  98 VR4 with 64,000 miles on it.  I figure some people will say yes, some will say no.

My question is, is it a bad idea to use the flush to be on the safe side?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I know, another thread about motor oil.  Well, before everyone starts, I did read the ferrarichat article (very helpful), but have a question about flushing the motor before I switch to synthetic.  98 VR4 with 64,000 miles on it.  I figure some people will say yes, some will say no.<br />
<br />
My question is, is it a bad idea to use the flush to be on the safe side?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>stolen</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/switching-synthetic-flush-not-478948/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Few problems with my car :(</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/few-problems-my-car-478947/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 11 Nov 2009 22:04:55 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>So I finally got my car after a year of wait from the mechanical shop and got it shipped to my city. Drove the car around for few hours and these problems came up :

- While driving I smell alot of Gas and at 3-4k RPM I smell it ever more.
- Car doesnt accelerate as much and I only took it once at above 4k RPM and just as the turbos kick in the car shakes and all the acceleration is gone..not sure what the right term is.
- Now after driving for few hours the check engine light came on and I just lost my dashboard lights :(

Help!</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>So I finally got my car after a year of wait from the mechanical shop and got it shipped to my city. Drove the car around for few hours and these problems came up :<br />
<br />
- While driving I smell alot of Gas and at 3-4k RPM I smell it ever more.<br />
- Car doesnt accelerate as much and I only took it once at above 4k RPM and just as the turbos kick in the car shakes and all the acceleration is gone..not sure what the right term is.<br />
- Now after driving for few hours the check engine light came on and I just lost my dashboard lights :(<br />
<br />
Help!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>spiffy</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/few-problems-my-car-478947/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Why does my 13t car feel so sluggish?</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/why-does-my-13t-car-feel-so-sluggish-478938/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 11 Nov 2009 20:45:03 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hey guys,
 
I know a bunch of you are running 13t's with like ~20psi boost but at the moment my car is running the 13t's at around 8psi with stock 360cc injectors.  Why does it feel like it is slower than stock??  Am I that far out of the compressor efficiency range of the 13t?  

Car has intake, FMIC, rebuilt bottom end, downpipe leading to stock exhaust.

Datalogged it, and the rear 02 sensor stays at 0.03v then goes to 0.05v for like 10 seconds then just stays at 0.03v, meanwhile the front 02 is functioning properly with fluctuating voltage

Timing hovers around 20-25 degrees under WOT and ~30 degrees under normal driving

Is the O2 the cause of the sluggish-ness? What is timing supposed to be at? 

Thank you,

Ben 

(have a HHH datalogging session saved but don't know how to upload it to 3si)]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hey guys,<br />
 <br />
I know a bunch of you are running 13t's with like ~20psi boost but at the moment my car is running the 13t's at around 8psi with stock 360cc injectors.  Why does it feel like it is slower than stock??  Am I that far out of the compressor efficiency range of the 13t?  <br />
<br />
Car has intake, FMIC, rebuilt bottom end, downpipe leading to stock exhaust.<br />
<br />
Datalogged it, and the rear 02 sensor stays at 0.03v then goes to 0.05v for like 10 seconds then just stays at 0.03v, meanwhile the front 02 is functioning properly with fluctuating voltage<br />
<br />
Timing hovers around 20-25 degrees under WOT and ~30 degrees under normal driving<br />
<br />
Is the O2 the cause of the sluggish-ness? What is timing supposed to be at? <br />
<br />
Thank you,<br />
<br />
Ben <br />
<br />
(have a HHH datalogging session saved but don't know how to upload it to 3si)</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>Mitsu91VR-4</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/why-does-my-13t-car-feel-so-sluggish-478938/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>May be simple or complex Enging cranking but not firing</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/may-simple-complex-enging-cranking-but-not-firing-478927/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 11 Nov 2009 18:39:04 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hey guys! I am a single girl that has owned a 3000gt VR4 for the past 6 years. However out of those six years the past two years my car has been sitting. I thought I had locked up my engine because the timing belt was melted on the top. So I finally found an engine to put into it but it took two years to find a decent one. Well I finally had someone look at it and it wasn' t locked up. So I had it moved to my apartment and I have switched the timing belt out on it in my parking lot. Replaced the water pump, idler pulley, tensioner pulley and crankshaft pulley sensor(it was melted). And put it back together. I tried cranking it over and it started but then it died. Now it will not start, it just cranks and cranks but does not fire. Is there anything else that I need to check. I checked the fuses and the battery connection and that seems to be ok. I want to check the crankshaft and camshaft sensor but I thought the car had to be running to do that.
Please help me out. It is getting colder over here in the midwest and I don't have very many more days to get it fixed in my apartment parking lot!]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hey guys! I am a single girl that has owned a 3000gt VR4 for the past 6 years. However out of those six years the past two years my car has been sitting. I thought I had locked up my engine because the timing belt was melted on the top. So I finally found an engine to put into it but it took two years to find a decent one. Well I finally had someone look at it and it wasn' t locked up. So I had it moved to my apartment and I have switched the timing belt out on it in my parking lot. Replaced the water pump, idler pulley, tensioner pulley and crankshaft pulley sensor(it was melted). And put it back together. I tried cranking it over and it started but then it died. Now it will not start, it just cranks and cranks but does not fire. Is there anything else that I need to check. I checked the fuses and the battery connection and that seems to be ok. I want to check the crankshaft and camshaft sensor but I thought the car had to be running to do that.<br />
Please help me out. It is getting colder over here in the midwest and I don't have very many more days to get it fixed in my apartment parking lot!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>KrakrJack</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/may-simple-complex-enging-cranking-but-not-firing-478927/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>4 bolt in my 91TT and which heads fit my car???</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/4-bolt-my-91tt-heads-fit-my-car-478898/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 11 Nov 2009 08:08:41 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Alright here is my confusing story. I am asking this just to be certain - what little info i got from searching helped somewhat..
the build is a 
91 TT
with a 4 bolt short block. . prepping to go in.

I already know there will likely need to be some modding done for the CAS to jive with the 1991 ECU
Stealth 316 - CAS Conversion (http://www.stealth316.com/2-cas_conversion.htm)

(any other forseeable problems? ..)

my question is will my 1991 heads work on this (unknown year) 4 bolt and the rest  of my setup.  In the event i core them out which heads should i try to end up with (how many 'generations' of heads are there, anyway?).  I am leaning toward some built heads but would like the option to stick with rebuilt stockers if thats an option.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Alright here is my confusing story. I am asking this just to be certain - what little info i got from searching helped somewhat..<br />
the build is a <br />
91 TT<br />
with a 4 bolt short block. . prepping to go in.<br />
<br />
I already know there will likely need to be some modding done for the CAS to jive with the 1991 ECU<br />
<a href="http://www.stealth316.com/2-cas_conversion.htm" target="_blank">Stealth 316 - CAS Conversion</a><br />
<br />
(any other forseeable problems? ..)<br />
<br />
my question is will my 1991 heads work on this (unknown year) 4 bolt and the rest  of my setup.  In the event i core them out which heads should i try to end up with (how many 'generations' of heads are there, anyway?).  I am leaning toward some built heads but would like the option to stick with rebuilt stockers if thats an option.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>spinnin4</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/4-bolt-my-91tt-heads-fit-my-car-478898/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[PROBLEM: Car doesn't accelerate as it shud even at full boost.Boost leak or..??]]></title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/problem-car-doesnt-accelerate-shud-even-full-boost-boost-leak-478896/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 11 Nov 2009 07:29:35 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi guys.I'am from New Zealand and i just recently bought a 91 TT GTO :mitsu:.Everything in the car was stock and well kept.Only problem it had was that the rear turbos seal was gone so it blew bit of smoke and needed few adjustments hear and there.Having just finished automotive engineering and doing mechatronics currently,this car was a great practise for me to work on.Basically i was able to fix any problems that came along in this car till now.....

Ok this is my problem.Just few days ago i was tightening the loose fanbelt for the p/steering pump.Which obviously required me to remove the rear turbos pipes to make space to work.After i was done i took it for a run..well this is when the problem began..at very low rpm (around 3k) the turbo boosts like crazy and the car accelerates at the speed of a snail.The center console boost gauge reads more than zero whereas normally it wud be less at low speed and rpm..And when i floor the pedal,the turbo spools like a freaking jet engine and runs at full boost while the car will struggle to accelerate and will only be able to make 30km/h..It also blew smoke more than usual..which was more blackish than blue (running rich?)...and i think the exhaust gas doesnt completly escape the engine coz wen i open the oil filler cap,trapped gas escapes from there

What cud be the problem..is it boost leak or is the rear turbo(the one with the bad seal) is gone or something else...thanx]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi guys.I'am from New Zealand and i just recently bought a 91 TT GTO :mitsu:.Everything in the car was stock and well kept.Only problem it had was that the rear turbos seal was gone so it blew bit of smoke and needed few adjustments hear and there.Having just finished automotive engineering and doing mechatronics currently,this car was a great practise for me to work on.Basically i was able to fix any problems that came along in this car till now.....<br />
<br />
Ok this is my problem.Just few days ago i was tightening the loose fanbelt for the p/steering pump.Which obviously required me to remove the rear turbos pipes to make space to work.After i was done i took it for a run..well this is when the problem began..at very low rpm (around 3k) the turbo boosts like crazy and the car accelerates at the speed of a snail.The center console boost gauge reads more than zero whereas normally it wud be less at low speed and rpm..And when i floor the pedal,the turbo spools like a freaking jet engine and runs at full boost while the car will struggle to accelerate and will only be able to make 30km/h..It also blew smoke more than usual..which was more blackish than blue (running rich?)...and i think the exhaust gas doesnt completly escape the engine coz wen i open the oil filler cap,trapped gas escapes from there<br />
<br />
What cud be the problem..is it boost leak or is the rear turbo(the one with the bad seal) is gone or something else...thanx</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>rallyx8</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/problem-car-doesnt-accelerate-shud-even-full-boost-boost-leak-478896/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>evo scan software on vr4???</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/evo-scan-software-vr4-478876/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 11 Nov 2009 01:33:48 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Has anyone used the evoscan software an tactrix cable on a vr4?? A guy named Chris Church told me to try it.. But Idont know alot about it..</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Has anyone used the evoscan software an tactrix cable on a vr4?? A guy named Chris Church told me to try it.. But Idont know alot about it..</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>james96vr4</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/evo-scan-software-vr4-478876/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>my new VR4 need help figureing some sh*t out.</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/my-new-vr4-need-help-figureing-some-sh-t-out-478872/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 11 Nov 2009 01:15:22 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>alright i got an unknown part. and im not sure on where my gauges hook up at... more less my boost gauge. i turn my acessories on and my boost gauge works. but when i rev it up it dont move at all... and i get plenty of boost! and also im not sure if my BOV is working correctly i got a video of it.. but im not sure if the vacuum line is right on it. its blowing air out at idle... but when it boosts up it closes up, as in it dont blow air out till it stops building boost... but is it supposed to blow air out at just idle?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>alright i got an unknown part. and im not sure on where my gauges hook up at... more less my boost gauge. i turn my acessories on and my boost gauge works. but when i rev it up it dont move at all... and i get plenty of boost! and also im not sure if my BOV is working correctly i got a video of it.. but im not sure if the vacuum line is right on it. its blowing air out at idle... but when it boosts up it closes up, as in it dont blow air out till it stops building boost... but is it supposed to blow air out at just idle?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/">Engine - Turbo</category>
			<dc:creator>pearlwitestealth</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/my-new-vr4-need-help-figureing-some-sh-t-out-478872/</guid>
		</item>
	</channel>
</rss>
