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<strong>/includes/class_postbit_alt.php(459) : eval()'d code</strong> on line <strong>26</strong><br /><br /><strong>Warning</strong>: Invalid argument supplied for foreach() in <strong>/includes/class_postbit_alt.php(459) : eval()'d code</strong> on line <strong>26</strong><br /><br /><strong>Warning</strong>: Invalid argument supplied for foreach() in <strong>/includes/class_postbit_alt.php(459) : eval()'d code</strong> on line <strong>26</strong><br /><br /><strong>Warning</strong>: Invalid argument supplied for foreach() in <strong>/includes/class_postbit_alt.php(459) : eval()'d code</strong> on line <strong>26</strong><br /><br /><strong>Warning</strong>: Invalid argument supplied for foreach() in <strong>/includes/class_postbit_alt.php(459) : eval()'d code</strong> on line <strong>26</strong><br /><br /><strong>Warning</strong>: Invalid argument supplied for foreach() in <strong>/includes/class_postbit_alt.php(459) : eval()'d code</strong> on line <strong>26</strong><br /><?xml version="1.0" encoding="ISO-8859-1"?>

<rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/">
	<channel>
		<title>3000GT/Stealth International Message Center - All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</title>
		<link>http://www.3si.org/forum</link>
		<description />
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Sat, 21 Nov 2009 02:59:25 GMT</lastBuildDate>
		<generator>vBulletin</generator>
		<ttl>60</ttl>
		<image>
			<url>http://www.3si.org/forum/images/misc/rss.jpg</url>
			<title>3000GT/Stealth International Message Center - All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum</link>
		</image>
		<item>
			<title>release fork, and pivot ball</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/release-fork-pivot-ball-479694/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 23:02:26 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Is it smart to replace the release fork and pivot ball while I have my trany out. 

What elso should I look at replacing while this is out, thanks for the help.

Pete</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Is it smart to replace the release fork and pivot ball while I have my trany out. <br />
<br />
What elso should I look at replacing while this is out, thanks for the help.<br />
<br />
Pete</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>99 VR4</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/release-fork-pivot-ball-479694/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>removing trans, suspention</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/removing-trans-suspention-479611/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 02:46:30 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>ive been using three guides to help me pull out my trans

http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/step-step-transmission-removal-guide-459173/

Stealth 316 - Transaxle and Clutch (http://www.stealth316.com/2-trany.htm)

http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/clutch-swap-walkthrough-469516/

there all extremely helpful, but im at the point were i have to take apart the suspention to remove the tranny... and im confused.. it doesnt help that i dont know much about suspension systems? 

what is the best way to do this? i apologize, i know the info is all out in front of me, i jus cant seem to make sense of it</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>ive been using three guides to help me pull out my trans<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/step-step-transmission-removal-guide-459173/" target="_blank">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/step-s...-guide-459173/</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.stealth316.com/2-trany.htm" target="_blank">Stealth 316 - Transaxle and Clutch</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/clutch-swap-walkthrough-469516/" target="_blank">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/clutch...hrough-469516/</a><br />
<br />
there all extremely helpful, but im at the point were i have to take apart the suspention to remove the tranny... and im confused.. it doesnt help that i dont know much about suspension systems? <br />
<br />
what is the best way to do this? i apologize, i know the info is all out in front of me, i jus cant seem to make sense of it</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>nkl420</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/removing-trans-suspention-479611/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Replace Shift Fork without pulling Tranny?</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/replace-shift-fork-without-pulling-tranny-479585/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 19:17:05 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>My apologies if this is a dumb question, but someone told me that many transmissions can have the shift forks replaced with it still in the car?

Its a 5 speed.

Thanks in advance.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>My apologies if this is a dumb question, but someone told me that many transmissions can have the shift forks replaced with it still in the car?<br />
<br />
Its a 5 speed.<br />
<br />
Thanks in advance.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>jcheilig</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/replace-shift-fork-without-pulling-tranny-479585/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>How much is it worth?</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/how-much-worth-479538/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 03:49:32 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have a chance to do a 6 speed swap for my 93. I'd be able to get the rear end, driveshaft, and a rebuilt trans. The person is asking me what I'd wanna pay? Any opinions on value?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a chance to do a 6 speed swap for my 93. I'd be able to get the rear end, driveshaft, and a rebuilt trans. The person is asking me what I'd wanna pay? Any opinions on value?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>VR4tank</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/how-much-worth-479538/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>new OS, clutch, now no reverse</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/new-os-clutch-now-no-reverse-479528/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 01:07:45 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I pulled my trans to replace the clutch and output shaft. Got it back together, and now when the car is both running and off, I can't shift into reverse. The clutch is fully bled and adjusted, goes into other gears fine, just no reverse. Any ideas?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I pulled my trans to replace the clutch and output shaft. Got it back together, and now when the car is both running and off, I can't shift into reverse. The clutch is fully bled and adjusted, goes into other gears fine, just no reverse. Any ideas?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>slo6</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/new-os-clutch-now-no-reverse-479528/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>does anyone have a pic of a tranny brace? is there one?</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/does-anyone-have-pic-tranny-brace-there-one-479385/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 14:26:20 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>im in the process of getting my vr4 on the road. previous owner did not take the best care of her.she is a 91.
in my trunk there was a pretty long ,metal brace..maybe like a foot or so wide and pretty long.owner was like you dont need it...he took it off the under carriage for less weight...bullshit if you did not need it it wouldnt be there....any idea what it could be?im gonna try to get a pic of it. thanks Lou</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>im in the process of getting my vr4 on the road. previous owner did not take the best care of her.she is a 91.<br />
in my trunk there was a pretty long ,metal brace..maybe like a foot or so wide and pretty long.owner was like you dont need it...he took it off the under carriage for less weight...bullshit if you did not need it it wouldnt be there....any idea what it could be?im gonna try to get a pic of it. thanks Lou</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>Lou3000gt</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/does-anyone-have-pic-tranny-brace-there-one-479385/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Need pictures of gearset sitting in 6 spd end case</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/need-pictures-gearset-sitting-6-spd-end-case-479384/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 14:06:40 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Looking for any pictures anyone has of the gearset sitting in the 6 speed end case.

Building some solidworks end case models and I see some room for improvement over the stock design, but I want to confirm that there is enough room to beef it up in those areas on the inside.

I need stuff like this: 
buildup 011.jpg (http://3si.picturealbums.org/v/shiver-91vr4/buildup+011.jpg.html)

but looking down all around the case so I can see how close to the edges of the case the gears get.  If someone could even throw one shaft in there at a time and take pictures all around (so there is less interferance) that would be even better.  It would also be nice to have the output shaft assembly in there as well to see the clearances there.

Thanks,

Chris</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Looking for any pictures anyone has of the gearset sitting in the 6 speed end case.<br />
<br />
Building some solidworks end case models and I see some room for improvement over the stock design, but I want to confirm that there is enough room to beef it up in those areas on the inside.<br />
<br />
I need stuff like this: <br />
<a href="http://3si.picturealbums.org/v/shiver-91vr4/buildup+011.jpg.html" target="_blank">buildup 011.jpg</a><br />
<br />
but looking down all around the case so I can see how close to the edges of the case the gears get.  If someone could even throw one shaft in there at a time and take pictures all around (so there is less interferance) that would be even better.  It would also be nice to have the output shaft assembly in there as well to see the clearances there.<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
<br />
Chris</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>SHiVeR-91VR4</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/need-pictures-gearset-sitting-6-spd-end-case-479384/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>AWS Bypass??</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/aws-bypass-479372/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 05:19:48 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I am guessing this thread is in the right spot

Trying to bypass my aws steering without deleting the entire thing.. My control vlave at the rear is leaking fluid around the driverside of the vlave, which is impossible to tell where its coming from because I have no clue of even how to remove it and see.. So I was wondering if you could just cap the lines off with out messing anything up?? If so, which lines and what all is needed to be done? The vlave is rusty and the lines are too and didn't really wanna try to remove it and break a line or anything. Trying to sell the car and don't really have the time to deleting the whole system. So, just looking for a temporary fix til the next guy can actually put a lil time and money to fix it.. 

PS. tried searching and only thing I saw was the AWS Delete thread. Just wanna cap it and go on about it.. Thats if its that simple. 

                                                        Thanks Jamie]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I am guessing this thread is in the right spot<br />
<br />
Trying to bypass my aws steering without deleting the entire thing.. My control vlave at the rear is leaking fluid around the driverside of the vlave, which is impossible to tell where its coming from because I have no clue of even how to remove it and see.. So I was wondering if you could just cap the lines off with out messing anything up?? If so, which lines and what all is needed to be done? The vlave is rusty and the lines are too and didn't really wanna try to remove it and break a line or anything. Trying to sell the car and don't really have the time to deleting the whole system. So, just looking for a temporary fix til the next guy can actually put a lil time and money to fix it.. <br />
<br />
PS. tried searching and only thing I saw was the AWS Delete thread. Just wanna cap it and go on about it.. Thats if its that simple. <br />
<br />
                                                        Thanks Jamie</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>riverside20</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/aws-bypass-479372/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Help!! Drive shaft rattle</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/help-drive-shaft-rattle-479319/</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 16 Nov 2009 16:35:15 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>1994 VR4, rear end used to rattle when Launching/popping clutch.
I find out it was the Drive shaft carrier baring was bad, I send it to the shop to change the (2) Drive shaft carrier baring (Dealer parts) when I got the car back, without launching or popping the clutch, I now feel rattling in the rear end on the first and second gear every time at over 4000 RPM...any Idea?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>1994 VR4, rear end used to rattle when Launching/popping clutch.<br />
I find out it was the Drive shaft carrier baring was bad, I send it to the shop to change the (2) Drive shaft carrier baring (Dealer parts) when I got the car back, without launching or popping the clutch, I now feel rattling in the rear end on the first and second gear every time at over 4000 RPM...any Idea?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>ffattah</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/help-drive-shaft-rattle-479319/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Fidanza FW Ring gear failure</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/fidanza-fw-ring-gear-failure-479279/</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 16 Nov 2009 02:30:17 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Fidanza lightweight flywheel has about 11000 mi on it. I bought it used at 
10k and have put about a thousand mi on it. I really like the extra HP and the lighter pedal pressure is really sweet. 
The bad... I began hearing a rattle when releasing the clutch pedal when the car is cold. The rattle got louder and louder. I finally pulled the starter to see if anything was amiss with the clutch, TOB, or flywheel. The ring gear was loose from the flywheel. It was just barely loose, but enough so that while cold the flywheel could graze the starter gear. I tightened the three button head screws that I thought held the ring gear to FW. Stopped the rattle for about 400 mi then it was back. Pulled starter again and used loctite to again re-tighten the three 1/4-20 button head screws. This time rattle was back in about 100 mi.
Contacted Fidanza. They said it was a heat issue because of differences in steel and aluminum absorption. They say for $50 they'll resurface the aluminum FW and add an insert to press fit the ring gear on the aluminum FW as it was originally. Whats to stop it from happening again?
Anybody have this problem?
Thanks.
Jim]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Fidanza lightweight flywheel has about 11000 mi on it. I bought it used at <br />
10k and have put about a thousand mi on it. I really like the extra HP and the lighter pedal pressure is really sweet. <br />
The bad... I began hearing a rattle when releasing the clutch pedal when the car is cold. The rattle got louder and louder. I finally pulled the starter to see if anything was amiss with the clutch, TOB, or flywheel. The ring gear was loose from the flywheel. It was just barely loose, but enough so that while cold the flywheel could graze the starter gear. I tightened the three button head screws that I thought held the ring gear to FW. Stopped the rattle for about 400 mi then it was back. Pulled starter again and used loctite to again re-tighten the three 1/4-20 button head screws. This time rattle was back in about 100 mi.<br />
Contacted Fidanza. They said it was a heat issue because of differences in steel and aluminum absorption. They say for $50 they'll resurface the aluminum FW and add an insert to press fit the ring gear on the aluminum FW as it was originally. Whats to stop it from happening again?<br />
Anybody have this problem?<br />
Thanks.<br />
Jim</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>lucasred</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/fidanza-fw-ring-gear-failure-479279/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Bad Lobro Joint?(video embedded)</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/bad-lobro-joint-video-embedded-479268/</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 16 Nov 2009 01:13:00 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[So after an "ordeal" of getting my car up and running 8 months after my clutch went out I decided in addition to putting in a rebuilt trans to do the carrier bearings- simple enough??? NOT!!!!

In fact, the clutch and trans are fine, the pilot shaft is not. First off, the lobro joint did not come apart easily(the thin metal cap came off, but the rear cap towards the differential did not) so I had to remove the ball bearings to get to the bolt for the carrier bearing. When I put them back in I did not know where they came from(manual says to put them back exactly as they came out), also to take apart the bearings the manual states to use a puller instead of snap ring pliers so I bent the snap ring and bent it back as good as I could before re-assembling the joint. Then I went to the local dealer to get a new ring only to find that I could not disassemble the joint again so I left it thinking it would be ok.

Well this is the result: 

<object width="560" height="340"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/3jXCQNB-qQc&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/3jXCQNB-qQc&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="560" height="340"></embed></object>

You can see at :08 and :15 that the pilot shaft is not flexing at the lobro joint, most likely either the bearings are not seated properly or the snap ring came off, either way, on the road this occurs at about 20mph and sounds like the pilot shaft is going to pop through the floor boards.

Thus- I most likely need a new lobro joint, however, does anyone have any tips for disassembling this one to see if I can try once more to re-assemble it properly? 

I found a couple of pilot shafts on here, but the one I got a response on won't be ready to ship until next weekend and I need this fixed ASAP as I am driving the bike(see sig) to work until this gets fixed, not the best thing in Nov in Chicago :(]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>So after an "ordeal" of getting my car up and running 8 months after my clutch went out I decided in addition to putting in a rebuilt trans to do the carrier bearings- simple enough??? NOT!!!!<br />
<br />
In fact, the clutch and trans are fine, the pilot shaft is not. First off, the lobro joint did not come apart easily(the thin metal cap came off, but the rear cap towards the differential did not) so I had to remove the ball bearings to get to the bolt for the carrier bearing. When I put them back in I did not know where they came from(manual says to put them back exactly as they came out), also to take apart the bearings the manual states to use a puller instead of snap ring pliers so I bent the snap ring and bent it back as good as I could before re-assembling the joint. Then I went to the local dealer to get a new ring only to find that I could not disassemble the joint again so I left it thinking it would be ok.<br />
<br />
Well this is the result: <br />
<br />
<object width="560" height="340"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/3jXCQNB-qQc&amp;hl=en_US&amp;fs=1&amp;"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/3jXCQNB-qQc&amp;hl=en_US&amp;fs=1&amp;" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="560" height="340"></embed></object><br />
<br />
You can see at :08 and :15 that the pilot shaft is not flexing at the lobro joint, most likely either the bearings are not seated properly or the snap ring came off, either way, on the road this occurs at about 20mph and sounds like the pilot shaft is going to pop through the floor boards.<br />
<br />
Thus- I most likely need a new lobro joint, however, does anyone have any tips for disassembling this one to see if I can try once more to re-assemble it properly? <br />
<br />
I found a couple of pilot shafts on here, but the one I got a response on won't be ready to ship until next weekend and I need this fixed ASAP as I am driving the bike(see sig) to work until this gets fixed, not the best thing in Nov in Chicago :(</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>VR4 Playa</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/bad-lobro-joint-video-embedded-479268/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>clutches.. Fidanza or SPEC?</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/clutches-fidanza-spec-479051/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 12 Nov 2009 22:33:17 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>im about to purchase a new clutch.. im thinking either the fidanza 3.2

Fidanza Clutches TT/VR4 AWD 3S*-*Mitsubishi 3000GT*/*Dodge Stealth Parts (http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_viewItemBundle.asp?idProduct=26608)

or the SPEC 2 / 2+

SPEC Clutch 3S Kits 3000GT VR-4 Stealth TT AWD*-*Mitsubishi 3000GT*/*Dodge Stealth Parts (http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_viewItemBundle.asp?idProduct=566)

anyone have any experiance with either of these ?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>im about to purchase a new clutch.. im thinking either the fidanza 3.2<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_viewItemBundle.asp?idProduct=26608" target="_blank">Fidanza Clutches TT/VR4 AWD 3S*-*Mitsubishi 3000GT*/*Dodge Stealth Parts</a><br />
<br />
or the SPEC 2 / 2+<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_viewItemBundle.asp?idProduct=566" target="_blank">SPEC Clutch 3S Kits 3000GT VR-4 Stealth TT AWD*-*Mitsubishi 3000GT*/*Dodge Stealth Parts</a><br />
<br />
anyone have any experiance with either of these ?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>nkl420</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/clutches-fidanza-spec-479051/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Clutch Question</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/clutch-question-479048/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 12 Nov 2009 22:22:04 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Well I got my clutch removed, and see why it was slipping. The surface that met the pressure plate was worn down past the rivets, it actully caused gouges in the pressure plate. What I dont understand is why didnt the other surface that was on the flywheel wear the same. Is that common or should they have been the same ammount of wear? 

Pete</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Well I got my clutch removed, and see why it was slipping. The surface that met the pressure plate was worn down past the rivets, it actully caused gouges in the pressure plate. What I dont understand is why didnt the other surface that was on the flywheel wear the same. Is that common or should they have been the same ammount of wear? <br />
<br />
Pete</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>99 VR4</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/clutch-question-479048/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Transmission or Transfer case issue?</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/transmission-transfer-case-issue-479011/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 12 Nov 2009 13:32:13 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[So here's the scoop, I changed out my clutch with a Spec 2+ clutch which is unsprung, solid hub about 2 months ago. When I got everything back together and finally was able to drive it, I got the classic TOB chatter which was fine, however, with the chatter came a low rumbling and heavy vibration from the center of the car. So the TOB would chatter and if I held it to the point after the chatter, it would rumble and heavy vibrations would occur, but when I would accelerate past the chatter and past the vibrations, everything is fine, no rumble, no vibrations in the driveline.

1 Month into the clutch driving the car sparingly, I finally got to a point where I had no TOB chatter and no rumbling.

Then recently (Tuesday) the chattering and rumbling returned. Kinda stumped as to why...

The only things I can think of are:
Overfilling the Transmission with fluid
Low TC fluid
Low rear diff fluid - This seems the most likely because I did not check the diff fluid when I swapped the clutch

The only problem is, I can't recreate it in any of the other gears, 1-4 no chatter, 5th chatters, 6th chatters and rumbles. I am unsure of what else to look at besides fluid levels. I had the flywheel 2-step machined and the clutch engages like a semi-full face clutch, slightly smooth.

When inspecting the splines on the OS and the spool in the TC, they looked great, no twisting of splines, no cracks in the splines, spool isn't stripped out, teeth are clean, no breaks or twisting. The clutch has 2,500 miles on it.

The only other possibility is bad carrier bearings. When I did the reinstallation of the TC, I had it up and I missed the driveshaft the first time and the jackstand underneath the driveshaft fell and the driveshaft fell but the propeller nose didnt hit the ground, I caught it with my legs but the joint on the stock driveshaft I am not sure if it got stressed or the carrier bearing got stressed.... I wouldn't think so, but who knows...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>So here's the scoop, I changed out my clutch with a Spec 2+ clutch which is unsprung, solid hub about 2 months ago. When I got everything back together and finally was able to drive it, I got the classic TOB chatter which was fine, however, with the chatter came a low rumbling and heavy vibration from the center of the car. So the TOB would chatter and if I held it to the point after the chatter, it would rumble and heavy vibrations would occur, but when I would accelerate past the chatter and past the vibrations, everything is fine, no rumble, no vibrations in the driveline.<br />
<br />
1 Month into the clutch driving the car sparingly, I finally got to a point where I had no TOB chatter and no rumbling.<br />
<br />
Then recently (Tuesday) the chattering and rumbling returned. Kinda stumped as to why...<br />
<br />
The only things I can think of are:<br />
Overfilling the Transmission with fluid<br />
Low TC fluid<br />
Low rear diff fluid - This seems the most likely because I did not check the diff fluid when I swapped the clutch<br />
<br />
The only problem is, I can't recreate it in any of the other gears, 1-4 no chatter, 5th chatters, 6th chatters and rumbles. I am unsure of what else to look at besides fluid levels. I had the flywheel 2-step machined and the clutch engages like a semi-full face clutch, slightly smooth.<br />
<br />
When inspecting the splines on the OS and the spool in the TC, they looked great, no twisting of splines, no cracks in the splines, spool isn't stripped out, teeth are clean, no breaks or twisting. The clutch has 2,500 miles on it.<br />
<br />
The only other possibility is bad carrier bearings. When I did the reinstallation of the TC, I had it up and I missed the driveshaft the first time and the jackstand underneath the driveshaft fell and the driveshaft fell but the propeller nose didnt hit the ground, I caught it with my legs but the joint on the stock driveshaft I am not sure if it got stressed or the carrier bearing got stressed.... I wouldn't think so, but who knows...</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>Boost4VR4</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/transmission-transfer-case-issue-479011/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Billet 6spd end housing</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/billet-6spd-end-housing-478945/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 11 Nov 2009 21:46:44 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>GB  going on


http://www.3si.org/forum/f25/billet-6spd-end-housing-478944/#post5665549</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>GB  going on<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.3si.org/forum/f25/billet-6spd-end-housing-478944/#post5665549" target="_blank">http://www.3si.org/forum/f25/billet-...4/#post5665549</a></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>SnakeSkinner</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/billet-6spd-end-housing-478945/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Gray Vs Blue slave cylinders and cylinder bore size</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/gray-vs-blue-slave-cylinders-cylinder-bore-size-478840/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 10 Nov 2009 17:55:35 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Looking at the search results it isn't really clear which slave cylinder has what bore. Here is what I've found.

The blue very early AWD and FWD slaves are 3/4" bore.

The later AWD slaves (part #MB670290) are 11/16" bore.

From the search results I thought that the gray slave was the better one, but it is the smaller bore.

My question is why did they reduce the bore size? The only thing I can think of is they wanted more throwout bearing travel. Since the master cylinder is going to displace the same amount of fluid no matter what slave is attached to it the slave cylinder with the smaller bore is going to move farther.

I was hoping to reduce my clutch effort and ordered an oem gray slave, but since it is 11/16" bore I do not think it will help anything.

Has anyone intentionally run the FWD slave on an AWD car? I'm concerned about clutch release and would rather have a slightly stiffer pedal than have a clutch that doesn't disengage.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Looking at the search results it isn't really clear which slave cylinder has what bore. Here is what I've found.<br />
<br />
The blue very early AWD and FWD slaves are 3/4" bore.<br />
<br />
The later AWD slaves (part #MB670290) are 11/16" bore.<br />
<br />
From the search results I thought that the gray slave was the better one, but it is the smaller bore.<br />
<br />
My question is why did they reduce the bore size? The only thing I can think of is they wanted more throwout bearing travel. Since the master cylinder is going to displace the same amount of fluid no matter what slave is attached to it the slave cylinder with the smaller bore is going to move farther.<br />
<br />
I was hoping to reduce my clutch effort and ordered an oem gray slave, but since it is 11/16" bore I do not think it will help anything.<br />
<br />
Has anyone intentionally run the FWD slave on an AWD car? I'm concerned about clutch release and would rather have a slightly stiffer pedal than have a clutch that doesn't disengage.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>Forest Gump</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/gray-vs-blue-slave-cylinders-cylinder-bore-size-478840/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>new trans. 3rd gear grind?</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/new-trans-3rd-gear-grind-478836/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 10 Nov 2009 16:57:48 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>hey guys, about 4 or 5 months ago i had to pick up a new trans for my 92 stealth rt tt. When it was put in everything worked fine, but then a couple of months later it started to grind while going into 3rd gear. It doesnt do it every time tho. One day it would grind, and then for the next couple of days it would be fine. Down shifting into 3rd is smooth everytime even when its having its bad day. I havnt really beat on the car alot since i got it. Would the syncros go bad so quickly or could it be soemthing else?

does anyone have any ideas that could help?
thanks</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>hey guys, about 4 or 5 months ago i had to pick up a new trans for my 92 stealth rt tt. When it was put in everything worked fine, but then a couple of months later it started to grind while going into 3rd gear. It doesnt do it every time tho. One day it would grind, and then for the next couple of days it would be fine. Down shifting into 3rd is smooth everytime even when its having its bad day. I havnt really beat on the car alot since i got it. Would the syncros go bad so quickly or could it be soemthing else?<br />
<br />
does anyone have any ideas that could help?<br />
thanks</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>zores</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/new-trans-3rd-gear-grind-478836/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Grinding gears?</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/grinding-gears-478797/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 10 Nov 2009 01:57:15 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>ok i have a 95 vr4 6 speed. car was pretty good when i replaced the t/c. i drove the car for about 2 and half weeks. and my brother comes home form chicago and he asks me to take the car back and i let him. because he didnt have a car to go back he cracked his manifold on his car and couldnt miss another day of school.. before he left we raplaced the oil, put a stock bov on it, and cheaked the fluids in tranny and t/c everything was fine. so after i got the car back i took it for a ride and when i got on it in 1 i tryed to shift in second but it makes a big grinding noise and then goes in. if i try to down shift it to 2 goin at 25 mph. it will grind hard i have to be very gentle with it not to grind when i down shift.. 

i dont no wht could be the problem, the car was fine, could the syncros be bad? 
he told me he didnt beat on the car.. which i dont beleive he drives like a dumm ass, and he told me he had the car at 172mph..  :confused:

so let me know wht you think could of cause the gears to grind out of no where</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>ok i have a 95 vr4 6 speed. car was pretty good when i replaced the t/c. i drove the car for about 2 and half weeks. and my brother comes home form chicago and he asks me to take the car back and i let him. because he didnt have a car to go back he cracked his manifold on his car and couldnt miss another day of school.. before he left we raplaced the oil, put a stock bov on it, and cheaked the fluids in tranny and t/c everything was fine. so after i got the car back i took it for a ride and when i got on it in 1 i tryed to shift in second but it makes a big grinding noise and then goes in. if i try to down shift it to 2 goin at 25 mph. it will grind hard i have to be very gentle with it not to grind when i down shift.. <br />
<br />
i dont no wht could be the problem, the car was fine, could the syncros be bad? <br />
he told me he didnt beat on the car.. which i dont beleive he drives like a dumm ass, and he told me he had the car at 172mph..  :confused:<br />
<br />
so let me know wht you think could of cause the gears to grind out of no where</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>95vr4tt</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/grinding-gears-478797/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>transaxle removal</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/transaxle-removal-478796/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 10 Nov 2009 01:32:34 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I am ready to remove my transaxle, I have all the pre-removal completed and am looking to see if anyone has removed it without a transmission jack.....and if so what is the best way.....also how many bolts hold the transaxle case to the engine.


Pete</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I am ready to remove my transaxle, I have all the pre-removal completed and am looking to see if anyone has removed it without a transmission jack.....and if so what is the best way.....also how many bolts hold the transaxle case to the engine.<br />
<br />
<br />
Pete</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>99 VR4</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/transaxle-removal-478796/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Carrier bearings??</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/carrier-bearings-478716/</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 09 Nov 2009 04:26:12 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello All- new here on 3si!  I just bought a 1991 Stealth R/T TT yesterday, with only 35K miles.  She looks and runs beautifully.  Other than warped rotors and unbalanced wheels, everything is in tip-top shape.  
There is one symptom I have, and it goes like this:  1st gear, let out the clutch and there is a vibration/shudder right under the drivers seat, then disappears quickly with increasing RPM.  Same for 2nd gear.  I can usually bypass this vibration by feathering the clutch a little.  Any suggestions- this seems to be RPM related for sure- tranny shifts like butter through all gears, no clunking on deceleration.  Thanks!!!!</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello All- new here on 3si!  I just bought a 1991 Stealth R/T TT yesterday, with only 35K miles.  She looks and runs beautifully.  Other than warped rotors and unbalanced wheels, everything is in tip-top shape.  <br />
There is one symptom I have, and it goes like this:  1st gear, let out the clutch and there is a vibration/shudder right under the drivers seat, then disappears quickly with increasing RPM.  Same for 2nd gear.  I can usually bypass this vibration by feathering the clutch a little.  Any suggestions- this seems to be RPM related for sure- tranny shifts like butter through all gears, no clunking on deceleration.  Thanks!!!!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>Dr. Stealth</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/carrier-bearings-478716/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>91 TT RT Syncro Bad</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/91-tt-rt-syncro-bad-478679/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 08 Nov 2009 20:19:51 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I just bought a 91 AWD RT TT and need to info about the drivetrain.  I am in the Metro Detroit area.  Can anyone recommend where to get parts and what to repalce while im in there?  It seems that the 2nd gear syncro is bad.  The car has 75k miles and everything is 100% stock.  Thanks!</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I just bought a 91 AWD RT TT and need to info about the drivetrain.  I am in the Metro Detroit area.  Can anyone recommend where to get parts and what to repalce while im in there?  It seems that the 2nd gear syncro is bad.  The car has 75k miles and everything is 100% stock.  Thanks!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>mas8987</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/91-tt-rt-syncro-bad-478679/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Help!  Did I just kill my tranny?</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/help-did-i-just-kill-my-tranny-478621/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 07 Nov 2009 23:58:37 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I posted this moments ago in the new members forum, but just in case it is more topical here, I will post here as well:

Help!

This morning I had some Valvoline synthetic fluid per suggested manufacturer specs in my 6 speed TT tranny. I had it changed to that about a month ago. It was stiff and notching shifting, but I could get into all gears easily, particularily after most of the stiffness from a cold morning dissapated after 15 minutes of driving. It is important to stress here....It was a pretty good shifting car before all this nonsense today!

However, as the morning stiffness was getting more pronounced with the recent cooling in upstate NY, I decided to put Syncromesh in my tranny today. I figured what the heck, I read up on it, and with frequent changes probably wouldn't be so bad..and I could shift alot easier.

So I bought three quarts and headed down to a Pennzoil 10 minute oil change place (they didn't have any Syncromesh in stock) and asked them clearly to just change the tranny fluid with the stuff. Half an hour later I was ripping around town with an increasingly easier to shift car. All gears had smoothed out noticibly, and I even lost the little grind into second (although I always attributed that to the clutch pedal not adjusted right).

So I go home for the afternoon and spend the afternoon installing an EVO IX bov I got off the internet. I go for a quick test drive and the horror began.

For some reason now all of the gears on the top of the shifter (first, third and fifth) are almost impossible to shift into. I can't shift into them so the gear shift notches into them like before, I just kind of push the shifter to where the gear should be, and if I push hard enough the gear engages - barely First is very bad, third and fifth are almost impossible to get into gear now. Massive grinding at times, I can onlypush it halfway to where I feel the gear would fully be engaged. Oddly enough, all the bottom gears still engage like butter. Something significant has changed if I have massive difficulty shifing into all the top gears on the shifter, but all the bottom ones are perfect, right? Did I just kill my tranny with an afternoon of Syrcromesh? This seems almost impossible, it was working so well when I put it in the garage earlier this afternoon? It is almost undriveable right now!!! Christ, please give me some advice, tranny Gurus....I am freaking out here.

Obviously it would not make sense that it had anything to do with the new BOV...right? The kids at the oil change place said it took all 3 quarts of Syncromesh...I thought it would only take 2.5...I wonder if they put it into the transfer case or rear end like idiots....could this do this? Lastly, would it make sense to run down to any 10 minute oil place tomorrow and change all my transaxel, transfer case and rear end fluids to anything factory spec, with anything...other than what I have in there now, or is some kind of damage already done?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I posted this moments ago in the new members forum, but just in case it is more topical here, I will post here as well:<br />
<br />
Help!<br />
<br />
This morning I had some Valvoline synthetic fluid per suggested manufacturer specs in my 6 speed TT tranny. I had it changed to that about a month ago. It was stiff and notching shifting, but I could get into all gears easily, particularily after most of the stiffness from a cold morning dissapated after 15 minutes of driving. It is important to stress here....It was a pretty good shifting car before all this nonsense today!<br />
<br />
However, as the morning stiffness was getting more pronounced with the recent cooling in upstate NY, I decided to put Syncromesh in my tranny today. I figured what the heck, I read up on it, and with frequent changes probably wouldn't be so bad..and I could shift alot easier.<br />
<br />
So I bought three quarts and headed down to a Pennzoil 10 minute oil change place (they didn't have any Syncromesh in stock) and asked them clearly to just change the tranny fluid with the stuff. Half an hour later I was ripping around town with an increasingly easier to shift car. All gears had smoothed out noticibly, and I even lost the little grind into second (although I always attributed that to the clutch pedal not adjusted right).<br />
<br />
So I go home for the afternoon and spend the afternoon installing an EVO IX bov I got off the internet. I go for a quick test drive and the horror began.<br />
<br />
For some reason now all of the gears on the top of the shifter (first, third and fifth) are almost impossible to shift into. I can't shift into them so the gear shift notches into them like before, I just kind of push the shifter to where the gear should be, and if I push hard enough the gear engages - barely First is very bad, third and fifth are almost impossible to get into gear now. Massive grinding at times, I can onlypush it halfway to where I feel the gear would fully be engaged. Oddly enough, all the bottom gears still engage like butter. Something significant has changed if I have massive difficulty shifing into all the top gears on the shifter, but all the bottom ones are perfect, right? Did I just kill my tranny with an afternoon of Syrcromesh? This seems almost impossible, it was working so well when I put it in the garage earlier this afternoon? It is almost undriveable right now!!! Christ, please give me some advice, tranny Gurus....I am freaking out here.<br />
<br />
Obviously it would not make sense that it had anything to do with the new BOV...right? The kids at the oil change place said it took all 3 quarts of Syncromesh...I thought it would only take 2.5...I wonder if they put it into the transfer case or rear end like idiots....could this do this? Lastly, would it make sense to run down to any 10 minute oil place tomorrow and change all my transaxel, transfer case and rear end fluids to anything factory spec, with anything...other than what I have in there now, or is some kind of damage already done?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>the*bear</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/help-did-i-just-kill-my-tranny-478621/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>vr4 DRIVETRAIN SWAP</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/vr4-drivetrain-swap-478422/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 06 Nov 2009 02:54:45 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I Was Wondering If It Is Possible To Bolt In A Vr4 Drivetrain Into A Ls?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I Was Wondering If It Is Possible To Bolt In A Vr4 Drivetrain Into A Ls?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>LKPTFF</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/vr4-drivetrain-swap-478422/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Clutch went out...</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/clutch-went-out-478395/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 05 Nov 2009 21:42:23 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I just got my car back from the shop last Thursday (wheel bearing went out on me and had to get it replaced) and drove it back to campus all happy to have my car back. 

On Friday, the next day, I got in it to go home (in town). After driving for 1/2 mile the clutch got really easy to press. (It's an upgraded, stage 2 I believe, clutch with lots of play minus the last couple inches). Getting it into gear was extremely hard all of a sudden and I was having a tough time getting home. With about a mile left the clutch completely went out. I was forced to, drive up to the stop light, turn my car off, put it in gear, and start the car to get home...

Anyway, so after some research (being a n00b), I've come to find out that it wasn't the clutch that is completely shot but one/both of my hydraulics. So I'm going to just replace both and rebleed the system (correct?). 

Where would you advice getting said cyclinders? 3sx is gonna cost me about 200+$ for parts and shipping for OEM. IPS is looking to be about 175$. Any other suggestions, advice, etc would be greatly appreciated. 

Thanks guys.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I just got my car back from the shop last Thursday (wheel bearing went out on me and had to get it replaced) and drove it back to campus all happy to have my car back. <br />
<br />
On Friday, the next day, I got in it to go home (in town). After driving for 1/2 mile the clutch got really easy to press. (It's an upgraded, stage 2 I believe, clutch with lots of play minus the last couple inches). Getting it into gear was extremely hard all of a sudden and I was having a tough time getting home. With about a mile left the clutch completely went out. I was forced to, drive up to the stop light, turn my car off, put it in gear, and start the car to get home...<br />
<br />
Anyway, so after some research (being a n00b), I've come to find out that it wasn't the clutch that is completely shot but one/both of my hydraulics. So I'm going to just replace both and rebleed the system (correct?). <br />
<br />
Where would you advice getting said cyclinders? 3sx is gonna cost me about 200+$ for parts and shipping for OEM. IPS is looking to be about 175$. Any other suggestions, advice, etc would be greatly appreciated. <br />
<br />
Thanks guys.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>Najawe</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/clutch-went-out-478395/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Best place to go for tranny work?</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/best-place-go-tranny-work-478328/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 05 Nov 2009 02:31:28 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Im in the northwest I was wondering if you guys know of anyone that does good transmission work, my reverse gear is gone.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Im in the northwest I was wondering if you guys know of anyone that does good transmission work, my reverse gear is gone.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>StealthFigher</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/best-place-go-tranny-work-478328/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Is the VCU blown & is SCE Differential worth it?]]></title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/vcu-blown-sce-differential-worth-478253/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 04 Nov 2009 17:29:04 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>So im in the process of building my car..took the tranny apart to put in a 300m output shaft and low and behold found some goo on the VCU...is it going out or already out i have no idea..Ive searched and really havnt come up with a good answer...possibly someone with previous trouble

1.  Will a blown VCU still drive the car
2.  What are the side effects to driving with a blown VCU

SCE will generously take back my 300m output shaft and hook me up with a SCE Center Torque Differential..but is it worth it to spend another $1600 on a center diff after core charges and refund.  I was wanting a few other things for the car before i get this but this may have to be first...any opinions would be great...cause i have had a hard time justifying a $1600 chunk of change

Thought about just converting to rwd and welding it with the 300m..but i think with 700hp the car would be more of a drift car than anything ha...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>So im in the process of building my car..took the tranny apart to put in a 300m output shaft and low and behold found some goo on the VCU...is it going out or already out i have no idea..Ive searched and really havnt come up with a good answer...possibly someone with previous trouble<br />
<br />
1.  Will a blown VCU still drive the car<br />
2.  What are the side effects to driving with a blown VCU<br />
<br />
SCE will generously take back my 300m output shaft and hook me up with a SCE Center Torque Differential..but is it worth it to spend another $1600 on a center diff after core charges and refund.  I was wanting a few other things for the car before i get this but this may have to be first...any opinions would be great...cause i have had a hard time justifying a $1600 chunk of change<br />
<br />
Thought about just converting to rwd and welding it with the 300m..but i think with 700hp the car would be more of a drift car than anything ha...</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>sugarbear7979</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/vcu-blown-sce-differential-worth-478253/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>reinforecd transmission?</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/reinforecd-transmission-478252/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 04 Nov 2009 16:58:44 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[fyi... i have a stock car cept for a boost controller set at 13 psi max

i just had new stage 3 clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate installed... on top of that, they talked me into a transfer case rebuild including driveshaft... last week, the trip passed 600 mi (of the 500 mi reccomended clutch break in)

i decided i'd try a good launch and dumped the clutch at about 4k rpm... :/

the car jerked forward and there was a loud ass thud... and then the car wouldn't go...

got it towed in and they took it apart and i had snapped my driveshaft... they showed it to me and it's a fucking clean cut...

what do i have to do to allow the transmission to handle the power?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>fyi... i have a stock car cept for a boost controller set at 13 psi max<br />
<br />
i just had new stage 3 clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate installed... on top of that, they talked me into a transfer case rebuild including driveshaft... last week, the trip passed 600 mi (of the 500 mi reccomended clutch break in)<br />
<br />
i decided i'd try a good launch and dumped the clutch at about 4k rpm... :/<br />
<br />
the car jerked forward and there was a loud ass thud... and then the car wouldn't go...<br />
<br />
got it towed in and they took it apart and i had snapped my driveshaft... they showed it to me and it's a fucking clean cut...<br />
<br />
what do i have to do to allow the transmission to handle the power?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>monkeyman54942</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/reinforecd-transmission-478252/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Questions for replacement of O/S seal</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/questions-replacement-o-s-seal-478218/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 04 Nov 2009 01:49:38 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>If you could help me with a list of things other than the seal and fluid to get the job done.

Will I be able to get the VCU out of the case with the tranny still in the car? Most of what I could find was just the shaft replacement. No clear cut answer on getting the actual VCU out with out having to remove the tranny. Thanks! This will be the second time I have to replace this seal. All I can say is thanks kormex. I might have a bad bell housing.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>If you could help me with a list of things other than the seal and fluid to get the job done.<br />
<br />
Will I be able to get the VCU out of the case with the tranny still in the car? Most of what I could find was just the shaft replacement. No clear cut answer on getting the actual VCU out with out having to remove the tranny. Thanks! This will be the second time I have to replace this seal. All I can say is thanks kormex. I might have a bad bell housing.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>EvanH</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/questions-replacement-o-s-seal-478218/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[25 & 18 Spline Q's years differences?]]></title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/25-18-spline-qs-years-differences-478147/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 03 Nov 2009 13:13:45 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Alright. I have a few questions about the 6-speed transmission here. Do you determine if it is a 18 or 25 spline by counting the splines on the Transfer case output shaft on the transmission? 

Is the 18 or 25 spline better? Also what years came with the 18 spline and the 25 spline. I currently have a '93 so I have the 5-speed, but I have a 6-speed as well and I want to make sure it is what it is.

Also my car is a '93 VR4, I have a 25 spline jus tlike the 6-speed if I am correct? This mean I wouldn't need a new transfer case or a front drive shaft?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Alright. I have a few questions about the 6-speed transmission here. Do you determine if it is a 18 or 25 spline by counting the splines on the Transfer case output shaft on the transmission? <br />
<br />
Is the 18 or 25 spline better? Also what years came with the 18 spline and the 25 spline. I currently have a '93 so I have the 5-speed, but I have a 6-speed as well and I want to make sure it is what it is.<br />
<br />
Also my car is a '93 VR4, I have a 25 spline jus tlike the 6-speed if I am correct? This mean I wouldn't need a new transfer case or a front drive shaft?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>OneRedVr4</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/25-18-spline-qs-years-differences-478147/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Replacement HKS muffler</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/replacement-hks-muffler-478076/</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 02 Nov 2009 19:39:46 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi,

I have the full Catback HKS exhaust system on my 92 vr4. The mufflers are shot but the rest of the system is fine. I cant seem to find replacement mufflers for that HKS system anywhere.

Assuming I cant find these does anyone have any recommendations for some mufflers I can weld on to the system? I want something with similar sound. Does anyone know where I can get replacements? It looks like HKS only sells the full system. I dont want to pay 800 bucks for a muffler

Thanks</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi,<br />
<br />
I have the full Catback HKS exhaust system on my 92 vr4. The mufflers are shot but the rest of the system is fine. I cant seem to find replacement mufflers for that HKS system anywhere.<br />
<br />
Assuming I cant find these does anyone have any recommendations for some mufflers I can weld on to the system? I want something with similar sound. Does anyone know where I can get replacements? It looks like HKS only sells the full system. I dont want to pay 800 bucks for a muffler<br />
<br />
Thanks</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>Mojo411</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/replacement-hks-muffler-478076/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>What are the Rear LSD options</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/what-rear-lsd-options-478069/</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 02 Nov 2009 18:25:59 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have a bad LSD in my 93 RT/TT rear differential. What are my options? I know Supercar has the Kaaz, but is there a stock replacement or rebuild available? Also, as far as the 5 speed AWD tranny goes, there is the SCE center diff but has anyone tried the 3sx rebuilt VCU?

I need to consider cheap before I dump $1500-$4000 in the drivetrain. I still need to rebuild the engine.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a bad LSD in my 93 RT/TT rear differential. What are my options? I know Supercar has the Kaaz, but is there a stock replacement or rebuild available? Also, as far as the 5 speed AWD tranny goes, there is the SCE center diff but has anyone tried the 3sx rebuilt VCU?<br />
<br />
I need to consider cheap before I dump $1500-$4000 in the drivetrain. I still need to rebuild the engine.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>Beau_Jester</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/what-rear-lsd-options-478069/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>6 spd traqns weight</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/6-spd-traqns-weight-477979/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 01 Nov 2009 19:45:42 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>im going for the ultimate weight reduction, im going to remove the trans.. how much weight should i plan to lose? i know some of you are agenst removing the trans jus to lose some weight but who really needs the power to go anywhere?



accually, im looking to ship a couple around, and i need a rough estimate of the weight. ive searched to forums and cant find it, thanks for the help :)</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>im going for the ultimate weight reduction, im going to remove the trans.. how much weight should i plan to lose? i know some of you are agenst removing the trans jus to lose some weight but who really needs the power to go anywhere?<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
accually, im looking to ship a couple around, and i need a rough estimate of the weight. ive searched to forums and cant find it, thanks for the help :)</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>nkl420</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/6-spd-traqns-weight-477979/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>6 speed GTO Tranny swap questions</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/6-speed-gto-tranny-swap-questions-477956/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 01 Nov 2009 15:01:45 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hey,

I just recently got a hold of a GTO 6 speed tranny and I'm trying to confirm that I understand everything before I swap it in.  The stock USDM trans is labeled W6MG-1-0-FNBR while the JDM is W6MG-1-0-GNCR, correct?  This is how mine are labeled.  Also, I need to swap a 1g (5 spd) rear end into the car with the GTO trans, but how can I identify a 5 speed rear end?  I've never had a 5 speed so I don't know if there is some physical appearance difference or just a label.  Finally, as long as the GTO trans has a 25 spline output shaft, It should bolt right up with no concerns, right?  Is the 6 speed prop. shaft the right length?  Do the 6 speed rear axles work with the 5 speed rear end?

I actually have a 94 stealth TT with a bad trans and a 95 vr4 (my race car) with a good trans.  I'm swapping the good trans out of the vr4 and putting that into the stealth and then putting the GTO trans in the vr4.  Along with removing the aws from the stealth it's going to be a long week!

Thanks in advance!]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hey,<br />
<br />
I just recently got a hold of a GTO 6 speed tranny and I'm trying to confirm that I understand everything before I swap it in.  The stock USDM trans is labeled W6MG-1-0-FNBR while the JDM is W6MG-1-0-GNCR, correct?  This is how mine are labeled.  Also, I need to swap a 1g (5 spd) rear end into the car with the GTO trans, but how can I identify a 5 speed rear end?  I've never had a 5 speed so I don't know if there is some physical appearance difference or just a label.  Finally, as long as the GTO trans has a 25 spline output shaft, It should bolt right up with no concerns, right?  Is the 6 speed prop. shaft the right length?  Do the 6 speed rear axles work with the 5 speed rear end?<br />
<br />
I actually have a 94 stealth TT with a bad trans and a 95 vr4 (my race car) with a good trans.  I'm swapping the good trans out of the vr4 and putting that into the stealth and then putting the GTO trans in the vr4.  Along with removing the aws from the stealth it's going to be a long week!<br />
<br />
Thanks in advance!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>3KGTCRUISER</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/6-speed-gto-tranny-swap-questions-477956/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>CV boot at local auto store?</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/cv-boot-local-auto-store-477882/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 31 Oct 2009 00:45:58 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hey guys i wa swondering if any of you knew if any local auto parts store stock out CV boots? Im looking for the one that goes on the passanger side and goes on whatever that green thing is :D ...Little pic so you can see below

Image: http://i6.ebayimg.com/03/i/000/cb/8e/9d4c_2.JPG </description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hey guys i wa swondering if any of you knew if any local auto parts store stock out CV boots? Im looking for the one that goes on the passanger side and goes on whatever that green thing is :D ...Little pic so you can see below<br />
<br />
<img src="http://i6.ebayimg.com/03/i/000/cb/8e/9d4c_2.JPG" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>TrAb</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/cv-boot-local-auto-store-477882/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Car in shop. Looking for help.</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/car-shop-looking-help-477724/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 29 Oct 2009 00:15:11 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[So I have had about 4 alignments with this car and nobody can get it right. I have it at the local community college auto mechanics. The rears are/ were "locked" siezed or whatever you wish to call it. I have adjustable control arms incase they needed them. I am not familiar with this much at all. 

I'm not sure what I need to get to get it fixed. They said the cams are froze and wont move? Anyone had problem similar to this?

Jon]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>So I have had about 4 alignments with this car and nobody can get it right. I have it at the local community college auto mechanics. The rears are/ were "locked" siezed or whatever you wish to call it. I have adjustable control arms incase they needed them. I am not familiar with this much at all. <br />
<br />
I'm not sure what I need to get to get it fixed. They said the cams are froze and wont move? Anyone had problem similar to this?<br />
<br />
Jon</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>jcr5186</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/car-shop-looking-help-477724/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Sleeve Shaft on Transmission CASE... Problem of LENGTH !!</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/sleeve-shaft-transmission-case-problem-length-477714/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 28 Oct 2009 22:10:33 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello, 

i have 2 weeks ago a problem on my Sleeve Shaft and my Outputshaft... sniff...

6 speed , and 25 splines...

So, i decided to change both, and buy them...



I recieve today the both shafts, but on the new sleeve shaft i have a difference on the length... :(

The old ones have a length of 14cm, and the new ones have 13cm... :eek: 


Why this difference ??  Can i mount it ??  :(

Please HELPPPPPPppp !!!


here you can see the pics :

Image: http://twinturbo.free.fr/sleeve/IMG_2811.JPG 

Image: http://twinturbo.free.fr/sleeve/IMG_2807.JPG 

Image: http://twinturbo.free.fr/sleeve/IMG_2808.JPG 

Image: http://twinturbo.free.fr/sleeve/IMG_2809.JPG 

Image: http://twinturbo.free.fr/sleeve/IMG_2810.JPG 

Image: http://twinturbo.free.fr/sleeve/IMG_2804.JPG 

Image: http://twinturbo.free.fr/sleeve/IMG_2803.JPG </description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello, <br />
<br />
i have 2 weeks ago a problem on my Sleeve Shaft and my Outputshaft... sniff...<br />
<br />
6 speed , and 25 splines...<br />
<br />
So, i decided to change both, and buy them...<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
I recieve today the both shafts, but on the new sleeve shaft i have a difference on the length... :(<br />
<br />
The old ones have a length of 14cm, and the new ones have 13cm... :eek: <br />
<br />
<br />
Why this difference ??  Can i mount it ??  :(<br />
<br />
Please HELPPPPPPppp !!!<br />
<br />
<br />
here you can see the pics :<br />
<br />
<img src="http://twinturbo.free.fr/sleeve/IMG_2811.JPG" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://twinturbo.free.fr/sleeve/IMG_2807.JPG" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://twinturbo.free.fr/sleeve/IMG_2808.JPG" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://twinturbo.free.fr/sleeve/IMG_2809.JPG" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://twinturbo.free.fr/sleeve/IMG_2810.JPG" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
<br />
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			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>twin-turbo</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/sleeve-shaft-transmission-case-problem-length-477714/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>thinking about giving up</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/thinking-about-giving-up-477577/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 27 Oct 2009 20:59:00 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>:(jus got word from the shop, my transmission, and clutch assembly, is completely shot.. there saying $7-10k. ive put everythingi have into getting this car, i dont want to give up, but i jus dont have that kind of money</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>:(jus got word from the shop, my transmission, and clutch assembly, is completely shot.. there saying $7-10k. ive put everythingi have into getting this car, i dont want to give up, but i jus dont have that kind of money</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>nkl420</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/thinking-about-giving-up-477577/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>GTO JDM Gearing Questions for a swap</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/gto-jdm-gearing-questions-swap-477551/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 27 Oct 2009 15:37:08 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I've done some research and from what I can tell, non MR JDM trannies have the same gearing as the US spec cars right? The reason I ask is because I need a vr4 tranny for my 92 vr4 and I found a couple on ebay one w/27k miles on it but he says its from a JDM and he said they are the exact same as the US ones. I just want to make sure before I buy it and hten find out I need to swap rear end gears on my 92 vr4.  thanks in advance.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I've done some research and from what I can tell, non MR JDM trannies have the same gearing as the US spec cars right? The reason I ask is because I need a vr4 tranny for my 92 vr4 and I found a couple on ebay one w/27k miles on it but he says its from a JDM and he said they are the exact same as the US ones. I just want to make sure before I buy it and hten find out I need to swap rear end gears on my 92 vr4.  thanks in advance.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>92RT-TT</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/gto-jdm-gearing-questions-swap-477551/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Changing from 5-speed, to 6-speed Q's.]]></title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/changing-5-speed-6-speed-qs-477424/</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 26 Oct 2009 02:37:08 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have my 6-speed out of my old '98 VR4, I was rear ended and just took the parted I needed off the car. Anyhow, i have a '93 currently, what do I need to chnage to put in the 6-speed, is it worth it, my 5-speed grinds going into 2nd if I go to fast..]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have my 6-speed out of my old '98 VR4, I was rear ended and just took the parted I needed off the car. Anyhow, i have a '93 currently, what do I need to chnage to put in the 6-speed, is it worth it, my 5-speed grinds going into 2nd if I go to fast..</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>OneRedVr4</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/changing-5-speed-6-speed-qs-477424/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>lifters and wing</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/lifters-wing-477382/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 25 Oct 2009 18:02:08 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>my 94 vr-4 has 55k miles. the 60k service will be done next week. Any reason to buy better updated lifters then the ones on ebay? also, I have a hoop wing, but after I had the car re-painted nagaro blue (a very good job with fantastic results) we have misplaced the led light in it. Where can I get a new one?
thank you for all the help.

william:mitsu:</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>my 94 vr-4 has 55k miles. the 60k service will be done next week. Any reason to buy better updated lifters then the ones on ebay? also, I have a hoop wing, but after I had the car re-painted nagaro blue (a very good job with fantastic results) we have misplaced the led light in it. Where can I get a new one?<br />
thank you for all the help.<br />
<br />
william:mitsu:</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>silversurfer</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/lifters-wing-477382/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>just thought id share</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/just-thought-id-share-477361/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 25 Oct 2009 07:48:33 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Ive been having a struggle with this output transfer case. (rear wheel drive gone horrible noise from t case area)car is nov 91 manufacture date so it should be 18 spline right?i bought a t case that was a 25 spline late 92 (oops)and an 18 spline output shaft just in case.so yesterday i went and pulled the t case off anyway to check it out and see what the damage was and guess what. damn 25 spline in the car.so that was cool i guess someone changed it before i bought the car.when i got the t case off the inside splines had just rusted away it was almost smooth where the splines meet. so i put some multipurpose grease on the output shaft and put the new t case in and when i went looking for a 17mm to take the fill plug off,i found a change of oil in the hatch. :D so the car went back together like a dream magically transformed into a 25 spline 5 speed even supplied its own oil change :muahaha:i think ill call her lucky car had been down for about 4 months (i had foot surgery couldn't do anything.)]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Ive been having a struggle with this output transfer case. (rear wheel drive gone horrible noise from t case area)car is nov 91 manufacture date so it should be 18 spline right?i bought a t case that was a 25 spline late 92 (oops)and an 18 spline output shaft just in case.so yesterday i went and pulled the t case off anyway to check it out and see what the damage was and guess what. damn 25 spline in the car.so that was cool i guess someone changed it before i bought the car.when i got the t case off the inside splines had just rusted away it was almost smooth where the splines meet. so i put some multipurpose grease on the output shaft and put the new t case in and when i went looking for a 17mm to take the fill plug off,i found a change of oil in the hatch. :D so the car went back together like a dream magically transformed into a 25 spline 5 speed even supplied its own oil change :muahaha:i think ill call her lucky car had been down for about 4 months (i had foot surgery couldn't do anything.)</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>billweber</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/just-thought-id-share-477361/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>quick tranny question</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/quick-tranny-question-477337/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 24 Oct 2009 21:12:04 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>im in the middle of a tranny swap, but cannot get the fuckin downpipe off.   is there any possible way to get the tranny out without moving the downpipe?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>im in the middle of a tranny swap, but cannot get the fuckin downpipe off.   is there any possible way to get the tranny out without moving the downpipe?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>2004formula</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/quick-tranny-question-477337/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Help!!! Clutch/Pressure Plate Problems</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/help-clutch-pressure-plate-problems-477286/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 24 Oct 2009 02:31:02 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hey guys,

I need some more help in regard to getting my car up and running again. 

My dad and I got everything buttoned up and working. I got into the car, to move it for the first time, started it and nothing happened. You could hear the clutch spinning on the flywheel but no movement. 

This is the same tranny I used on my old motor (mind you its a 92 VR4). The same Fidanza flywheel I used then and a new Spec Stage 3 clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing. 

Being a dumbass I missplaced the installation directions, but my dad and I thought i'd be pretty straight forward.

We removed the tranny and found there are 3 metal clips held on by nickel screws. Thinking this is the problem we re-assembled the transmission and the same symptoms occured...

Once again...when I engage the clutch (let the pedal out), I can hear the clutch disk spinning on the flywheel but no movement, I can totally engage the clutch and the car will not die but keep idling and scratching. Yes we bled the clutch and still no go. 

So does anyone have any ideas?
Am I'm missing something to do with the new pressure plate?
Does anyone have any ideas on spec pressure plate installation?
Doesn't it HAVE to be the pressure plate since the clutch will not fully engage? 

Does anyone have any other ideas???

Thanks in advance, and sorry for the long post.

Levi]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hey guys,<br />
<br />
I need some more help in regard to getting my car up and running again. <br />
<br />
My dad and I got everything buttoned up and working. I got into the car, to move it for the first time, started it and nothing happened. You could hear the clutch spinning on the flywheel but no movement. <br />
<br />
This is the same tranny I used on my old motor (mind you its a 92 VR4). The same Fidanza flywheel I used then and a new Spec Stage 3 clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing. <br />
<br />
Being a dumbass I missplaced the installation directions, but my dad and I thought i'd be pretty straight forward.<br />
<br />
We removed the tranny and found there are 3 metal clips held on by nickel screws. Thinking this is the problem we re-assembled the transmission and the same symptoms occured...<br />
<br />
Once again...when I engage the clutch (let the pedal out), I can hear the clutch disk spinning on the flywheel but no movement, I can totally engage the clutch and the car will not die but keep idling and scratching. Yes we bled the clutch and still no go. <br />
<br />
So does anyone have any ideas?<br />
Am I'm missing something to do with the new pressure plate?<br />
Does anyone have any ideas on spec pressure plate installation?<br />
Doesn't it HAVE to be the pressure plate since the clutch will not fully engage? <br />
<br />
Does anyone have any other ideas???<br />
<br />
Thanks in advance, and sorry for the long post.<br />
<br />
Levi</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>lparrill</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/help-clutch-pressure-plate-problems-477286/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Quick Question - Rear Axle Replacement - Compatible Years?</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/quick-question-rear-axle-replacement-compatible-years-477160/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 22 Oct 2009 18:48:38 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have a 1991 Stealth TT AWD.

I am in the process of replacing a rear axle, but I need to know if axle's from newer years (such as a 1998 vr4) will fit on my car.

Any information would be appreciated. Thank you.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a 1991 Stealth TT AWD.<br />
<br />
I am in the process of replacing a rear axle, but I need to know if axle's from newer years (such as a 1998 vr4) will fit on my car.<br />
<br />
Any information would be appreciated. Thank you.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/">All Wheel Drive - DriveTrain</category>
			<dc:creator>Rajack</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/quick-question-rear-axle-replacement-compatible-years-477160/</guid>
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