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		<title>3000GT/Stealth International Message Center - General</title>
		<link>http://www.3si.org/forum</link>
		<description>General Automotive and 3SI related topics.</description>
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:33:24 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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		<ttl>60</ttl>
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			<url>http://www.3si.org/forum/images/misc/rss.jpg</url>
			<title>3000GT/Stealth International Message Center - General</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum</link>
		</image>
		<item>
			<title>Cheap 99 VR4!...possibly a scam.</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/cheap-99-vr4-possibly-scam-479681/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:24:34 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Either way, if someone is in the area they should check it out. If it's not a scam, wow.

Cars for Sale: 1999 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 in ATLANTA , GA 30359: Coupe Details - 270868004 - AutoTrader.com (http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=p&car_id=270868004&dealer_id=64778933&car_year=1999&rdm=1258748487820&lastStartYear=1981&model=3000GT&num_records=25&systime=&make2=&highlightFirstMakeModel=&start_year=1981&keywordsfyc=&keywordsrep=&engine=&certified=&body_code=0&fuel=&awsp=false&search_type=used&distance=0&marketZipError=false&search_lang=en&showZipError=n&first_record=276&make=MIT&keywords_display=&color=&page_location=findacar%3A%3Aispsearchform&min_price=&drive=&default_sort=priceDESC&seller_type=b&max_mileage=&style_flag=1&sort_type=priceDESC&address=64116&advanced=&end_year=2010&pager.offset=275&doors=&transmission=&max_price=&cardist=677&standard=false&showphototab=true)]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Either way, if someone is in the area they should check it out. If it's not a scam, wow.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=p&amp;car_id=270868004&amp;dealer_id=64778933&amp;car_year=1999&amp;rdm=1258748487820&amp;lastStartYear=1981&amp;model=3000GT&amp;num_records=25&amp;systime=&amp;make2=&amp;highlightFirstMakeModel=&amp;start_year=1981&amp;keywordsfyc=&amp;keywordsrep=&amp;engine=&amp;certified=&amp;body_code=0&amp;fuel=&amp;awsp=false&amp;search_type=used&amp;distance=0&amp;marketZipError=false&amp;search_lang=en&amp;showZipError=n&amp;first_record=276&amp;make=MIT&amp;keywords_display=&amp;color=&amp;page_location=findacar%3A%3Aispsearchform&amp;min_price=&amp;drive=&amp;default_sort=priceDESC&amp;seller_type=b&amp;max_mileage=&amp;style_flag=1&amp;sort_type=priceDESC&amp;address=64116&amp;advanced=&amp;end_year=2010&amp;pager.offset=275&amp;doors=&amp;transmission=&amp;max_price=&amp;cardist=677&amp;standard=false&amp;showphototab=true" target="_blank">Cars for Sale: 1999 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 in ATLANTA , GA 30359: Coupe Details - 270868004 - AutoTrader.com</a></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>onebadmollafoll</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/cheap-99-vr4-possibly-scam-479681/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>I little confused?</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/i-little-confused-479679/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:12:29 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have a 1992 SL FWD and it needs a motor. Looking to buy a 1995 motor that is coming with a clutch. Will the 1995 motor bolt right up to the 1992 transmission? Will the clutch work as well? I have been told it would and i have read that the transmissions are different? Thanks</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a 1992 SL FWD and it needs a motor. Looking to buy a 1995 motor that is coming with a clutch. Will the 1995 motor bolt right up to the 1992 transmission? Will the clutch work as well? I have been told it would and i have read that the transmissions are different? Thanks</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>INSANE REINDEER</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/i-little-confused-479679/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>weight of an evo</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/weight-evo-479671/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:57:40 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>What is the stock weight of an Evo VIII?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>What is the stock weight of an Evo VIII?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>savage1</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/weight-evo-479671/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>WWII in HD</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f174/wwii-hd-479670/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:45:25 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I just finished watching WW II in HD. We need to remember the men and women who served in WWII. At the end, it said only 10% of those who served are still alive today. The generation that did more to shape our world today are dieing off. So, the next time you see a man in his 80's or 90's, there's a good chance he helped get us what we have today. You might want to thank them. :)]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I just finished watching WW II in HD. We need to remember the men and women who served in WWII. At the end, it said only 10% of those who served are still alive today. The generation that did more to shape our world today are dieing off. So, the next time you see a man in his 80's or 90's, there's a good chance he helped get us what we have today. You might want to thank them. :)</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>dsr935</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?t=479670</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Few small gold flakes</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/few-small-gold-flakes-479667/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:26:07 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hey guys,

I am expecting the worst here but here's my story.  I was driving home from work and hit about 6500RPM on the highway shifting from 3-4.

Then crusied on the highway for 5 mins to my off ramp.  When I got on the off ramp I heard a ticking, no louder than regular lifter tick, my car has never had lifter tick since owning it though (luck I guess). 

From the offramp to my house is about a 2 min drive, didn't drive it hard at all to my house.  Shut it down, waited until the next chance I had and did an oil change.  Started the car up after changing oil, no more tick.

When dumping the old oil into the oil container there were a few very small (1/2 a millimeter) gold flakes in the oil.

Best case scenario?
Worst case scenario?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hey guys,<br />
<br />
I am expecting the worst here but here's my story.  I was driving home from work and hit about 6500RPM on the highway shifting from 3-4.<br />
<br />
Then crusied on the highway for 5 mins to my off ramp.  When I got on the off ramp I heard a ticking, no louder than regular lifter tick, my car has never had lifter tick since owning it though (luck I guess). <br />
<br />
From the offramp to my house is about a 2 min drive, didn't drive it hard at all to my house.  Shut it down, waited until the next chance I had and did an oil change.  Started the car up after changing oil, no more tick.<br />
<br />
When dumping the old oil into the oil container there were a few very small (1/2 a millimeter) gold flakes in the oil.<br />
<br />
Best case scenario?<br />
Worst case scenario?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>4wheelpeel</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/few-small-gold-flakes-479667/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Timing off by 3 teeth / 15*</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/timing-off-3-teeth-15-a-479666/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:23:22 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Image: http://i585.photobucket.com/albums/ss299/mezaflash/IMG_3122.jpg 
This is the front bank where the rear cam is off.

Image: http://i585.photobucket.com/albums/ss299/mezaflash/IMG_3123.jpg 
This is the rear bank which is lined up correctly.

Image: http://i585.photobucket.com/albums/ss299/mezaflash/IMG_3124.jpg 
so all 4 marks are lined up but it should be all five that should line up.
What can I do about this. I am doing the 60k service and Im at the step where I have to mark the belt when the timing marks are all lined up, but this cam doesnt.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><img src="http://i585.photobucket.com/albums/ss299/mezaflash/IMG_3122.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
This is the front bank where the rear cam is off.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://i585.photobucket.com/albums/ss299/mezaflash/IMG_3123.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
This is the rear bank which is lined up correctly.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://i585.photobucket.com/albums/ss299/mezaflash/IMG_3124.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
so all 4 marks are lined up but it should be all five that should line up.<br />
What can I do about this. I am doing the 60k service and Im at the step where I have to mark the belt when the timing marks are all lined up, but this cam doesnt.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>meza_Flash</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/timing-off-3-teeth-15-a-479666/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Daily Driver Build?</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/daily-driver-build-479660/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:29:47 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hello. I'm currently attending school and am considering building an engine for my car to use as a dd. I have a stock 94 engine that needs a rebuild anyway so i was thinking...would it be worth it?
Im was planning on boring it out maybe .40 over although i was reading .015 might be safer. getting new internals, port and polish heads/intake, and new cams. would this be worth the amount of money for the power id make. i realize being an na atx it wont be quick as hell.
Just looking for some insight from a more expeirienced mind basically.
Thanks in advance for any help. ill be gone till monday but hopefully i have some nice responses when i come back :D
Robb]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello. I'm currently attending school and am considering building an engine for my car to use as a dd. I have a stock 94 engine that needs a rebuild anyway so i was thinking...would it be worth it?<br />
Im was planning on boring it out maybe .40 over although i was reading .015 might be safer. getting new internals, port and polish heads/intake, and new cams. would this be worth the amount of money for the power id make. i realize being an na atx it wont be quick as hell.<br />
Just looking for some insight from a more expeirienced mind basically.<br />
Thanks in advance for any help. ill be gone till monday but hopefully i have some nice responses when i come back :D<br />
Robb</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>3KGTDiablo</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/daily-driver-build-479660/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>how do i torque the cam pulleys</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/how-do-i-torque-cam-pulleys-479652/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:39:26 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>i just put on new cam seals and etc. now its time to torque the pulleys or sprockets back onto the cams. I dont have a special tool to hold the cam steady while i torque the pulleys onto the cam, i was wondering if anybody has a technique or improvised way to do this..</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>i just put on new cam seals and etc. now its time to torque the pulleys or sprockets back onto the cams. I dont have a special tool to hold the cam steady while i torque the pulleys onto the cam, i was wondering if anybody has a technique or improvised way to do this..</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>dissturbbed</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/how-do-i-torque-cam-pulleys-479652/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>######### 2010 Calendar vote off</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/2010-calendar-vote-off-479646/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 15:12:16 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>The following 3 images are all in the top 14 for the 2010 calendar. 

I do not want to include the same car more than one time. 

Please select your favorite. 

Image 1
Image: http://3sng.org/calendar_2010/submissions/images/09-15-2008_12-41-58.jpg 

Image 2
Image: http://3sng.org/calendar_2010/submissions/images/10-06-2009_10-50-26.jpg 

Image 3
Image: http://3sng.org/calendar_2010/submissions/images/09-15-2008_12-57-27.jpg </description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>The following 3 images are all in the top 14 for the 2010 calendar. <br />
<br />
I do not want to include the same car more than one time. <br />
<br />
Please select your favorite. <br />
<br />
Image 1<br />
<img src="http://3sng.org/calendar_2010/submissions/images/09-15-2008_12-41-58.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
<br />
Image 2<br />
<img src="http://3sng.org/calendar_2010/submissions/images/10-06-2009_10-50-26.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
<br />
Image 3<br />
<img src="http://3sng.org/calendar_2010/submissions/images/09-15-2008_12-57-27.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>Alan92RTTT</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/2010-calendar-vote-off-479646/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Leaving pop ups, up?</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/leaving-pop-ups-up-479638/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 11:23:16 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Will this drain the Battery?

Was installing new rear speakers and radio kept shutting down when volume got high. turns out Battery was dead.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Will this drain the Battery?<br />
<br />
Was installing new rear speakers and radio kept shutting down when volume got high. turns out Battery was dead.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>Kage</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/leaving-pop-ups-up-479638/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA["Battery Fuse" short. Culprits?]]></title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/battery-fuse-short-culprits-479636/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 07:39:31 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[The big green fuse in the engine fuse box is shorted to ground. This causes the ALT fuse to blow. Yes I know, but I pulled every fuse in that box and that's the source of the ground, the battery fuse short causes the others to be grounded as they share a common metal plate. 

Can anybody tell me where this wire goes? One side of that fuse goes to that plate and the other goes down inside the harness. This all happened as the owner was test driving it and the engine started popping and bucking.

Removed and tested both battery and alt, even disconnected the alternator altogether.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>The big green fuse in the engine fuse box is shorted to ground. This causes the ALT fuse to blow. Yes I know, but I pulled every fuse in that box and that's the source of the ground, the battery fuse short causes the others to be grounded as they share a common metal plate. <br />
<br />
Can anybody tell me where this wire goes? One side of that fuse goes to that plate and the other goes down inside the harness. This all happened as the owner was test driving it and the engine started popping and bucking.<br />
<br />
Removed and tested both battery and alt, even disconnected the alternator altogether.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>Mista Grimm</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/battery-fuse-short-culprits-479636/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>DIY Valve Cover Polishing</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/diy-valve-cover-polishing-479628/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 06:23:31 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I came across this thread on another forum 
Metal Polishing How-to - Honda-Tech (http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1464722)
and I thought that it came out really good. I was just wondering if anyone would know if 10 different grits of sand paper would really be necessary or if you could just start off with the 800 or something.
Thanks</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I came across this thread on another forum <br />
<a href="http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1464722" target="_blank">Metal Polishing How-to - Honda-Tech</a><br />
and I thought that it came out really good. I was just wondering if anyone would know if 10 different grits of sand paper would really be necessary or if you could just start off with the 800 or something.<br />
Thanks</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>vlorion</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/diy-valve-cover-polishing-479628/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Are these members?</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/these-members-479627/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 05:50:19 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wsUWt5x_6dc

^Dang?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xSuNaAc4qpk

^SMIC fail?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wsUWt5x_6dc" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wsUWt5x_6dc</a><br />
<br />
^Dang?<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xSuNaAc4qpk" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xSuNaAc4qpk</a><br />
<br />
^SMIC fail?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>Hard AttacK</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/these-members-479627/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Carfax please???</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/carfax-please-479608/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 02:17:11 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>1B4HS58N72F144913

If you have them, could someone run this for me? Thank you!!


-Matt</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>1B4HS58N72F144913<br />
<br />
If you have them, could someone run this for me? Thank you!!<br />
<br />
<br />
-Matt</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>Carnage VR4</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/carfax-please-479608/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Vacuum Reduction Questions and Mod referals :)</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/vacuum-reduction-questions-mod-referals-479606/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 02:09:35 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[i'm about to do the vacuum reduction soon on my 92 Stealth TT and i was wondering when i remove the EGR will my MPG go down? i thought read on here somewhere that it would:confused: i'm getting a boost controller for the reduction. would also love any other good ideas for my car since Christmas is coming up:D? all i have is  
BPU: intake, downpipe w/ stock catback, cats eliminated but still have rear precat, hks bov, and boost gauge, 
mostly looking for a good exhaust, FMIC, and lowering car... or just anything badass:cool:< like this guy lol]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>i'm about to do the vacuum reduction soon on my 92 Stealth TT and i was wondering when i remove the EGR will my MPG go down? i thought read on here somewhere that it would:confused: i'm getting a boost controller for the reduction. would also love any other good ideas for my car since Christmas is coming up:D? all i have is  <br />
BPU: intake, downpipe w/ stock catback, cats eliminated but still have rear precat, hks bov, and boost gauge, <br />
mostly looking for a good exhaust, FMIC, and lowering car... or just anything badass:cool:< like this guy lol</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>vr4-kid</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/vacuum-reduction-questions-mod-referals-479606/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Exhaust setup</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/exhaust-setup-479595/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 21:32:50 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[so when i get back from my deployment i plan on buying a whole new exhaust. the previous owner installed a single side set up and it's very loud and annoying. it sounds like the waste gates are dumping instead of going through the exhaust. it sounds horrible and is kinda embarrassing. 

so i plan on getting the HKS quad tip
HKS CatBack Exhaust TT/VR4 Quad Tip D2*-*Mitsubishi 3000GT*/*Dodge Stealth Parts (http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=28776)

if this is still available, Stillen downpipe
Stillen Downpipe for TT / VR4*-*Mitsubishi 3000GT*/*Dodge Stealth Parts (http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=1054)

and the rear pre cat eliminator
DN Pre-cat Eliminator REAR Pipe Only (Universal)*-*Mitsubishi 3000GT*/*Dodge Stealth Parts (http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_viewItemBundle.asp?idProduct=1069)

or this kit is actually cheaper  Generic TT Stainless Downpipe + Cat Eliminator Kit 3000GT/Stealth*-*Mitsubishi 3000GT*/*Dodge Stealth Parts (http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_viewItemBundle.asp?idProduct=26723)

and i need to get two new O2 sensors. i think mine only has two, the ecu is FED spec. i'm also going to be getting the EGR block off plates EGR Blockoff Plates*-*Mitsubishi 3000GT*/*Dodge Stealth Parts (http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_viewItemBundle.asp?idProduct=1074)

so that should complete my entire exhaust system, making it quieter and sound entirely different. 

anybody have any videos of the HKS exhaust? i can't find it on youtube. i'd like to see what it sounds like.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>so when i get back from my deployment i plan on buying a whole new exhaust. the previous owner installed a single side set up and it's very loud and annoying. it sounds like the waste gates are dumping instead of going through the exhaust. it sounds horrible and is kinda embarrassing. <br />
<br />
so i plan on getting the HKS quad tip<br />
<a href="http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=28776" target="_blank">HKS CatBack Exhaust TT/VR4 Quad Tip D2*-*Mitsubishi 3000GT*/*Dodge Stealth Parts</a><br />
<br />
if this is still available, Stillen downpipe<br />
<a href="http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=1054" target="_blank">Stillen Downpipe for TT / VR4*-*Mitsubishi 3000GT*/*Dodge Stealth Parts</a><br />
<br />
and the rear pre cat eliminator<br />
<a href="http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_viewItemBundle.asp?idProduct=1069" target="_blank">DN Pre-cat Eliminator REAR Pipe Only (Universal)*-*Mitsubishi 3000GT*/*Dodge Stealth Parts</a><br />
<br />
or this kit is actually cheaper  <a href="http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_viewItemBundle.asp?idProduct=26723" target="_blank">Generic TT Stainless Downpipe + Cat Eliminator Kit 3000GT/Stealth*-*Mitsubishi 3000GT*/*Dodge Stealth Parts</a><br />
<br />
and i need to get two new O2 sensors. i think mine only has two, the ecu is FED spec. i'm also going to be getting the EGR block off plates <a href="http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_viewItemBundle.asp?idProduct=1074" target="_blank">EGR Blockoff Plates*-*Mitsubishi 3000GT*/*Dodge Stealth Parts</a><br />
<br />
so that should complete my entire exhaust system, making it quieter and sound entirely different. <br />
<br />
anybody have any videos of the HKS exhaust? i can't find it on youtube. i'd like to see what it sounds like.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>crazysupra2jz</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/exhaust-setup-479595/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>help greddy profec spec ll question</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/help-greddy-profec-spec-ll-question-479590/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 20:56:30 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>i might buy a profec spec 2 unit for  around 50 bucks.....it is the display only...no solenoid. how much is it gonna cost for me to get the rest of the parts to make it work? is this a good deal for the dispaly unit?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>i might buy a profec spec 2 unit for  around 50 bucks.....it is the display only...no solenoid. how much is it gonna cost for me to get the rest of the parts to make it work? is this a good deal for the dispaly unit?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>Lou3000gt</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/help-greddy-profec-spec-ll-question-479590/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Car lock/key issues</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/car-lock-key-issues-479577/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 17:00:39 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi all, 

Well I have been having key issues with my current locks.  I mostly think its the key, but it is the only one i have.  The key is not cut right, you can tell since it is double sided and the sides don't mirror each other exactly.  It will only unlock the driver's side door (passenger and trunk won't turn) and I have to play with the key to get it to turn in the ignition.  

What are my options here?  Can they make a new key somehow from my lock without a working key?  Do I have to buy all new locks?  Any suggestions and if new locks anyone know of pricing?

Thanks]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi all, <br />
<br />
Well I have been having key issues with my current locks.  I mostly think its the key, but it is the only one i have.  The key is not cut right, you can tell since it is double sided and the sides don't mirror each other exactly.  It will only unlock the driver's side door (passenger and trunk won't turn) and I have to play with the key to get it to turn in the ignition.  <br />
<br />
What are my options here?  Can they make a new key somehow from my lock without a working key?  Do I have to buy all new locks?  Any suggestions and if new locks anyone know of pricing?<br />
<br />
Thanks</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>PureN/AHP</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/car-lock-key-issues-479577/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Rack & Pinion Rebuild seal problem, help me please!!]]></title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/rack-pinion-rebuild-seal-problem-help-me-please-479563/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 14:18:19 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I re-sealed my rack recently and all went great, well, all but the inside oil seal which is closest to the driver side, the one way way down in there that you need to tap into place which rests against the metal washer.  Originally, I faced the platic ring side of the seal toward the passenger side (opposide the gear side).   I did this because I tried puting the seal on the shaft out of the rack, just to see which side seemed to go on the easiest, the exploded view that came with the seal kit was worthless, so I didn't know which direction the seal was supposed to go.  I tried facing the plastic ring away from the shaft and it just bent the inner ring of the seal and popped out the retainer spring, so I flipped the seal around, and it popped right on, no problem, so that is the way I put it in the rack.  Well, I read the guide I found on this site, and lead me to believe I had the seal in backwards, to double check, I pulled apart a spare rack I had, and sure enough, it was backwards.  So, I pulled it back out, flipped it back around the way it is supposed to go, and put it all back together, installed, and fluid was gushing out of the seal.  So I pulled it off, pulled it apart and sure enough, when I installed the shaft, the lip pushed enough and popped the spring out and squished between the seal & shaft. 

My question is.....   How the hell do you get the shaft to go through the seal without messing up the seal!! I don't get it.  It seems straight forward, but even when I tried doing it outside of the rack, I could not get the shaft through the seal without pushing in the lip of the seal and/or popping out the spring inside of the seal.  Could someone who has done this please chime in and let me know how they did it. 

Thanks,
-Mike]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I re-sealed my rack recently and all went great, well, all but the inside oil seal which is closest to the driver side, the one way way down in there that you need to tap into place which rests against the metal washer.  Originally, I faced the platic ring side of the seal toward the passenger side (opposide the gear side).   I did this because I tried puting the seal on the shaft out of the rack, just to see which side seemed to go on the easiest, the exploded view that came with the seal kit was worthless, so I didn't know which direction the seal was supposed to go.  I tried facing the plastic ring away from the shaft and it just bent the inner ring of the seal and popped out the retainer spring, so I flipped the seal around, and it popped right on, no problem, so that is the way I put it in the rack.  Well, I read the guide I found on this site, and lead me to believe I had the seal in backwards, to double check, I pulled apart a spare rack I had, and sure enough, it was backwards.  So, I pulled it back out, flipped it back around the way it is supposed to go, and put it all back together, installed, and fluid was gushing out of the seal.  So I pulled it off, pulled it apart and sure enough, when I installed the shaft, the lip pushed enough and popped the spring out and squished between the seal &amp; shaft. <br />
<br />
My question is.....   How the hell do you get the shaft to go through the seal without messing up the seal!! I don't get it.  It seems straight forward, but even when I tried doing it outside of the rack, I could not get the shaft through the seal without pushing in the lip of the seal and/or popping out the spring inside of the seal.  Could someone who has done this please chime in and let me know how they did it. <br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
-Mike</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>Ben_Pow!!</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/rack-pinion-rebuild-seal-problem-help-me-please-479563/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>crash..over 3 years ago..</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/crash-over-3-years-ago-479560/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 08:26:37 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[so i found an old phone of mine and i decided to boot it up.. found these pics of my old ride.. brought back so many memories.. wasnt too bit of a contributor to this forum, but i was on constantly.. i loved these cars so much.. dad flipped it on the way up from la.. i was in passenger seat and was ko by it. he was okay.. glad i made it out alive.. 

Image: http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e132/vitasoyaznboy/IMG_0660.jpg 

Image: http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e132/vitasoyaznboy/IMG_0659.jpg 

Image: http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e132/vitasoyaznboy/IMG_0658.jpg 

super bad q.. pic of a pic from an old cell..

moved onto a 90 talon tsi awd afterwards.. then back to a 92 3kgt lol.. 
now im drivin an RSX-S -_____- miss the torque... but its dependable lol
used to spend hours on here.. brings back good memories.. still lookin for a VR4 once i rack in more dough... and hopefully i'll be back lols]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>so i found an old phone of mine and i decided to boot it up.. found these pics of my old ride.. brought back so many memories.. wasnt too bit of a contributor to this forum, but i was on constantly.. i loved these cars so much.. dad flipped it on the way up from la.. i was in passenger seat and was ko by it. he was okay.. glad i made it out alive.. <br />
<br />
<img src="http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e132/vitasoyaznboy/IMG_0660.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e132/vitasoyaznboy/IMG_0659.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e132/vitasoyaznboy/IMG_0658.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
<br />
super bad q.. pic of a pic from an old cell..<br />
<br />
moved onto a 90 talon tsi awd afterwards.. then back to a 92 3kgt lol.. <br />
now im drivin an RSX-S -_____- miss the torque... but its dependable lol<br />
used to spend hours on here.. brings back good memories.. still lookin for a VR4 once i rack in more dough... and hopefully i'll be back lols</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>systemid</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/crash-over-3-years-ago-479560/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>short bus question</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/short-bus-question-479557/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 06:35:31 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Ok i feel like a total idiot right now. So i know my etacs is fried. Goin off of what every one told me i pulled the computer from the kick panel below the fuse box and ordered another one. well turns out that the turn signal computer, SO where is the etacs located at? I have the manuals but they dont really say were its at and i did a search and thats were i had gotten part of the info sayn it was in the kick panel</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Ok i feel like a total idiot right now. So i know my etacs is fried. Goin off of what every one told me i pulled the computer from the kick panel below the fuse box and ordered another one. well turns out that the turn signal computer, SO where is the etacs located at? I have the manuals but they dont really say were its at and i did a search and thats were i had gotten part of the info sayn it was in the kick panel</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>Raverthug</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/short-bus-question-479557/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Lower Control Arm Removal....stupid bolt</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/lower-control-arm-removal-stupid-bolt-479556/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 06:30:35 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm trying to remove my front lower control arms, and am having a hell of a time.  For the driver side, it was easy.  Remove the 2 nuts and 2 bolts on the rear bracket, remove the nut on the front mount, slide the bolt out.  No problem.

On the passenger side, removed the 2 nuts and bolts on the bracket, remove the nut on the front mount....whack at the bolt for about 2 hours, intermittently spraying PB Blaster, move around at odd angles trying to shifting the bolt back and forth with a breaker bar, hit it with a hammer, spray more PB Blaster, and not have it move an inch.

Anybody have any ideas?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I'm trying to remove my front lower control arms, and am having a hell of a time.  For the driver side, it was easy.  Remove the 2 nuts and 2 bolts on the rear bracket, remove the nut on the front mount, slide the bolt out.  No problem.<br />
<br />
On the passenger side, removed the 2 nuts and bolts on the bracket, remove the nut on the front mount....whack at the bolt for about 2 hours, intermittently spraying PB Blaster, move around at odd angles trying to shifting the bolt back and forth with a breaker bar, hit it with a hammer, spray more PB Blaster, and not have it move an inch.<br />
<br />
Anybody have any ideas?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>Shigun</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/lower-control-arm-removal-stupid-bolt-479556/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Blown VCU+Snow=?</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/blown-vcu-snow-479548/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 05:16:53 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm pretty sure 90% of our cars that are running stock VCU's are blown, I've read a few statements from people who specialize in our trannys even say they've never come across a properly working one, so to say 90% are blown is probably an understatement, right? ha

I've read a lot about how great these cars handle in the snow, but I'd think, with a blown VCU, it's an open diff, so power's going to go to the least resistance and being these cars are rear biased, they'd be more predominant to send power to the rear making them kinda shitty in the snow, but that contradicts what I've read.

Would a welded VCU be a quick fix? The tranny in the TT is trash. I took the car out last winter and made it about 20 feet and said F#@* That! It had street tires on though too. 

I'm not currently driving my TT nor my Base, they both need tires, so I'm wonderin which would be better to get tires for, though the TT needs wheel bearings all around before she gets driven...I'm just diein to drive the damn car since I've had it over a year now and haven't gotten it up to par to be a DD...I'm stuck drivin my parents GSX and I'm gettin an itch for some TT power lol and that damn thing goes *GOOD* in snow and ice!]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I'm pretty sure 90% of our cars that are running stock VCU's are blown, I've read a few statements from people who specialize in our trannys even say they've never come across a properly working one, so to say 90% are blown is probably an understatement, right? ha<br />
<br />
I've read a lot about how great these cars handle in the snow, but I'd think, with a blown VCU, it's an open diff, so power's going to go to the least resistance and being these cars are rear biased, they'd be more predominant to send power to the rear making them kinda shitty in the snow, but that contradicts what I've read.<br />
<br />
Would a welded VCU be a quick fix? The tranny in the TT is trash. I took the car out last winter and made it about 20 feet and said F#@* That! It had street tires on though too. <br />
<br />
I'm not currently driving my TT nor my Base, they both need tires, so I'm wonderin which would be better to get tires for, though the TT needs wheel bearings all around before she gets driven...I'm just diein to drive the damn car since I've had it over a year now and haven't gotten it up to par to be a DD...I'm stuck drivin my parents GSX and I'm gettin an itch for some TT power lol and that damn thing goes <b>GOOD</b> in snow and ice!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>Nihil</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/blown-vcu-snow-479548/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Little Help</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/little-help-479542/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 04:48:29 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have a 91 Dodge Stealth R/T TT and I was wondering if a 93-99 oil pump will work for it. Because I need to replace it but it's easier to find a 93-99 oil pump if not are the gaskets the same?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a 91 Dodge Stealth R/T TT and I was wondering if a 93-99 oil pump will work for it. Because I need to replace it but it's easier to find a 93-99 oil pump if not are the gaskets the same?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>DPhoenixA</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/little-help-479542/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Help replacing a light in the dash?</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/help-replacing-light-dash-479521/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:40:20 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I need someone to help me out with fixing a light that is out in my dashboard.  Only one light is out.  Its the one that illuminates the passenger side of the climate control dials.  so the red/blue temp dial is totally dark at night.  I got to the very small bulb that illuminates that part of the dash, but could not see how to take it out (didn't want to break it.)  Is it just a fuse that's out?  I check that and do not think that is the problem...
thanks all that reply!  it's on a 1998 base model btw]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I need someone to help me out with fixing a light that is out in my dashboard.  Only one light is out.  Its the one that illuminates the passenger side of the climate control dials.  so the red/blue temp dial is totally dark at night.  I got to the very small bulb that illuminates that part of the dash, but could not see how to take it out (didn't want to break it.)  Is it just a fuse that's out?  I check that and do not think that is the problem...<br />
thanks all that reply!  it's on a 1998 base model btw</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>metalextremeist</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/help-replacing-light-dash-479521/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Need Carfax Report Please</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/need-carfax-report-please-479519/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 23:54:21 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>VIN: 1HGCA5524HA069251

Please let me know if you can help

Thanks
Jon Yonke</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>VIN: 1HGCA5524HA069251<br />
<br />
Please let me know if you can help<br />
<br />
Thanks<br />
Jon Yonke</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>Monster Stealth</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/need-carfax-report-please-479519/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>6g72 powered Audi</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/6g72-powered-audi-479515/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 22:54:38 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[i accidently found this and it's a cool project. 
My Fab Project: 6g72 Powered Audi (Many Pics) - Honda-Tech (http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2494829)]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>i accidently found this and it's a cool project. <br />
<a href="http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2494829" target="_blank">My Fab Project: 6g72 Powered Audi (Many Pics) - Honda-Tech</a></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>Devilmightcry</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/6g72-powered-audi-479515/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>free carfax......</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/free-carfax-479514/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 22:41:36 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>ok today i will be giving free carfax to anyone with a 94 or 95 3000gt base,SL, or VR4.......everyday i will be offering free carfax for a different year or type. just give me your email and VIN

ONLY 1994 and 1995 3000gt base, SL, and VR4</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>ok today i will be giving free carfax to anyone with a 94 or 95 3000gt base,SL, or VR4.......everyday i will be offering free carfax for a different year or type. just give me your email and VIN<br />
<br />
ONLY 1994 and 1995 3000gt base, SL, and VR4</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>Lou3000gt</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/free-carfax-479514/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Coolant leaking got worse.</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/coolant-leaking-got-worse-479506/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 21:26:19 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[1996 3000gt Basemodel.

It's been leaking coolant for a while now but i think it got worst, thermostat, radiator cap, and radiator are working fine, they were are replaced. But there's coolant coming from the center area of the engine bay, at least thas what it looks like from the bottom.
I stuck my hand and found where a bunch of coolant was slowing dripped from, it was around a smooth cylinder piece or something. Leak stops with the radiator cap on. but once i take it off, it'll start dripping again. 

I'm getting irritated, I probably have to find another means of transportation to go see my girl this friday. fali4wjunefo9paiu2nfam;loiuwfema;owiem

Anyone has a clue whas wrong with it and know anything that can help?

Buying coolant is annoying as hell now.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>1996 3000gt Basemodel.<br />
<br />
It's been leaking coolant for a while now but i think it got worst, thermostat, radiator cap, and radiator are working fine, they were are replaced. But there's coolant coming from the center area of the engine bay, at least thas what it looks like from the bottom.<br />
I stuck my hand and found where a bunch of coolant was slowing dripped from, it was around a smooth cylinder piece or something. Leak stops with the radiator cap on. but once i take it off, it'll start dripping again. <br />
<br />
I'm getting irritated, I probably have to find another means of transportation to go see my girl this friday. fali4wjunefo9paiu2nfam;loiuwfema;owiem<br />
<br />
Anyone has a clue whas wrong with it and know anything that can help?<br />
<br />
Buying coolant is annoying as hell now.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>Songha</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/coolant-leaking-got-worse-479506/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Mods: WTF?</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/mods-wtf-479502/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 20:31:01 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Why did my other thread get locked?

http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/guaging-interest-poly-motor-mounts-478352/index3.html

We had 3 interested people and we only need 10. What's the deal?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Why did my other thread get locked?<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/guaging-interest-poly-motor-mounts-478352/index3.html" target="_blank">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/guaging-...52/index3.html</a><br />
<br />
We had 3 interested people and we only need 10. What's the deal?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>hated</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/mods-wtf-479502/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Which is better and why</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/better-why-479495/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 19:32:06 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm trying to understand why people think one is better than the other and which one you would personally pick... I want to know not just which one you like but compare the two with or without mods in... 
Auto Cross
NHRA
SCC
Time Attack
Drift (lol yes awd can be drifted)
Daily Driven

Also, If you pick one please explain what you think are the pros and cons of the car over all the others. As for me I'm bias and would go with the 3k VR4 over any other with the right mod setup. I think it has the potential for the best well rounded car out of them all and look the best :)

One more thing... This is not a bashing thread and just people's opinions. So NO flaming people for their personal views, and be respectful please... All are welcome to come and discuss.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I'm trying to understand why people think one is better than the other and which one you would personally pick... I want to know not just which one you like but compare the two with or without mods in... <br />
Auto Cross<br />
NHRA<br />
SCC<br />
Time Attack<br />
Drift (lol yes awd can be drifted)<br />
Daily Driven<br />
<br />
Also, If you pick one please explain what you think are the pros and cons of the car over all the others. As for me I'm bias and would go with the 3k VR4 over any other with the right mod setup. I think it has the potential for the best well rounded car out of them all and look the best :)<br />
<br />
One more thing... This is not a bashing thread and just people's opinions. So NO flaming people for their personal views, and be respectful please... All are welcome to come and discuss.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>blkdrgn</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/better-why-479495/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Heater stopped working, not heater core..</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/heater-stopped-working-not-heater-core-479494/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 19:17:51 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[The heat out of my vents stopped working, at the same time it got REALLY cold here in Utah. I kept forgetting to post/search..



My 93 SOHC has 277K miles on it! The heater always worked great, core not clogged up or leaking.
The heat just suddenly stopped working at once, and the knob on the right to turn between hot-cold doesn't feel regular anymore.
I figured it was a problem between the selection of hot-cold, NOT a problem with the heater core being clogged.
???]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>The heat out of my vents stopped working, at the same time it got REALLY cold here in Utah. I kept forgetting to post/search..<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
My 93 SOHC has 277K miles on it! The heater always worked great, core not clogged up or leaking.<br />
The heat just suddenly stopped working at once, and the knob on the right to turn between hot-cold doesn't feel regular anymore.<br />
I figured it was a problem between the selection of hot-cold, NOT a problem with the heater core being clogged.<br />
???</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>TajMan</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/heater-stopped-working-not-heater-core-479494/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Driver Side Switch Pack</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/driver-side-switch-pack-479482/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 16:50:27 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I was in the middle or repairing the Driver Side switch pack (windows, door lock and window lock).  During the repair I bumped the switches and the window lock switch decided to blow up....I now have a spring a small armed spring (looks live a V), the plastic part with the contacts and the front part of the switch itself.  And a long skinny spring.  With all of that said does anyone know where I can find a schematic of this switch pack?  I just don't know where all of these parts go.

Thanks.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I was in the middle or repairing the Driver Side switch pack (windows, door lock and window lock).  During the repair I bumped the switches and the window lock switch decided to blow up....I now have a spring a small armed spring (looks live a V), the plastic part with the contacts and the front part of the switch itself.  And a long skinny spring.  With all of that said does anyone know where I can find a schematic of this switch pack?  I just don't know where all of these parts go.<br />
<br />
Thanks.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>hitman17</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/driver-side-switch-pack-479482/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Speedo problem!!</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/speedo-problem-479480/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 16:34:38 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Just like the title says my speedo works great on the first start of the day.It will work perfect for the first 10 to 15 min's or miles but then it starts jumping down between 0 and whatever speed i'm going.About 45 seconds after that it just drops to 0 and will not work the rest of the day!I just did a check for boost leak and I had the ecu rebuilt.New short block IPS street heads and 13g's.Speedo is last issue to figure out.Sorry for the long read and thanks for your help!!

(ps) car runs like a raped ape:muahaha:]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Just like the title says my speedo works great on the first start of the day.It will work perfect for the first 10 to 15 min's or miles but then it starts jumping down between 0 and whatever speed i'm going.About 45 seconds after that it just drops to 0 and will not work the rest of the day!I just did a check for boost leak and I had the ecu rebuilt.New short block IPS street heads and 13g's.Speedo is last issue to figure out.Sorry for the long read and thanks for your help!!<br />
<br />
(ps) car runs like a raped ape:muahaha:</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>bubba army VR4</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/speedo-problem-479480/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Over torqueing pressure plate bolts</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/over-torqueing-pressure-plate-bolts-479472/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 14:45:27 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have seen posts on here recommending a little more torque on the pressure plate, specifically from maTT. 

I also saw that ACT recommends installing grade 8 fasteners and torqueing to 30 lbs.

The stock fasteners appear to be approx metric grade 8.8 which is about grade 5 in sae terms.

When I installed my pressure plate last night I was targeting about 16 ft/lbs which is at the upper limit of factory recommendations. I noticed that I had snugged them down to about 18 lbs before I even got the torque wrench out.

I set the torque wrench to 20 ft/lbs and all of the bolts torqued just fine with no signs of the bolts yielding.

From what I have read around 18-20 is about the max for an 8mm grade 5 fasteners.

Does anyone see any harm in  this or has anyone had experience with this before? The only thing I am worried about is that possible the bolts have lost some strength, although they felt perfectly fine.

I have not had pressure plate bolts walk out and I always use loctite, but the idea behind running more torque is that the heavier pressure plates could use more clamping force at the bolts and some people have had their pressure plate bolts walk out torquing them to the factory low end of 13 ft/lbs.

I'm considering buying grade 8 fasteners and torquing back to 20 ft/lbs, but if others have run the stock bolts this tight I'm not going to worry about it.



Edit: Here is an exceprt from ACT:

ACT PRESSURE PLATE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

Once the inspection is complete and you have determined that there are no issues or problems with the existing clutch or operating system, installation of the new clutch can be accomplished as follows (note: every vehicle and clutch design is different and may vary):

   1. Lightly grease the splines of the disc and slide the new disc on the input shaft to insure fit and smooth travel, and wipe off any excess grease. Replace Pilot bearing/bushing, and apply a light coat of motor oil to bushings, or high temperature bearing grease to needle-type bearings.

   2. Use an alignment tool to center the disc against the flywheel. Manually tighten pressure plate bolts using a star or diagonal pattern. ACT recommends using metric grade 10.9 (SAE grade 8) or stronger fasteners. The use of high temperature thread locking compound is recommended for performance applications. Tightening torque specifications will vary with bolt size and grade. The following torque specifications are recommended by ACT for new pressure plate bolts with the corresponding sizes using metric grade 10.9 or SAE grade 8 bolts:

      7mm x 1.0 	15 ftlbs / 20Nm
      8mm x 1.0 	25 ftlbs / 34Nm
      8mm x 1.25 	26 ftlbs / 35Nm
      10mm x 1.25 	50 ftlbs / 68Nm
      10mm x 1.5 	50 ftlbs / 68Nm
      	
      5/16 x 18 	29 ftlbs / 39Nm
      5/16 x 24 	29 ftlbs / 39Nm
      3/8 x 16 	45 ftlbs / 61Nm
      3/8 x 24 	48 ftlbs / 65Nm

      If you choose factory standard bolts and are unsure of the grade of fastener, use the factory recommended torque values.

   3. Lightly lubricate the release bearing inside diameter and the mating surfaces between the fork and releaser. Lubricate the clutch linkage as recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.

   4. Make sure all bellhousing dowels are in correct position and tighten bellhousing bolts. Any misalignment will result in premature clutch failure. Correctly support the transmission during installation. Neglecting to do so may cause clutch damage and premature failure.

   5. Adjust the clutch release system by following the vehicle manufacturer&#8217;s procedures and specifications. Recommended break in for ACT Street Discs is 200-300 miles of mild street driving. Avoid driving habits that would allow excessive slipping or overheating of the clutch. Failure to properly break in the ACT Street Discs may result in clutch damage and premature failure.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have seen posts on here recommending a little more torque on the pressure plate, specifically from maTT. <br />
<br />
I also saw that ACT recommends installing grade 8 fasteners and torqueing to 30 lbs.<br />
<br />
The stock fasteners appear to be approx metric grade 8.8 which is about grade 5 in sae terms.<br />
<br />
When I installed my pressure plate last night I was targeting about 16 ft/lbs which is at the upper limit of factory recommendations. I noticed that I had snugged them down to about 18 lbs before I even got the torque wrench out.<br />
<br />
I set the torque wrench to 20 ft/lbs and all of the bolts torqued just fine with no signs of the bolts yielding.<br />
<br />
From what I have read around 18-20 is about the max for an 8mm grade 5 fasteners.<br />
<br />
Does anyone see any harm in  this or has anyone had experience with this before? The only thing I am worried about is that possible the bolts have lost some strength, although they felt perfectly fine.<br />
<br />
I have not had pressure plate bolts walk out and I always use loctite, but the idea behind running more torque is that the heavier pressure plates could use more clamping force at the bolts and some people have had their pressure plate bolts walk out torquing them to the factory low end of 13 ft/lbs.<br />
<br />
I'm considering buying grade 8 fasteners and torquing back to 20 ft/lbs, but if others have run the stock bolts this tight I'm not going to worry about it.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Edit: Here is an exceprt from ACT:<br />
<br />
ACT PRESSURE PLATE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS<br />
<br />
Once the inspection is complete and you have determined that there are no issues or problems with the existing clutch or operating system, installation of the new clutch can be accomplished as follows (note: every vehicle and clutch design is different and may vary):<br />
<br />
   1. Lightly grease the splines of the disc and slide the new disc on the input shaft to insure fit and smooth travel, and wipe off any excess grease. Replace Pilot bearing/bushing, and apply a light coat of motor oil to bushings, or high temperature bearing grease to needle-type bearings.<br />
<br />
   2. Use an alignment tool to center the disc against the flywheel. Manually tighten pressure plate bolts using a star or diagonal pattern. ACT recommends using metric grade 10.9 (SAE grade 8) or stronger fasteners. The use of high temperature thread locking compound is recommended for performance applications. Tightening torque specifications will vary with bolt size and grade. The following torque specifications are recommended by ACT for new pressure plate bolts with the corresponding sizes using metric grade 10.9 or SAE grade 8 bolts:<br />
<br />
      7mm x 1.0 	15 ftlbs / 20Nm<br />
      8mm x 1.0 	25 ftlbs / 34Nm<br />
      8mm x 1.25 	26 ftlbs / 35Nm<br />
      10mm x 1.25 	50 ftlbs / 68Nm<br />
      10mm x 1.5 	50 ftlbs / 68Nm<br />
      	<br />
      5/16 x 18 	29 ftlbs / 39Nm<br />
      5/16 x 24 	29 ftlbs / 39Nm<br />
      3/8 x 16 	45 ftlbs / 61Nm<br />
      3/8 x 24 	48 ftlbs / 65Nm<br />
<br />
      If you choose factory standard bolts and are unsure of the grade of fastener, use the factory recommended torque values.<br />
<br />
   3. Lightly lubricate the release bearing inside diameter and the mating surfaces between the fork and releaser. Lubricate the clutch linkage as recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.<br />
<br />
   4. Make sure all bellhousing dowels are in correct position and tighten bellhousing bolts. Any misalignment will result in premature clutch failure. Correctly support the transmission during installation. Neglecting to do so may cause clutch damage and premature failure.<br />
<br />
   5. Adjust the clutch release system by following the vehicle manufacturer&#8217;s procedures and specifications. Recommended break in for ACT Street Discs is 200-300 miles of mild street driving. Avoid driving habits that would allow excessive slipping or overheating of the clutch. Failure to properly break in the ACT Street Discs may result in clutch damage and premature failure.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>Forest Gump</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/over-torqueing-pressure-plate-bolts-479472/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>-ImagiNe VR4 Project</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/imagine-vr4-project-479465/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 10:18:04 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hey everyone! My name is Brandon. Well I recently bought a 1993 VR4 down in texas from SuperMario_3kGT. Great seller. Well I drove down to texas from oklahoma to pick it up and tow it home. About 650 miles round trip. Longest drive I've done since my drive from arizona. Well when I bought the car it had no engine no transmission and alot of parts. I havn't had a car since last year when I sold my base model to my best friend. I thought it threw a rod but all it was was the waterpump locked up and it had a slightly bent rod. Basically he got a car for $500 and only cost him about $500 to fix it. Well after all this time of having no car I found a good VR4 that I could work on.

The people who will be doing all the work are my bestfriend John, my girlfriend Klynn and I Brandon. Havn't ever done anything like this so this is going to be a learn as we go. Lol!

Image: http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa298/chamberlain_1990/0818092010-003.jpg 
Brandon

Image: http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa298/chamberlain_1990/l_d40822cdd1a44c7b8e06767af1893a45.jpg 
My Girlfriend Klynn

Image: http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa298/chamberlain_1990/1105091745-04.jpg 
My brother Johnathan

My old 3000GT Base
Image: http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa298/chamberlain_1990/0805091932-00.jpg 

VR4 at the house before I take it to our Shop.

Image: http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa298/chamberlain_1990/1006091553-01.jpg 

Image: http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa298/chamberlain_1990/1006091553-03.jpg 

Image: http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa298/chamberlain_1990/1006091554-00.jpg 

Image: http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa298/chamberlain_1990/1006091557-00.jpg 

Image: http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa298/chamberlain_1990/1006091600-01.jpg 


Okay it's time to start my project.

Image: http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa298/chamberlain_1990/1114091956-01.jpg 

Well I'm going with the cheaper parts first. Usually most people will order and engine and stuff like that but I'll get that later. Well the car is orginally suppose to be a 5-Speed, but I've wanted a 6-Speed for a long time so I figured I would start with that and do it the first time instead of going back and spending more money after I get it up.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hey everyone! My name is Brandon. Well I recently bought a 1993 VR4 down in texas from SuperMario_3kGT. Great seller. Well I drove down to texas from oklahoma to pick it up and tow it home. About 650 miles round trip. Longest drive I've done since my drive from arizona. Well when I bought the car it had no engine no transmission and alot of parts. I havn't had a car since last year when I sold my base model to my best friend. I thought it threw a rod but all it was was the waterpump locked up and it had a slightly bent rod. Basically he got a car for $500 and only cost him about $500 to fix it. Well after all this time of having no car I found a good VR4 that I could work on.<br />
<br />
The people who will be doing all the work are my bestfriend John, my girlfriend Klynn and I Brandon. Havn't ever done anything like this so this is going to be a learn as we go. Lol!<br />
<br />
<img src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa298/chamberlain_1990/0818092010-003.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
Brandon<br />
<br />
<img src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa298/chamberlain_1990/l_d40822cdd1a44c7b8e06767af1893a45.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
My Girlfriend Klynn<br />
<br />
<img src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa298/chamberlain_1990/1105091745-04.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
My brother Johnathan<br />
<br />
My old 3000GT Base<br />
<img src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa298/chamberlain_1990/0805091932-00.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
<br />
VR4 at the house before I take it to our Shop.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa298/chamberlain_1990/1006091553-01.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa298/chamberlain_1990/1006091553-03.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa298/chamberlain_1990/1006091554-00.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa298/chamberlain_1990/1006091557-00.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa298/chamberlain_1990/1006091600-01.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
<br />
<br />
Okay it's time to start my project.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa298/chamberlain_1990/1114091956-01.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
<br />
Well I'm going with the cheaper parts first. Usually most people will order and engine and stuff like that but I'll get that later. Well the car is orginally suppose to be a 5-Speed, but I've wanted a 6-Speed for a long time so I figured I would start with that and do it the first time instead of going back and spending more money after I get it up.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>-ImagiNe</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/imagine-vr4-project-479465/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>After 240K miles, need a Stealth TT replace/rebuild</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/after-240k-miles-need-stealth-tt-replace-rebuild-479464/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 08:50:13 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I don't want to give up my '94 Stealth and the only thing that needs work is the engine (every time I take it in, I get a note about oil all over the undercarriage). I'm not a garage rat (I don't even change my own oil!) and am currently trying to figure out whether a replacement or a rebuild is in order. I have to figure it out by next May - it likely won't pass smog check then.

The 6G72 seems to be pretty rare nowadays, so I'm thinking a rebuild might be my only way forward. However, I just saw that a 6G74 might work too, but it comes with a number of cons, one being emissions. Since I live in California, that's pretty important.

So .. any recommendations, and if so, what might I be looking at for cost? Also, if there is someone in Northern California (from SF Bay Area and north...) that can recommend someone they trust to do it right, I'd sure appreciate it. (I have someone local, but decided to check around first.)

Thanks.

- Billy]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I don't want to give up my '94 Stealth and the only thing that needs work is the engine (every time I take it in, I get a note about oil all over the undercarriage). I'm not a garage rat (I don't even change my own oil!) and am currently trying to figure out whether a replacement or a rebuild is in order. I have to figure it out by next May - it likely won't pass smog check then.<br />
<br />
The 6G72 seems to be pretty rare nowadays, so I'm thinking a rebuild might be my only way forward. However, I just saw that a 6G74 might work too, but it comes with a number of cons, one being emissions. Since I live in California, that's pretty important.<br />
<br />
So .. any recommendations, and if so, what might I be looking at for cost? Also, if there is someone in Northern California (from SF Bay Area and north...) that can recommend someone they trust to do it right, I'd sure appreciate it. (I have someone local, but decided to check around first.)<br />
<br />
Thanks.<br />
<br />
- Billy</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>cuhnayjun</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/after-240k-miles-need-stealth-tt-replace-rebuild-479464/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Which Aem Wide Band gauge should I get?</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/aem-wide-band-gauge-should-i-get-479463/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 08:13:52 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I know im going aem wideband as with the setup im going to run its the only way to go .... but im torn between which gauge I should get was worderin if you guys had any input as to  which one you got and why

setup:

td04 16ts
550cc inj
fuel pump not sure at time
fuelab fpr
emanage blue</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I know im going aem wideband as with the setup im going to run its the only way to go .... but im torn between which gauge I should get was worderin if you guys had any input as to  which one you got and why<br />
<br />
setup:<br />
<br />
td04 16ts<br />
550cc inj<br />
fuel pump not sure at time<br />
fuelab fpr<br />
emanage blue</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>xsputnikx</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/aem-wide-band-gauge-should-i-get-479463/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>12v valve lock angle</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/12v-valve-lock-angle-479451/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 04:54:46 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Anybody know what it is?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Anybody know what it is?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>Force Fed Mopar</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/12v-valve-lock-angle-479451/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>No MAF intake pipe owners...</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/no-maf-intake-pipe-owners-479443/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 03:51:21 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>What type of filters do you have, and do you remember their part numbers?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>What type of filters do you have, and do you remember their part numbers?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>Curt93T/T</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/no-maf-intake-pipe-owners-479443/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>these are sorta neat!</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/these-sorta-neat-479437/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 03:00:35 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>these are kinda neat for a different take on our headlights FRP Cervus Headlight Housings Sealth 3000GT 94-98 2 3Dr:eBay Motors (item 350268719899 end time Nov-21-09 16:31:37 PST) (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FRP-Cervus-Headlight-Housings-Sealth-3000GT-94-98-2-3Dr_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem518da4831bQQitemZ350268719899QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories)</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>these are kinda neat for a different take on our headlights <img style='height:1px;width:1px;text-decoration:none;border:0;padding:0;margin:0;' src='http://rover.ebay.com/ar/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?mpt=505747874&adtype=1&size=1x1&type=3&campid=5336116702&toolid=10001'> <a rel="nofollow" href="http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=3&campid=5336116702&toolid=10001&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Febaymotors%2FFRP-Cervus-Headlight-Housings-Sealth-3000GT-94-98-2-3Dr_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem518da4831bQQitemZ350268719899QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories" target="_blank">FRP Cervus Headlight Housings Sealth 3000GT 94-98 2 3Dr:eBay Motors (item 350268719899 end time Nov-21-09 16:31:37 PST)</a></div>

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			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>mywetdream</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/these-sorta-neat-479437/</guid>
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			<title>Question about AWD parts distributor</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/question-about-awd-parts-distributor-479434/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 02:25:22 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Does the company listed in the wiki (How do I get parts for my AWD Transmission? - 3SI Wiki (http://www.3si.org/wiki/index.php/How_do_I_get_parts_for_my_AWD_Transmission%3F)) still have the parts for the same prices or is Ralliart the only people who make the service parts now?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Does the company listed in the wiki (<a href="http://www.3si.org/wiki/index.php/How_do_I_get_parts_for_my_AWD_Transmission%3F" target="_blank">How do I get parts for my AWD Transmission? - 3SI Wiki</a>) still have the parts for the same prices or is Ralliart the only people who make the service parts now?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>Cj_Staal</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/question-about-awd-parts-distributor-479434/</guid>
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			<title>free car fax here</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/free-car-fax-here-479427/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:17:16 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>i will be giving free carfaxs this week....all i need is your vin and email...good feed back will be appreciated...
OK the catch..im mixing it up to make this a little fun for me to.:muahaha:

If you own a 1st gen 3000gt or vr4..i will give you a free car fax....everyday iam going to change it up..(ex you send me one for a 2nd gen today..i wont send it out unless it says im doing 2nd gens)

Free carfax- for 1991-1993 3000gt or VR4 (NO STEALTH)</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>i will be giving free carfaxs this week....all i need is your vin and email...good feed back will be appreciated...<br />
OK the catch..im mixing it up to make this a little fun for me to.:muahaha:<br />
<br />
If you own a 1st gen 3000gt or vr4..i will give you a free car fax....everyday iam going to change it up..(ex you send me one for a 2nd gen today..i wont send it out unless it says im doing 2nd gens)<br />
<br />
Free carfax- for 1991-1993 3000gt or VR4 (NO STEALTH)</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>Lou3000gt</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/free-car-fax-here-479427/</guid>
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			<title>VIN Check Please</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/vin-check-please-479420/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 22:56:14 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>My girlfriend is looking at this 07 Murano and I was wondering if anybody can help me out on the carfax VIN# JN8AZ08W17W623562

                                                           Thanks Jamie</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>My girlfriend is looking at this 07 Murano and I was wondering if anybody can help me out on the carfax VIN# JN8AZ08W17W623562<br />
<br />
                                                           Thanks Jamie</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>riverside20</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/vin-check-please-479420/</guid>
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			<title>hesitation while cold?</title>
			<link>http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/hesitation-while-cold-479412/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 20:31:24 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>its a 94 sl. the problem isnt big. just kind of annoying. basically ill go out to drive it for the first time of the day. its been sitting all night and as cold as it can be. it starts right up and runs fine. without letting it warm up ill leave. but when i accelerate, theres a hesitation. kinda like it lost 50hp until i get to a higher rpm. it only does this while cold. and it doesnt last very long. it will hesitate between maybe 1500-2500rpm. its done this for a long time. its got a new air filter and a straight pipe exhaust. so that cant be clogging it up. i seafoamed it maybe 10k miles ago but i dont think that would effect it. the plug wires havent been changed since who knows when. its got fairly new plugs but theyre just some cheap $2 plugs. 

im thinking it just needs a minor tune up. (plugs, wires, maybe coils, ect.)

but just in case its something else... let me know.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>its a 94 sl. the problem isnt big. just kind of annoying. basically ill go out to drive it for the first time of the day. its been sitting all night and as cold as it can be. it starts right up and runs fine. without letting it warm up ill leave. but when i accelerate, theres a hesitation. kinda like it lost 50hp until i get to a higher rpm. it only does this while cold. and it doesnt last very long. it will hesitate between maybe 1500-2500rpm. its done this for a long time. its got a new air filter and a straight pipe exhaust. so that cant be clogging it up. i seafoamed it maybe 10k miles ago but i dont think that would effect it. the plug wires havent been changed since who knows when. its got fairly new plugs but theyre just some cheap $2 plugs. <br />
<br />
im thinking it just needs a minor tune up. (plugs, wires, maybe coils, ect.)<br />
<br />
but just in case its something else... let me know.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/">General</category>
			<dc:creator>superdave105</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/hesitation-while-cold-479412/</guid>
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