I notice that my ECS light does not coms on any more and my care is running pretrty rough when I hit small bumps in the road I felt it bunc. I took it to the shop and I was told I need to replace all my struts. He said the gas is gone.
My questions are
By the ECS light not showing is that a sign of the stryts not working anymore or the control module could be bad?
Should I replace them with the ECS type or should I go for the regular which is $100 cheeper?
Does it make a diggerence?
To save money I planned to do it myself. How much work is involved in this job?
Any recomendation where I should purchase these struts?
Get under the car and look at the struts. If It has a caked up oily residue on it, usually near the bottom, then the seal on it is bad and needs to be changed. If only one side of say, the rear is gone, then both rears need to be changed. Same with the front. The ECS comp may be bad but this is a place to start. Up to you if you want to delete the system. I use mine A LOT. If you think about it it's not that much cheaper unless you have to replace the computer. Another thing that may go out is the caps where they are plugged in on the tops. The fronts go out much more than the rears, wires brake. For a write up on how to change them and a pic of a leaky one go to stealth316.com. And buying them I know OEMMitsubishi.com, 3SX.com and Cherry Hill Triplex Mitsubishi has them. Changing them looks pretty straight forward with the right tools but I haven't done it yet. I got a quote of $485 at a shop I trust if I get lazy and rich all at once. That was just labor for the job. Hope this helps!
Might be the bulb in the dash as well. Can you feel a difference in the different locations of the switch? Check to see if the light cycles when turning the key to the on position, and not starting.(unsure if ecs lights up at that point though)
Usually when the ecs has an issue the light blinks, and does not go out. This also will put it in sport mode until fixed.
Changing the struts out is pretty easy if you have the correct tools, spring compressor is a must. May need a universal puller to get the rears off the lower mount. They rust on pretty good. You will need an alignment as well. Pay attention to the cam bolt setting on the fronts.
even if the module had an issue, the light would come on the dash, i think it would flash both tour and sport. same as if there were an issue with the system.
i vote bulb.
i also vote get a new suspension. maybe ecs with lowering springs or some aftermarket coils. but it's your money, not mine
I had mine flicker between tour and sport erratically for a few days and then nothing at all. Both were not lit. I found that I had a bad front cap. Hire was bad. Changed it out and it worked again.
Ditching the ECS is up to you. I love it. I use it. I will not get rid of it. I am going with TIEN S springs to drop it but still use the ECS.
Direct drop in replacement for the stock ECS computer. Allows you to manually select 1 of 3 modes "yes I said 3" for strut dampening. Also has a built in diagnostic check to check the system out and the functionality of the struts. Plus - Removes the linking to the ECU so it will never again interrupt or mess with the TPS signal to the ECU and cause the car to run like shit....
No I did not build this or am I selling these. I just happen to be running one of them!
Is there any way to cycle the ECS shock manually? Can you hook up a jump box to it or something?
That's pretty cool! My front struts are stuck in sport mode and I'm 99% sure my rear is stuck in tour mode
I built a controller some time ago that will allow you to manually position the dampening settings. I need to write something up on how to built it. Only cost about $10-15 dollars to build.
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