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Help Me Choose a Factory Door Speaker Replacement

  • Infinity Reference 6032cf (or 6032si)

    Votes: 13 65.0%
  • Polk Audio DB651 (or DB651s)

    Votes: 7 35.0%

Replacing Factory Door Speakers

25K views 50 replies 13 participants last post by  Dave57 
#1 · (Edited)
Help Choosing Replacement Door Speakers

Both of my door speakers have blown. I know there are better options out there but I've short-listed my replacements to these 2 options as I want to do the minimal amount of modifications to the door/basket:

- Infinity Reference 6032cf $56.48
- Polk Audio DB651 (and DB651s) $63.75

I think there is less work to install the Infiniti speakers whereas there are some slight modifications to fit in the Polk Audio (not sure about the slim mount version).
 
#2 ·
Based on the poll results (3-0 as of today), I ordered the Infinity Reference 6032cf today from Amazon for $45.75. They are backordered. But for that price, I can wait a few days.
 
#7 ·
I just ordered the Kappa 63.9i for both doors and the 693.9i 6x9s for the rear. Total price was about $200.00 from Amazon, they should be in next week. I've always been partial to Eclipse (in my high school days anyways) but seeing as they're no longer around (at least in the same form that they used to be) I decided to go with the Infinities.

Have any of you guys been able to find replacements for the dash 2.5" speakers? One of mine is blown and the other one isn't too far behind. I have found them listed on various mitsubishi OEM parts web sites but I am skeptical as to whether or not they actually have them in stock as I have read that these speakers are very hard to find and/or do not exist anymore. I guess I will find out soon enough as I placed an order for two of them on discountmitsubishiparts.com just to see what happens. In the mean time I simply disconnected the dash speakers so they don't make the whole system sound like hell.
 
#4 ·
#6 ·
Just got a set of the 6032cf off amazon and got one hooked up today.

Anyone getting these needs to know they do NOT come with ANY hardware except the foam padding and mounting bracket. You will need 8 more small screws and I am not sure why infinity would neglect this.. Ohh well bad review for them on the zon.

I am now wondering if 60w RMS is too much for the stock amp under the seat. Anyone else feel the need to upgrade after these?
 
#8 ·
http://www.3si.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=4169&ppuser=47909

Here’s a pic of the Infinity 63.7i 3-ways I installed in my 98 model. I don’t remember all the details but I don’t remember it requiring a lot of mods. I did have to space the stock grill out a little to provide clearance for the tweeter/mid stack. I them trimmed it with some black tubing readily available from Lowes (visible around the edge of the grill).
 
#9 ·
Door Speaker Installation Mod - 3000GT/Stealth International Photo Gallery

Here’s a pic of the Infinity 63.7i 3-ways I installed in my 98 model. I don’t remember all the details but I don’t remember it requiring a lot of mods. I did have to space the stock grill out a little to provide clearance for the tweeter/mid stack. I them trimmed it with some black tubing readily available from Lowes (visible around the edge of the grill).
Nice. Thanks for the pics. Do you have the factory HU still? If so, how do your new speakers sound with it? I have heard people say aftermarket speakers can be too 'soft' and aren't very loud when driven off the factory HU.

Also, I noticed that after I disconnected the dash tweeters, the door speakers do not put out hardly any treble at all. Is this b/c there is a built in crossover on the factory door speakers? Or is it crossed over at the HU? It also could be just that my door speakers are worn out.
 
#10 ·
Stock system, no issues with the door speakers, or dash, which I have also replaced with Infinity's. I'm pretty sure my rears could use replacement due to the shear age, but they still sound great and don't rattle. My 3000 only has a little over 21K miles and has been kept sheltered (98 SL model). I realize that has little to do with the surrounds rotting tho...
 
#11 ·
Got the 6032cf installed today. Wasnt too bad, had to snap off the inner portion of the plastic web because the tweet and edge of woofer were hitting it.

They are rediculously quiet compared to the stock rears and I am having a hard time getting them balanced. More than a hair to the rears and they overpower the fronts.

So whats a reasonable amp that will get this setup working ok with the fronts doing most of the work?
 
#17 ·
What does replacing the dash and door have to do with a sub? The sub in my car is in a smokin box they do not "float" I mentioned the dash and door installation because they did not cause a loss in aparent output of the infinity system. Like questioned here:
Got the 6032cf installed today.
They are rediculously quiet compared to the stock rears and I am having a hard time getting them balanced. More than a hair to the rears and they overpower the fronts.

So whats a reasonable amp that will get this setup working ok with the fronts doing most of the work?
But the 94-99 amp does have issues that say a newer diamante amp does not. http://www.3si.org/forum/f6/mitsubishi-oem-amp-test-results-361249/

I should have clarified what I was getting at. The cars were not meant to have the same frequencies played at the door speakers and the dash. So buying door speakers containing a tweeter and then adding another tweeter in the dash is not how they designed the cars. If doing this try not to present the radio's amp with less than a 2 ohm load. Say for instance 2 ohm speaker and 2 ohm dash = 1 ohm Why?? The 91-93's and non infinity 94-99 have the dash jumpered to the doors and the 94-99 infinity system has a totally seperate channel for the dash.

Then there's a difference in the 91-93 and the 94-99 infinity dash speakers. The 91-93's had a bass blocker on them and the 94-99 don't. The infinity factory speakers had a bigger voice coil too. Thus lowering their frequency operating capabilities.



So it certainly makes sense to buy some components that are known to have decent output with the stock system even if you have to take another hour to install them because doing it right the first time always wins in the end.
 
#12 ·

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#15 ·
#18 ·
my bad miised the part of the stock infinity amp as i use an aftermarket head unit and have also notice the lost in sound from the door speakers when the dash speakers where disconected and installing a resistor in place didnt help with the sound quality so replacing the dash speakers with the tweets definetly was the fix and still cheaper than butying good compomnents which usually requires a sub to get full sound quality
 
#19 ·
The choice and sometimes the quality of the components affects their bass production too. I was lucky back when I bought the car it already had old school (eaton) 661 Diamond audio components. ?You could feel the bass on your leg. With her car the cheap diamond audio components worked well. So I did that write up. In the infinity cars the rears are 2 way coaxials and unless theyre blown/have broken cones they're efficient an hell and have good bass capability.

But... Pretty sad when all you can get in an aftermarket radio is 20w.. Panasonic made a 32w one a few years ago which I thought was a great idea.
 
#20 ·
Something else too... It takes about 20 hours to break the speakers in according to DLS audio.
 
#22 ·
Not to jack the thread, but to expand on it. I have a 92 so no infinity or external amp. all but my dash speakers are pretty well shot. I have a digital factory stereo now as I will not go with an aftermarket head unit (Show Car). I have read that doing a component and putting the tweets in the dash is not the way to go as the dash speakers are actually a mid range. I am dynomating the doors, floor and everything in the back. So what should I do if I'm not going to run an aftermarket head and no amp. I'm not looking for an earth shaker but I am gonna run a mild sub in the rear to even out the sound. I have read to get a mid range to replace the dash speakers like a (Well I can't find the link now but someone makes them). I know my fronts are jumpered together so what will work and end up at the right Ohm and sound good????
 
#23 ·
Only the early non infinity cars had a bass blocker on the dash speakers essentially making them tweeters.... That's why the jbl 220's sounded good in those cars. They too had a bass blocker on them. But if you swapped a good set of infinity dash speakers for those 220's You could tell the loss in frequency response. Hell I gave my set of 220's away.

If someone could read it's (bass blocker) value the frequencies could be verified. But those older non infinity speakers do not have the frequency range capability either.

So the beauty of the components is you run the right and left to the crossover then hook up the speakers to the crossover and you're all set no worries about the load on the radio....

With a stock radio I'd be tempted to try these. They're only rated for 40W so they won't kill the radio's output. Also give them about 20 hours to "break in" before judging them. MB Quart FSB 216 (FSB216) 6-1/2" 2-Way Formula Component Speaker

My components have ratings similar to the infinity's
The FS of my 2.6 " tweeters is 850hz
 
#24 ·
Just as an update, I was able to get the rear Kappa 6x9s installed last night. I was a little disappointed in the results. The highs and mids are much better but if any thing the lows are worse than the factory Infinitys. The lows are muffled a bit as the speaker appears to be under powered.

I have swapped out factory speakers for aftermarket speakers in several cars previously (most recently was my '02 G6) and every time I have done this there has been a noticeable improvement in sound all around (bass, mids, and highs). I wasn't expecting anything better than what I had originally for bass but seeing as the lows are now muffled I may have to go the external amplifier route to get the sound I am looking for (not looking for anything ground shattering, just a decent sounding system with a little thump). I am also dead set on keeping the factory HU (I love factory look, manual equalizer, steering wheel controls and the 3.5 mm AUX input is awesome).

Tonight I am going to swap out the front door speakers with my new Kappa 3-ways and see how everything sounds, but at this point I am pretty sure I am going to have to go with a new amplifier.
 
#27 ·
So you didn't cut anything just put the cover on the back and the supplied bracket since giving you few more mm to clear the grill? Those are great news!.
You know i just finished testing the new Kappa door speaker too, about an hour ago and i was just testing the sound, didn't installed it but saw that it was going to hit the grill cos it stick up some, ( i also have the kappa 3 way) and i really didn't think of a way to get them in yet, some people make a mount of a plastic cap of paint container or maybe i'd have to use the supplied brakets but this way that you say it's much easier. Are you sure you don't hit the window? Thanks mate i'll do this too.

As for the sound my car had a Bose speaker there from previous owner and when i put the infinity it sounded way better, more clear and more highs but just cos the bose ones are crappy ( just one way speaker), i really wanted to leave the kappa's there but i still didn't know how i was going to proccede nor i had time to start cutting and trying.
These are just door speakers so they should not be heavy on bass but i can't compare them with stock either since i don't have them, but i really liked the sound, maybe get an amp .

Here it's a couple of pics from that area could you explain a little how you did it? did you used both white plastic covers or just the bigger one?





 
#29 ·
That's a good point about the window. I never did roll it down when I had the Kappa 6-1/2 installed, so that may be of concern.

But what I did was take the white plastic housing piece shown in your middle picture (I believe it is just one big plastic piece, not two separate ones as you had implied), unscrewed it from the door and then turned it sideways and slid it inside the door. Before sliding it into the door, however, I first pinched on 4 black metal fasteners onto the corners of the white plastic housing where the screw holes were (this will give the screws something to drill in to). Then I took the long black screws from the Kappa 6x9s that I had and screwed them into the 4 plastic fasteners (the 4 white things that you can see in the last picture of yours). Before screwing them in all the way I lined up the 4 holes in the corners of the plastic housing and then proceeded to screw the screws in all the way.
 
#40 ·
Hey yesterday i was working on this again.

So you kept the four white plastic bases that are on the door ( where the white bracket screw on ) ? if you did this the white bracket is now even deeper on cos the four white plastic bases have a longer butt on the back of them, then making them for sure unable to fit cos the window will hit it on it's way down, believe me i tried this yesterday.

With the window up there is tons of room, with it down nada...
The only way to do it like you said would be taking the four white bases ( where the screws goes ) out and making you own flatter bases cos like i said the back butt on them stick in too much.
Now still there is a close call that i am not sure that will fit like that, yesterday i was playing with this white cover on the inside of the door and rolling the window up and down and the space is really tight.

I also did what in 316 Stealth says ( it's for an older Kappa model ) to cut a base out of a lid from a 5-gallon bucket but still touched the grill of the door cover, our Kappa's is a newer model that stick up even more.

So i am thinking on making some metal brackets to try to fit them as close to the door as i can.
Darn Speakers if it wan't cos they sound so good compared to the old ones...
 
#30 ·
Just received some 2 way infinity 6023cf (reference) 6.5" and my front doors are both blown so the only place to go is up! and my 6x9 still work well and I have an aftermarket double din jvc-axbt60 with an alpine mrp-500 mono pushing a 4 ohm DVC apline type R 12" so im curious if i shoud look into an amp, im not concerned about low end on my speakers I just dont want to have to blare the deck to suffice on my speakers. and curious if I should get the 6x9 speakers just to balance it out. and people say that they put bass blockers in the slots for those slots, but I feel buying an all in one speaker in my door is my easiest/laziest way to solve the problem.
 
#31 ·
The diamond 662 speaker holes in the 99 just enough room to secure them



The 662 tweeter



The diamond 661's that came with the car when I bought it 10 years ago pic taken after door deadening was installed.



The 7" doors next to the 6.5"



The 7" mounted


Grill material removal on a 98 black door panel in the car



and the Smokin corner box with an JL W3

 
#32 ·
Looks nice Dave. Was the door deadening something you did, or was that done at like an audio shop?

I may look into doing this at some point in the future b/c one thing I've noticed with my doors is they seem to rattle and make little noises here and there when the bass hits on the speakers.
 
#33 ·
http://www.3si.org/forum/5607939-post27.html

It was done by me in a warm late November / December up north in RI in an attached garage back in 2006. The car had no carpet or panels and was warmed with heat gun for a few minutes.
 
#35 ·
It was a while ago.. You take off what you can by hand and then use goo be gone. I also may have carefully used lacquer thinner. I also used a 90% (drug store bought) isopropyl alcohol to clean everywhere I could before installing the deadening.
 
#38 ·
I hope people answer up that this will work that know more than me. My homework has led me to this as a good option too. If we can get some thumbs up I'm gonna go with these too.
 
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