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Old 06-03-2008, 08:39 AM   #5 (permalink)
JeffWVR4
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Belleville, MI
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Default Re: should i replace the intermediate shaft?

The driver's side axle is separate from the intermediate shaft. I've worked on a lot of 3S's, and although possible, I haven't found one yet that had a bad intermediate shaft.

The intermediate shaft consists of 3 parts, the shaft, the bracket, and bearings. Unless the splines are messed up, the only other part that may go bad would be the bearings. You can get a bearing pack for around $60 with the 3Si discount, and you'll need a machine shop to press the bearings. Or you can get a bracket assy with bearings for up to $230 depending on your model, and you'll still need a press to get it onto the shaft. Then there's the shaft itself that can run as high as $390 depending on your model.

I haven't been able to find a listing for a complete new intermediate shaft assembly, but I would bet it's pricey. So unless there's a problem with the splines or the bearings, you can probably use your old shaft without any problems. Or if in doubt, find a good used one from somewhere.
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Jeff W.

Red '92 VR4 215,000 mile daily driver that run's 11's! Once I convinced the wife I needed 600hp to drive to work every day, 1/4 mile at a time, the rest was easy

Big 16G Turbos w/IPS headers and pre-cat eliminators, DR Stage 3 heads, 92mm Wiseco pistons, PTE 680cc injectors, ARC2 fuel controller, HKS Twin-Power Ignition, HKS EVC IV BC, HKS SSBOV, Alamo I/C's and HardPipe kit, ATR DP, Borla exhaust, NeedsWings Electronic Exhaust Cutout, MSD 8.5mm plug wires, Denso Stage1 fuel pump, DR Fuel Pump Hotwire Kit, South Bend FE/SS Stage 5 clutch, Boost Cooler water/meth injection, DynoTech Metal-Matrix aluminum driveshaft, no cats, Eibach lowering springs, PowerStop/Stillin rotors, Goodrich SS brake lines, PSI Tire Pressure Monitor System, AEM Wide-Band O2, Fittipaldi wheels, 2-tone all-leather Interior.
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