Re: ProwlerGT's 3000GT Revival Thread - Start Up
Took the car for another cruise tonight.
Brakes - As soon as I got back I used the IR laser thermometer to temp read the brake rotors. I'm not so much concerned about the temps themselves as I am the difference in temperature. The Front pass rotor is running about 20 degrees hotter than the front driver side one and conversely the rear driver is running about 20 degrees hotter than the rear pass. I can still hear the pad scraping outside the car too. Was hoping I could avoid dealing with the brakes again or that it would self correct over time, but I can swear at times the car is pulling hard one way or the other and I think its more than the usual car self-steer when hitting substandard pavement or uneven rock/dirt roads.
Electrical ignition switch - Its finished and no more "no starts" when turning the key. Also gonna get a new key made off of my spare cause it works better than the primary key.
As if the car has its own demon I do believe the alternator I put in when I started all this stuff almost 3 years ago is going bad. I haven't tested it yet, but the voltage meter drops quite a bit every time the blinkers blink which I think is a sign the alt is going bad or is bad. If this is the case it could have a lot to do with the lack of power "I think" I'm still feeling but at this point am completely unsure of cause its just been so long and too much stuff.
Oil Pressure gauge - Does anyone know how to interpret the stock oil pressure gauge. IE: Do you know what numbers the hash marks represent? What are you running for oil pressure at idle in an NA DOHC?
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