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Bret Brinkmann · 05-10-2008, 10:01 AM

Wow, I go and take a few finals and people get all homicidal on each other.... The guys just trying to figure out what is wrong with his car and he is getting frusterated, calm down guys.

With this new info, it sounds to me as though the pressure plate is bad. I had the same thing on my car a while back. Improper tranny installation is usually the reason (just like with the clutch disk only the input shaft hits the fingers of the diaphram spring and slightly bends them) but a faulty pressure plate from the manufacturer is still possible. This usually shows up as an intermittnet problem. Some times the car will go into first just fine, other times you have to sit there and wait for it to finally pop into gear. Sound familiar driver17? You may still have other problems, but I bet your pressure plate is damaged. The only way to fix the problem is to replace it unfortantly.

Other things I read here that people should know is that one cluck of the drive shaft DOES NOT mean the clutch is draging. ONLY UPON THE SECOND CLUNK WITH THE CLUTCH PEDAL HELD DOWN CAN YOU DETERMINE THAT THE CLUTCH IS DRAGGING. A "dragging" clutch is what we call a clutch that does not fully disengauge. A clutch pedal adjustment is what I recommend after the cable adjustment.

Adjusting the cables so that they fit over the attatchment on the tranny with out moving will not result in good shift feel. It is a good starting point though. Another good sign that the cables need to be adjusted is if you have to force the lever to the left farther than the stops want you to go to get into 1st. Or to the right for reverse. Adjust for feel in the car, not ease of fittment on the tranny. Check those bushings at the tranny end of the cables for play also. If you find any, replace them with solid bushings or rollor blade bearings.

These AWD trannys are sensitive to fluid choice. The synchros like thin fluids but the hard parts need a high level of protection. The only ring that has the fiberous friction material like a clutch in an auto is the reverse ring on 5 speeds. The others are sintered bronze on steel rings. I DO NOT recommend any one trying ATF in them. Bad idea. It will not protect the gears. A lot of newer cars (like the Vettes) use a fluid that is colored like ATF but it is NOT ATF. I can't tell you guys how many Chevys I worked on when I was at the dealership (fully certified by the way) that had improper fluid in them because some one thought that their car used ATF. It is not the same fluid.

05-10-2008, 10:01 AM	#69 (permalink)
Bret Brinkmann Gear Head Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Charlotte NC Drives: Rear wheels only... Trader Rating: (4)	Re: Kormex Tranny Issues !!! Wow, I go and take a few finals and people get all homicidal on each other.... The guys just trying to figure out what is wrong with his car and he is getting frusterated, calm down guys. With this new info, it sounds to me as though the pressure plate is bad. I had the same thing on my car a while back. Improper tranny installation is usually the reason (just like with the clutch disk only the input shaft hits the fingers of the diaphram spring and slightly bends them) but a faulty pressure plate from the manufacturer is still possible. This usually shows up as an intermittnet problem. Some times the car will go into first just fine, other times you have to sit there and wait for it to finally pop into gear. Sound familiar driver17? You may still have other problems, but I bet your pressure plate is damaged. The only way to fix the problem is to replace it unfortantly. Other things I read here that people should know is that one cluck of the drive shaft DOES NOT mean the clutch is draging. ONLY UPON THE SECOND CLUNK WITH THE CLUTCH PEDAL HELD DOWN CAN YOU DETERMINE THAT THE CLUTCH IS DRAGGING. A "dragging" clutch is what we call a clutch that does not fully disengauge. A clutch pedal adjustment is what I recommend after the cable adjustment. Adjusting the cables so that they fit over the attatchment on the tranny with out moving will not result in good shift feel. It is a good starting point though. Another good sign that the cables need to be adjusted is if you have to force the lever to the left farther than the stops want you to go to get into 1st. Or to the right for reverse. Adjust for feel in the car, not ease of fittment on the tranny. Check those bushings at the tranny end of the cables for play also. If you find any, replace them with solid bushings or rollor blade bearings. These AWD trannys are sensitive to fluid choice. The synchros like thin fluids but the hard parts need a high level of protection. The only ring that has the fiberous friction material like a clutch in an auto is the reverse ring on 5 speeds. The others are sintered bronze on steel rings. I DO NOT recommend any one trying ATF in them. Bad idea. It will not protect the gears. A lot of newer cars (like the Vettes) use a fluid that is colored like ATF but it is NOT ATF. I can't tell you guys how many Chevys I worked on when I was at the dealership (fully certified by the way) that had improper fluid in them because some one thought that their car used ATF. It is not the same fluid. __________________ When asked what the best thing to come out of Italy is, most Italians will tell you Ferrari.... But if you ask me it was Super Mario Brothers. 250 RWHP If you want the exploded views of both 5 and 6 speeds or pics e-mail me at SavagTiger@AOL.com. 94 VR-4 Panama Green Tan Interior RPS II, gutted cats, flipped BPV, 3SX control arms, 3SX shift bushings, Red Line, Auto-Meter. Rebuilt TC, transaxle, steering rack, heads, and turbos. 360cc's blue printened with in 1%. New short block. RWD convertion and welded rear end.