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JeffWVR4 · 05-09-2008, 07:11 AM

1) Grab the big end of each rod with your hand and try to shake it and to see if there's movement. Most times with a spun bearing, you will be able to shake the rod enough that you will hear the knocking noise as the rod beats against the crankshaft. If you don't find a loose one, pull the cap off of each rod and check to see that both bearing halves are still there and in good condition. You will probably find that on one of the rods, one of the bearing halves is sandwiched between the other bearing half and the crankshaft.
2) In most cases, if a rod bearing has spun, the crankshaft gets scored and damaged, and in many cases, the rod, too. To fix this, the crankshaft has to be removed and turned, and the rod replaced. Thise means you'll need to replace all the rod bearings. To replace a rod, the head has to be removed.
3) So while you're there, you might as well pull both heads, pull all the pistons, re-ring them, and replace all the bearings, mains too. And the oil pump as well.

05-09-2008, 07:11 AM	#2 (permalink)
JeffWVR4 Certified Car Nut Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Belleville, MI Drives: Like a Grandpa Trader Rating: (1)	Re: Rod Bearing? 1) Grab the big end of each rod with your hand and try to shake it and to see if there's movement. Most times with a spun bearing, you will be able to shake the rod enough that you will hear the knocking noise as the rod beats against the crankshaft. If you don't find a loose one, pull the cap off of each rod and check to see that both bearing halves are still there and in good condition. You will probably find that on one of the rods, one of the bearing halves is sandwiched between the other bearing half and the crankshaft. 2) In most cases, if a rod bearing has spun, the crankshaft gets scored and damaged, and in many cases, the rod, too. To fix this, the crankshaft has to be removed and turned, and the rod replaced. Thise means you'll need to replace all the rod bearings. To replace a rod, the head has to be removed. 3) So while you're there, you might as well pull both heads, pull all the pistons, re-ring them, and replace all the bearings, mains too. And the oil pump as well. __________________ Jeff W. Red '92 VR4 213,000 mile daily driver that run's 11's! Once I convinced the wife I needed 600hp to drive to work every day, 1/4 mile at a time, the rest was easy Big 16G Turbos w/adapter plates, DR Stage 3 heads, 92mm Wiseco pistons, PTE 680cc injectors, Pre-cat eliminators w/dump tubes, ARC2 fuel controller, HKS Twin-Power Ignition, HKS EVC IV BC, HKS SSBOV, Alamo I/C's and HardPipe kit, ATR DP, Borla exhaust, NeedsWings Electronic Exhaust Cutout, MSD 8.5mm plug wires, Denso Stage1 fuel pump, DR Fuel Pump Hotwire Kit, South Bend FE/SS clutch, Boost Cooler water/meth injection, DynoTech Metal-Matrix aluminum driveshaft, no cats, Eibach lowering springs, PwerStop/Stillin rotors, Goodrich SS brake lines, PSI Tire Pressure Monitor System, AEM Wide-Band O2, Fittipaldi wheels, 2-tone all-leather Interior.