Quote:
Originally Posted by tokki g
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Try not to use the procedure in the first post above as you could entrain air bubbles in the brake system.
Here's a simple and fairly cheap way to do it on your own:
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemax_1
To me, the simplest and cheapest way to flush my brakes properly was simply to replace all the bleeders with speedbleeders. No need to backflush etc.
If you're not familiar with speedbleeders, they're simply bleeder valves that have a ball-spring valve built into them. Makes it very easy to bleed the brakes solo and even easier if there's 2 people. All you have to do is put a piece of clear tubing over the valve (with the other end in a container), loosen the speedbleeder about 1/4 to 1/2 turn, then pump the brake pedal until the new fluid comes out.
I usually give a few extra pumps to make sure all the old fluid is out of that line. Then tighten the speedbleeder and move on to the next caliper. No need to tighten the bleeder between every pump. That's what the built in valve is for. Only other thing to make sure is that you top up the fluid in the reservoir after several pumps, because it will go down. I've found that if I fill the reservoir to the top line (which is about 1/2" - 1" from the top of the reservoir), it'll take about 8 - 10 full pedal pumps before the level of fluid reaches the filter/strainer, where I usually top up the fluid.
Proper order to bleed the fluid is:
passenger rear, driver front, driver rear, passenger front.
Contrary to what some folks think about why the procedure is like this, the simple answer is that the brake system is built on two lines that cross diagonally. The driver front and passenger rear are on one line and the passenger front and driver rear are on the other. It's always good practice to bleed the caliper furthest away from the brake cylinder first, and to finish bleeding both calipers on one line before doing the other line.
Here's a link to speedbleeders:
Supercar Engineering
You can also find generic brand speedbleeders at your local Autozone, Pep Boys etc. They'll be in red packaging with the name HELP! (for some reason). The size of the SB's required vary between the gens. You either need the ones that are M10x1 thread or M7x1 for rears(1st gen). All fronts are M10x1 approx. 34.5mm length (varies between brand). Don't get the short ones which are about 31mm unless you have Stoptech brakes.
Max |
You shouldn't just allow the fluid to 'dribble' out because that could allow air bubbles in.
If you don't have or don't want to get Speedbleeders, then ask someone to give you a hand. Simply follow the procedure above except without the SB's, you have your assistant stand on the brake pedal and then you open the bleeder valve to allow fluid to spurt out (use some tubing over the bleeder nipple to some kind of container. Brake fluid is corrosive and toxic even from skin contact). With them still standing on the brakes, close the bleeder valve. Then tell them to allow the pedal to rise again and stand on the pedal again then repeat.
The advantage to bleeding brakes under pressure like this is that a) it prevents air from getting into the brake system. b) the higher velocity of the brake fluid going through the lines is more effective for removing small air bubbles. It's also a good idea to use a rubber mallet to tap the calipers every once in a while as you bleed the brakes to get any bubbles to move.
Max