Quote:
Originally Posted by ProwlerGT
Drivability test 2 - Today I went out again by myself and paid closer attention. Windows down I can hear the brakes scrapping the rotors the entire time while going 10 - 35mph. Comparing the braking to a 2001 maxima which has the same engine size, a dodge charger 2006, and my 95 Windstar the braking is just better on all 3. I did several panic stops today from 30 or 35mph and measured the temps of the rotors with an infrared thermometer with a laser pointer.
35 mph run and quick stops:
Front Rotors: Low 300's F variance of about 15 degrees between the two.
Rear Rotors: Low 200's F variance of about 10-15 degrees between the two.
Highway drive to 70mph:
Front Rotors: High 300's F near 400F; variance of about 20 degrees between the two.
Rear Rotors: High 200's F near 300F; variance of about 10-15 degrees between the two.
Now what I don't know is if ANYONE is gonna know if those temps are within some kind of decent normal range. I was happy to see that they all seemed relatively close in temp to each other, but thats all I can say. Dunno if thats too hot or what.
hyperblue - Yeah I've made that mistake before too, but usually 99% of the time the lugs push the rotor all the way back once the wheels are back on. You can see at the front of the hub if its lined up right before you put the wheels on. I would think too if the rotors aren't flush that it would wobble the wheels big time. Though I have never known about "nubs and divots" on the back of rotors. Maybe I should take a gander.
nihil - I'll reverify the brake booster hose positioning, but I don't believe you can install the hose the wrong way without bending it up.
I have a lil bleeder container with a transparent hose attached so I watch that line as its bled for air bubbles. Its solid fluid coming out, but I'll rebleed anyway and see what happens.
I still also after all this time feel some kind of strange "popping" when I press the pedal all the way down. Before I replaced a single thing on the brake system I sought to eliminate this popping sound/feeling and after replacing everything, but of course the prop metering valve. I can't think of what else would be causing the scraping and this popping as I have bled the lines repeatedly.
So without further adue I've ordered a new proportioning valve which as I was saying somewhere before is actually listed as a metering valve as well and if a metering valve is bad it will cause loss of braking power. When I replace this damn thing if my issues aren't resolved then there's a demon in the car who's chosen to only live in the brakes.
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Welp...if the valve doesn't fix it.....then the idle demon moved to your brakes.....
When I bleed brakes, I have a hose, like fish aquarium hose, looped a 360* and held that way with a ziptie, I push it onto the bleeder and loosen it just enough so when you push on the pedal, fluid flows out. With the hose on there it won't let air back in, so you can sit in the car and keep pumping and not worry about air going back in. Keep doin that until you have somewhat clear, clean fluid. Also, you can reverse bleed by removing the reservoir cap and pushing the piston into the caliper, but make sure you keep an eye on the reservoir because you'll be forcing the fluid up there so it will overflow.
Maybe try both methods and get your fluid completely flushed to clean fluid...it'll take a lot of fluid though.
What's this popping? Maybe it's something with the mechanical parts in the pedal itself and not actually the braking part?