Quote:
Originally Posted by Struggly
Tough for a prop valve to go bad. There isn't much to it. If it stopped working you'd either have consistent rear wheel lockup or no rear brakes at all.
What are your symptoms? Why have you been replacing brake system parts?
Clint
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Before reading the rest keep this in mind: I didn't know about brakes a long time ago and the car probably went almost 100k without a brake fluid line flush and also the brakes were used on at least 2-3 occasions while submerged in flood waters.
Symptoms:
- Extreme (half as much as normal) insufficient braking power.
- Pads scrap rotors despite free turning wheels when jacked up.
- Car pulls hard left (but this changes at times to soft left or even right)
ALL brake system components replaced except the prop valve and brake pedal itself. Slider bolts freshly greased to proper grease amount per caliper. MC rebuilt. Replaced booster. All 4 calipers BRAND NEW. Lines bled in correct order with car on several times. New SS lines. No leaks. NO ABS.
I used to have consistent slanted wear on my rears with every pad used. As of late though I think I've identified it as a factory defect. If you use a small ruler and measure the length of the slider bolt boots the length of the top most boot is 1 hash mark on the ruler longer than the length of the boot on the bottom. If the sliders are uneven (which it appears to be due to the thickness of the rubber boot at top slider bolt) this to me would cause the rears to over time slant with the thinnest part of the pad being at the bottom of the caliper and thickest part of the pad at top. The 1 piston design in my NA is also to blame as I believe this problem would be solved with 2 pistons for the rear.