Re: Compression Testing Correctly and Cold vs Warm engine
Well, in my case my engine has been sitting for several months with no crank. I don't know if that affects the test or not, but what I do think affects the test is debris inside the spark plug bore where the compression tester fitting/gasket meets with the metal to make a good seal to receive the pressure.
I did each test on a COLD engine and tightened as much as I could and cleaned as best I could first. Here are the results:
Cyl 1: 213 & 169 Cyl 2: 183
Cyl 3: 135 Cyl 4: 139
Cyl 5: 135 Cyl 6: 147
Cylinder 1 had some oil on the plug threads and in the bore before I loosened it. The 2nd test I did on it was done after retightening the fitting for the compression tester. I didn't realize it till later, but that was the bore with the most debris in it hence me needing to tighten it more.
I have reassembled the beast, but I am not starting it up because if things don't run right I'm gonna be HELLA pissed after I spent the entire AM hours till dawn putting her back together. I will do a HOT test on the front bank when I awake later today and if the car is running good I will not do the rear bank. Its just too much to do especially if things are running good.
In any case if I were to go by the cold numbers it looks like I'd have some problems, but this is a good test to show you probably cannot as others have said.
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