[BlackStealth]

Tuning Method #3 Speed Density using GM IAT, fixed baro signal.

The principles described in Tuning Method #2 is exactly the same except the factory MAF is removed completely. With a fixed baro signal you won't have elevation changes affecting your tune as the greddy pressure sensor already compensates for this. The GM IAT is not a 100% match to the mitsubishi IAT so don't be alarmed if your intake temperature numbers are off.

Tuning Method #4 stock MAF + I/J injector sizing correction

Hardware requirements: stage 3 wiring and greddy check engine light adaptor.

This has got to be one of the most interesting tuning features EMU has to offer. Instead of manipulating the airflow signal to the ECU, we manipulate the injectors directly completely bypassing the ECU. What benefits are to this? Stock drivability with stock ignition timing, no hot start issues (if you still have your high fuel pressure solenoid still connected), and the low/high fuel voltage relay will operate at appropriate times. And now the bad, you must keep your input injector duty cycle below 100% at all times. Let's identify the two injector duty cycles that now exist.

Input injector duty cycle - this is the duty cycle out from your ECU and into the input of the EMU.
Output injector duty cycle - this is the duty cycle out from the EMU and drives your fuel injectors.

The EMU allows you to enter injector lag time for more precision. When I tested this feature out it didn't work properly, and there's no harm in just leaving the before and after lag time to zero. I suspect this feature may work if your new injectors are laggier than the stock ones (ie. PTE) but someone else can experiment with this.

This feature alone isn't that useful, as you your limited to the same HP as stock 360cc injectors. Don't think for a minute that just because you've installed larger than stock injectors that you can run higher PSI than before. If this feature excites you then look at the Tuning Method #5 on how to proceed further.

UPDATE....Personal experiences:
Using v2.13 software and the global injector sizing (AKA I/J before and I/J after) alone made my car run idle very lean using (360cc before and 550cc after). I had to richen up the low load end of the map by 20%. I don't know why this was necessary.

Tuning Method #5 I/J injector sizing correction + Boost Cut Limiter + I/J Map

Hardware requirements: stage 3 wiring and greddy check engine light adaptor.

Gray Haze has come up with an interesting tuning method in which I'll describe here. This method improves on Tuning Method #4 and works around the 100% input injector duty cycle problem. This probably is the best tuning technique as you retain stock drivability with no short comings, and no need to monkey with the timing.

To combat the 100% input injector duty cycle, you need to determine at which PSI level this occurs. Once this has been determined, set the boost cut limiter feature before 100% occurs, in essence, you want the airflow signal to the ECU capped at a maximum so the ECU will never reach 100% input injector duty cycle.

Now that the 100% input injector duty cycle problem has been solved, you need to add fuel by using the I/J fuel map. You have a choice of whether to increase fuel based on injector duty cycle or injector duration. The latter is a better choice. Be sure to setup the I/J fuel map based on Boost (PSI).

Update 1: I gave this tuning method a try and was a little frustrated by the fact my v2.13 EMU had trouble subtracting injector duty cycle based on percentages which caused my car to run extremely rich at WOT. In my general tips section I remembered that EMU was known to struggle with injector duty cycle and subtracting injector duration time would be more reliable. I was gonna try the injector duration time method but then realized the amount of work involved. Each cell would have different entry and I don't have any solid datalogs to assist me. I've gone back to my stage 2.5 wiring on my boomslang harness as I'm too lazy to experiment with this tuning method any further.

Update 2: I decided to try this one last time. Speed density at stage 3 works fantastic. Now being addicted to how well stage 3 works with speed density I learned a few things. Boost cut limited feature sometimes overshoots and will cause problems if you're trying to keep input injector duty cycle below 100%. The better way is to hard code the max HZ level into your speed density map, such as 1850 HZ. This guarantees no more overshoots. Next I noticed I was getting an intermittent 20ms dropout or glitch of some kind. My input injector reading would momentarily drop to a very low level which becomes a problem at high rpms (feels similar to a fuel cut). I checked and rechecked my wire harness, moved my emanage to a different location, but couldn't get rid of this glitch. I went as far as buying a second emanage ultimate (rev. E) to see if that would make any difference. Sadly, it didn't. After two weeks I decided I'd much rather give up the excellent part throttle drivability & glitchy WOT (stage 3) for okay part throttle drivability and excellent WOT operation (stage 2.5). Don't let my glitch problem deter you from using stage 3, as Gray Haze has setup four vehicles without problems, I just haven't been able to identify why I'm having a problem on my car. When I look back at Update 1, I'm not sure why I was running rich at WOT, but this time around I was using speed density instead of MAF.