Ultimate Emanage tuning guide (not to be confused with the blue emanage). Purpose: Instructions on how to tune, and provide an organized location for sharing EMU maps. *** A WORK IN PROGESS ***
For Ultimate Emanage installation questions, etc refer to:
-= Ultimate Emanage Thread =-
Most people rush into installing bigger injectors and EMU but then don't know how to tune it. Like how much timing should I have at xxxx RPMS and xx Boost, or what AFR should I be at this given RPM and Boost. Don't make this mistake. If you still have your stock injectors and stock MAF then it's not too late to go back temporarily and do it right.
There are many tuning methods available on the EMU, but I'm only gonna cover a few of them.
Tuning Method #1 on non-gutted stock MAF.
Hardware requirement:
EMU unit
EMU main harness
Greddy pressure sensor and harness
compatible Wideband o2 controller
Greddy harness for reading wideband o2 results (0-5V)
With stock 360cc injectors and stock MAF installed, we need to record some EMU datalog runs. What were interested in capturing is Boost (PSI), RPMs, Wideband AFRs, and actual timing numbers. Make a few runs in 1st, 2nd, 3rd gear. Preferrably you want to capture a datalog run without any knock -- and if this is a problem turn down your boost and try again. Also it is worth mentioning you should get a datalog run with injector duty cycle below 100%.
Make note of your current fuel related mods, such as:
Stock fuel pump (yes/no):
Fuel pump wire rewired(hotwired) (yes/no):
Stock Fuel relay low/high voltage bypassed (yes/no):
Stock Fuel Pressure Regulator (yes/no):
If you have an OBD datalogger take note of the low, mid, high fuel trims as they might be useful sometime for future reference.
The more datalog runs you save the better. Even normal cruising ones are good too.
Now you're ready to replace the stock injectors with larger injectors. Go ahead and make the hardware changes.
Setting up the airflow correction map. Switch from TPS tuning to Boost PSI tuning and set up your custom PSI load scale, such as -12.5 PSI, -10 PSI, -7.5 PSI, -5 PSI, etc.
Do not be tempted to use the I/J size before and after, as this confuses people when they run into the 100% input injector duty cycle problem. Yes this makes life easier, but it's also a double edge sword and most people don't understand the consequences so it's better to ignore that feature for now.
Use the formula:
(stock injector size) / (new injector size) - 1
For example (360/550) - 1 will give you -34% correction.
One would think that inputing -34% in all the cells in the airflow correction map should be good enough but it is not. Our stock MAF is not linear, so this is one reason why we need to put more work into the airflow correction map.
With -34% populated in every cell and if you did manage to get your car to idle you'll notice it is running very lean. Change the low load cells to -20% and see how that works. Depending on which fuel related mods that have been installed on your car, this -20% will vary greatly. Use the interpolate feature so there's a gradual step from one cell to the next. Now it's time to test your settings, for safety reasons turn down the boost as low as it can go and get all of your tuning done in 1st gear first. If the car starts bucking during WOT then most likely you're too lean at that given RPM and PSI point. Refer back to your original stock 360cc datalog runs to see what AFR you should be running.
Here's a sample AFR from stealth316.com to assist you, but there's no PSI load scale to help you out.
Now that you have your car running smoothly proceed to 2nd and 3rd gear test runs and verify your tuning is still valid.
Once you're satisified, I suggest incrementing the boost and repeat.
Eventually you'll run into some knock. First verify the AFR is correct, if its too lean, add some fuel and try again. If the knock does not go away, add some fuel just before the problem cell. If the knock persisits, you may be running too much timing, recall larger injectors increases timing advance. You can refer back to your old stock 360cc injector map to see how much more additional timing your running than normal. At this point you need to create a timing map and set up the scales similar if not the same as your airflow adjustment map. With the timing map created, you can subtract timing at the problem cell, and/or subtract timing just before problem cell. Try subtracting a small amount of timing and repeat until knock goes away.
Do some part throttle runs and verify everything is good. See, tuning isn't that hard when you have something to refer to.
This fuel map that you created can be readily shared with others. Someone with a different exhaust, turbochargers, intercooler configurations should still be okay as the factory MAF can measure increase or decrease airflow changes, only speed density users need to worry. All fuel related mods (fuel pump upgrade, fuel pump relay bypass, hotwired, aftermarket FPR), and different brand name injectors (lag time) play a larger role between map variations from car to car. 91, or 94 octane level has some WOT variations too.
A special note to owners running stage 3 wiring (ie boomslang owners):
The EMU can be made completely invisibile with 0% correction in the maps, thus recording stock 360cc datalogs very easy for wiring stages 1 through 2.5. However at stage 3 wiring, I noted that at idle I was running very rich and required attention so it may not be possible for you to record a true stock 360cc datalog. Instead I'd suggest downloading some from this thread when they come available for comparison purposes.
Tuning Method #2 Speed density on gutted stock MAF.
Before you reach this step, be sure to complete tuning method #1 first as this will allow you to create a perfect airflow output table for
your car. Sharing speed density maps are fine, but note they fluctuate more from one car to another because any modifications that influences V.E. directly influences the HZ numbers in the map. Modifications such as exhaust, downpipe, gutted cats, air filters, intercoolers and many more directly influences speed denisty. This also means every time you a make a minor modification you need to recheck your tune as it may need changing.
Why go speed density? Turbochargers spoolup much faster (makes a 15G car feel like a 9b car spoolup, well at least thats what it feels like to me). The stock MAF is limited to xxxx HZ or xxxx airflow and the greddy pressure sensor can go alot further. Speed density continues to work if intercooler pipes blow apart, and doesn't mind open blow off valves.
Now the hard part, creating an airflow output map for your car. With v2.00 of the emanage software, you can use the data sampling map to assist you. Every cell needs a number, so you need to drive your car under many different RPMS and load conditions. Turning down your boost at different increments will help you find the HZ numbers for each cell. Some cells will be impossible to do as you may never get there ie (20psi at 1000 rpms) and I wouldn't worry too much about those.
Just estimate the HZ number from the neighbouring cells. Take a look at the example airflow output number to get a better understanding of what belongs there.
To run speed density, toggle the airflow adjustment map to airflow output map. If you did your job right, you should notice no change. The airflow output map should now be emulating your factory MAF HZ signals along with your tune integrated. For example, you don't have to make corrections for larger injectors because you already did this in tuning method #1. Confirm everything is working as it should.
Now proceed to gutting your factory MAF. Removing the three honeycomb screens is pretty easy to do, and is reversible should you ever change your mind. Run your car again and make a test drive. You should notice the turbos spool up faster. By removing the honeycomb screens you've made a mod effecting the V.E. so you now have to go back and retune again.
When you want a richer condition you need to increase the HZ, and to make a condition leaner you decrease the HZ.
Note: If you're having trouble getting a steady idle with large injectors because the HZ value doesn't offer enough resolution, you can add more fuel outside of the ECU's control by using the I/J Adj. Map1 and add fuel directly.
Ackowledge a small problem: the barometer inside the stock MAF and the greddy pressure sensor are both compensating for elevation changes. Trevor has reported this is neglicable.
Some people (Trevor, Pyun) have gone one step further and to hack the factory MAF and eliminate it from the air intake. Here's some pictures:
If you're gonna share your maps, be sure to include every mod you can think of.