3000GT/Stealth International Message Center - View Single Post - ECS/Tour-Sport mode.

JRC · 01-05-2007, 09:01 PM

Relentless:
Yes, there are servos in the struts. What they do is move into position orifices of two different sizes. A larger bore orifice for tour mode and a smaller orifice for sport mode. These orifices are where the hydraulic fluid passes through to absorb the shock. Naturally more fluid through would create a softer ride and less fluid passing would be a harsher ride. Joel pointed out the capacitors that he replaced. I am not saying this can't be the problem, just more often than not it is not the problem. He also pointed out what my website said about the fact that sometimes the continuity reading can be intermittent, so continuity has to be taken while moving the wires around to detect possible intermittent shorts.

Joel:
One thing you mentioned is not true. The wires have no movement from turning the front wheels. (Well two,, the wires are stranded, not solid) The strut is permanently fixed inboard of the pivot point of the front wheel and absorbs shock through the A frames of the front suspension. The three bolts that hold the actuator also hold the strut to the body of the car. It you take them out while the car is jacked up, the front A-frame/wheel will drop down along with the 3 studs.
The main reason the front actuators (and I don't know why Mitsu calls them that) (wire looms is better) wires break is from working on the car in the engine bay. It's normal to lean your arm on the caps for support and the wires are directly under the cap and the cap is rubber so it will flex in and apply pressure on the wires till eventually they break. That is why I developed my fix with the PVC cap under the actuator covers for protection. If you notice Mitsubishi has ingenoiusly placed a notice in the rubber on the cap.
"Do not place on hands or parts"
Definition for the Japanese to American translation:
"Don't lean on this cap or place parts on this cap because there are vulnerable wires directly under the cap that can get damaged."
90% of the time, the wires break right next to the plug that goes in the top of the strut and 90% of the time is the direct cause of Tour Sport mode flashing.
Not the rears, because they are protected and not really in a work area. Just the fronts. They aren't cheap either.
Capacitors are a possiblity to look at if that is not the case, but the wires should be a first check. Caps will happen more on the older cars from simply age.

01-05-2007, 09:01 PM	#17 (permalink)
JRC Member #140 Aug, 1998 Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Knoxville, TN Drives: 1991 VR4 Trader Rating: (2)	Re: ECS/Tour-Sport mode. Relentless: Yes, there are servos in the struts. What they do is move into position orifices of two different sizes. A larger bore orifice for tour mode and a smaller orifice for sport mode. These orifices are where the hydraulic fluid passes through to absorb the shock. Naturally more fluid through would create a softer ride and less fluid passing would be a harsher ride. Joel pointed out the capacitors that he replaced. I am not saying this can't be the problem, just more often than not it is not the problem. He also pointed out what my website said about the fact that sometimes the continuity reading can be intermittent, so continuity has to be taken while moving the wires around to detect possible intermittent shorts. Joel: One thing you mentioned is not true. The wires have no movement from turning the front wheels. (Well two,, the wires are stranded, not solid) The strut is permanently fixed inboard of the pivot point of the front wheel and absorbs shock through the A frames of the front suspension. The three bolts that hold the actuator also hold the strut to the body of the car. It you take them out while the car is jacked up, the front A-frame/wheel will drop down along with the 3 studs. The main reason the front actuators (and I don't know why Mitsu calls them that) (wire looms is better) wires break is from working on the car in the engine bay. It's normal to lean your arm on the caps for support and the wires are directly under the cap and the cap is rubber so it will flex in and apply pressure on the wires till eventually they break. That is why I developed my fix with the PVC cap under the actuator covers for protection. If you notice Mitsubishi has ingenoiusly placed a notice in the rubber on the cap. "Do not place on hands or parts" Definition for the Japanese to American translation: "Don't lean on this cap or place parts on this cap because there are vulnerable wires directly under the cap that can get damaged." 90% of the time, the wires break right next to the plug that goes in the top of the strut and 90% of the time is the direct cause of Tour Sport mode flashing. Not the rears, because they are protected and not really in a work area. Just the fronts. They aren't cheap either. Capacitors are a possiblity to look at if that is not the case, but the wires should be a first check. Caps will happen more on the older cars from simply age.