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Old 09-11-2006, 12:10 AM   #33 (permalink)
ProwlerGT
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: New Orleans area
Drives: 95 3000GT Base DOHC
Trader Rating: (9)
ProwlerGT is an unknown quantity at this point
Smile ProwlerGT's 3000GT Revival -Brakes, A/C, Vacuum, Radiator fan, Suspension & Steering

Pictures to be posted at some point.

Notes (Removal of Master Cylinder and Inspection):
  1. Cap to reservoir - The cap to the reservoir has always had a crack about 1/3 of the way up the side of it from when I overtightened it one day. I don't believe there was a pressure leak here because I never saw any fluid, but to be safe I'd ordered a new cap and put it on.
  2. Reservoir cap top gasket - This cap was always mangled. I never realized till recently that it was flipped upside down due to the pressure sucking it downward. Installed a new gasket in the proper configuration inside the cap.
  3. Floater - The bottom of the MC reservoir had collected a lot of heavy debris over time even through a recent full bleeding of the system. I don't know if this messes with the fluid level sensor or not, but there was quite a bit of debris caked on the bottom of the floater metal piece (a magnet perhaps?). Cleaned the bottom MC out and the floater with brake fluid.
  4. Reservoir to MC seal for secondary piston assembly - The seal here was slightly warped in that it appeared as though the seal had never been pressed all the way down (or in) as far as it could go. The seal remained warped when I got it out, so I guess this means there possibly may not have been a good seal there EVER SINCE I'VE HAD THE CAR - EVER SINCE THE CAR WAS NEW IN 1995. Still, dunno if this was a problem or not.
  5. Secondary Piston assembly (SPA) - Due to the seal from the reservoir being warped there and the floater having all kinds of gunk stuck to the bottom of it and the SPA being SHORTER (probably just due to years of compression over and over again) than the new one I theorize that the SPA could've been my main problem. Still don't know for sure till I test drive and I'm not putting the car back on jack stands again if what I did doesn't work, so taking the all encompassing approach I'm also going to rebuild all of the calipers.

The bumps along the way: You'd really benefit greatly to have some retaining clip removal/installation tools on hand. To me this is just a hook nose needle nose pliers, but without them it is extremely hard to get the retaining ring in and out of the MC as well as the A/C clutch which I'm working on now. I'm not sure that I'll be able to accomplish taking the A/C clutch off without removing the compressor entirely, but I'm sure going to try. I've practiced on the extra one I have already so I know what to expect under the hood. I will also note that the manual does not show it, but its there - when you get down to the magnetic coil of the A/C clutch assembly there is a 2nd retaining clip holding the coil in place. This 2nd clip is not shown on the service manual for 1994 models and up.

Status: MASTER CYLINDER REBUILT AND REINSTALLED. ONTO the A/C Clutch, then vacuum leak down test, & last but not least for another 2 weeks since I'm leaving town - the rebuild of all the calipers.

Steering issue:
I also noticed that the accordian looking boot on the passenger side of the steering rack is cracked clean in half and there is fluid leak. Is this power steering fluid? or grease? or oil lube? Luckily for me I have a replacement used steering rack supposedly with low mileage, but I hadn't planned on replacing the rack this go round.
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 ProwlerGT's Revival Thread | My Service Log | IAC | SENSORS | Hesitation Tracking List | NO3S.com
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ProwlerGT
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Last edited by ProwlerGT : 11-29-2006 at 06:06 AM.
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