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Old 12-08-2004, 12:15 PM   #80 (permalink)
cbatters
Member: Burned valve club
 
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Stoughton, MA
Drives: 91 Stealth RT/TT
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Default Re: Make your own valve spring compressor for $15

Quote:
Originally Posted by skunkworks
How is it going- No pressure
I have not heard from autozone although they said it should be friday for my seals - Could you email the tool to me? I have 1000mb of mail space. Should be enough space to digitize it.

Ok I want to ask this one more time - maybe I read the answer but I am a little dense - You dropped the vavle into the cylinder when it was not at TDC. Now you said you wished that it had been at TDC - so are you saying that the valve would not have fallen far enough in to get out of the vavle guides? That it could then be pulled back out from above or atleast pushed back out with a hook in the spark plug hole? Sorry for the question again but I just have not gotten a clear answer yet.

sam
You have a sick sense of humor..

HAPPY TO CLARIFY (so no one repeats my bad experiecne)

1. Turn engine until piston is at TDC and cam lobes are vertical (I don't think there is any harm in using the camshaft bolt / timing belt to rotate the engine but the approved method is to use the crankshaft)

2. Use tool to compress spring / remove rocker arms (x4)

3. Tap on valve retainers to loosen valve keepers (use hammer and drift punch / screwdriver - two good taps on each side of the retainer, hard enough to get the spring to move a little)

4. Pressurize cylinder (make sure it is still at TDC and does not rotate)

5. Use tool to compress spring / remove keepers - magnet works great to automatically grab keepers (x4)

6. Attach strong nylon strings to valve stems (x4)

7. Depressurize cylinder

(at this point you can gently press down on each valve and it will come into contact with the piston but would not fall into cylinder even without the strings)

8. Turn the engine clockwise (slowly) allowing the valves to drop far enough into the cylider so the springs can be removed - leave strings attached except for the actual removal/installation of VSS

(In the beginning I pulled all of the valves back up and re-pressurize before removing/installing VSS but it is a waste of time and also more dangerous if the engine rotates while under pressure. Safer to leave the piston in a position where it is not under pressure and would prevent a valve from dropping.)

9. Remove VSS / Remove String / Install VSS / Install String (x4)

10. Use tool to seat VSS (x4)

11. Thread strings through springs and install the springs (x4)

12. Lift valves with springs and rotate engine back to TDC

13. Pressurize and make sure engine does not rotate and is still at TDC

14. Slide retainer down string onto valve / compress spring / remove string / install keepers (x4)

15. Depresurize cylinder / compress spring / install rocker arm


If done this way there is never a point where the valve could drop into the cylinder.



Clint
__________________
1991 Stealth RT/TT - Firestorm Red - 193K Miles / Original Owner
Maint: Castrol 10W40 / Mitsu Filter / Rislone
Replaced: 2X clutch / 3X brakes / 2X front rotors / 2X ABS HU / 1X NGK Plugs / 1X Ball joints / 2X Antenna mast / 1X Active exhaust cable / 1X Windshield / 1X Fuel FIlter / 1X Struts / 1X rear rotors / 1X Front Head / VSS / 1X rear wheel bearings / 1X Transfer case (warranty) / 1x Tie rod end (drivers side)
Overhauled: Starter, IAC, BISS, CV Boots
Upgrade: SilverStar Headlights / ebay "Xenon" Fog Bulbs (no more yellow!)
A/F Gauge / MAP - Electronic Boost Logging / MMCd Data Logger
Pending Projects: Steering Rack
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