Well I just got back from taking it out for a drive (heavy abuse
).
My oil pressure at very hot idle at 1k rpm is now about ~1.6, 1.7 bar, compared with 1/2 bar I was dealing with last week, at ~800 rpm (idiot oil light was flickering). When the oil pressure was that low last week, I immediately dropped the pan. No obstruction to oil pickup, other than a very small amount of permatex gasket shit on the screen, presumably from when i hammered out my oil pan last. Checked rod bearing clearances at that time, and all were well within spec, actually they were very well (#1 & #2 between .001 (.025) and .0015 (.038), and #3, #4, #5, and #6 were all exactly .001 (.025)). Mains werent plastigaged, they still all had the dull coating on them with very very little obvious wear. Thrusts looked great as well. My shortblock is about 1.5 - 2 years old, along with my oil pump. Great oil pressure when cold, which (to me at least anyway) rules out my oil pump. I put 2 tiny shims in my relief spring assembly, which helped oil pressure while cruising, especially when cold. But I was still getting low oil pressure at idle (barely 1 bar), after a spirited run. I use 15W50 Mobil1, so I felt my pressure should be better- my hot idle pressure has been slowly decreasing for approximately the past 6 months.
My oil cooler seems hotter to the touch now after driving it, then it was before.
Chris- you'd be surprised. On the valve itself, the lower portion (that expands and retracts), I could see discoloration on certain spots, like it hasn't been moving in a while. And the valve IS a simple design. A c-clip on top, the upper sealing portion, a spring, and the lower portion that expands and retracts. I removed all that crap, its now just the bolt itself with the main rod (which I may cut off).
Not saying this is everyones problem, but living in a place with 100 degree heat daily, this has helped me a little bit.