This is a quote from the thread "just finished installing 450 CC injectors and takign otu the honeycombs",
http://www.3si.org/portal/forums/sho...threadid=74467 , dated 04-18-2002 08:27 PM.
Quote:
Originally posted by Innovator
I did just purchase a Mustang 4WD dyno for my second shop, and I will post my HP figures after it gets installed. One thing for sure, when I tune a car on my dyno, I will allot enough time on it, to say that I did a proper and thorough job. I will not spend 20 minutes and say, ”see ya”, so to speak.
I don't doubt that you can do a better job on a dyno (which is why I bought one), but you give it enough time, you need the right equipment, and a very powerful fan or fans to keep the intercoolers working normally. Also a wide band o2 sensor is a must, which I used BTW when I tuned my own car. That’s how I came up with 880 to .900. My OE sensors coincide almost exactly, BTW. . I use EGT’s anyway, for a more definitive safety measure. I have always said this was the best way at WOT.
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Removing the honeycombs and using an AFC or AFR to adjust the A/F is not new. You have apparently been using a wideband for over a year from this reply and also have your own dyno. You have certainly changed your adamant position that anything over 0.9 volts is too rich. Maybe we should wait for a few weeks and see what "new" break throughs have been discovered.
Some people have reported problems with removing the honeycombs after a period of time, not only IPO. Who knows for sure if the pressure sensor in the Karmen Vortex Generator does get overloaded by this mod and in fact does cause a failure of the pressure sensor over extended use. And maybe it doesn't happen to every one, but just some percentage. I suspect that the honeycomb parts are expensive to make and if they could have been eliminated, they wouldn't be there.
Jeff