Quote:
Originally posted by Imp Pwr Online
Some get odd results gutting the maf. Thier cars start acting wierd and driveability goes out the window. If it works for you go for it. But it's not a 100% of the time reliable tuning/setup method.
Guess try it for a while and see what happens.
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I still can't think of a single reason why this would cause runability issues"after a while". If the fuel trims are good (closed loop when cruising), there is absolutly no reason why the ECU would get spooked.
If the LTFT is in the window, and the car stay in closed loop when it should be, the ECU is happy, end of story. It should not change.
The only thing I have to add to my original post , is that the correction has to be positive (like +15 at idle )because of the reduced metered air flow at idle. Idle is much more affected by this modification than any other RPM point... I found with my 550cc injectors that other than at idle, Low settings of-15- 20 is perfect...
Low settings are not that critical, as long as you get the car in closed loop. The ECU will do the rest of the work for you while idling, at partial throttle, and cruising. Itf the low settings are to wacked, you will get a CEL that will point you in the right direction ( to go leaner or richer) WOT needs the real fine tuning, but that's not rocket science either. The wideband O is the best way. I think it's one of the most important things you can buy. I've tuned 100's of cars, and I'd be lost without a wideband. I'm just pissed I waited so long to tune my own car with one. Ehh, the customer always come first ....
Save your money that you would spend on a different metering system, mod your current MAF and get a FJO. See what HP you've been leaving on the table by running by having to to rich because your timing was to high.